Quote:
Originally Posted by PaperLab
Yes I asked about Emden paper thickness because while watching your hull coming together so nicely I was wandering what was your impression about working with it. I always felt that, although of very high quality and very effective when building details and superstructures, it made me rather insecure while attempting hull assembly.
I love general idea of putting together entire hull without necessity of laminating parts on thick cardboard. It saves time, is neat and offers very simple work flow but for my taste such made hull is less rigid than I would like.
Perfect solution, in my modeling universe, would be to print internal hull elements on something like .25 mm thick almost bristol type of paper while keeping current stock for all the rest... 
Darius |
I think that one obvious improvement would be to have the entire hull sub-structure laser-cut out of the the thicker card (maybe it's 0.25mm), so that accuracy is ensured. So you assemble it dry and once together you paint pva along the joints. You could even have laser-cut temporary jigs for things like upper hull sides or decks, which you add only to ensure alignment; these would correspond precisely to the printed parts that would eventually be substituted.
Then apply thin strips of normal thickness paper as spreader pieces perpendicular to all the outer edges - this would give a wider seating for glue, and reduce any distortion of the hull sides.
Then apply the hull sides after pre-glueing any significant chine details.
Some tiny datum marks laser-cut into the extreme edges of the sub-structre, with corresponding ones printed on the hull sides might not go amiss either.
If you can reduce builder induced error by having a self-jigging, laser cut sub-structure, then you should be able to design the hull sides to be an easier fit I'd have thought.