1. Glue: I always use ordinary white glue, diluted with ca 20 percent water.
2. Other sites: My own trajectory was to explore the links in the original "
Neato gliders" thread, then the
links given on the Kobe Wings site (Google translated), and then other link pages following from that.
3. Water-proofing: I agree on the need for spraying the finished model. Personally, I will explore another route, namely to pre-proof the sheets by painting them booth sides with Future-type floor polish (the brand available here in Europe is called Pledge), diluted with 50 percent water. I believe this might be the same thing as (diluted) acrylic varnish. Do not try concentrated polish, brush strokes and uneven application will be too visible.
This has to be done with the paper taped to a flat surface. I use masking tape and glass plates. The paper will buckle something terrible soon after painting one surface, but drying out over 24 hours it will return to flat. Same procedure with the back side. So there is a 48 hours waiting with this procedure, but I think it is worth it. Haven't tried it on a model yet, but looking forward to doing so.
What you do not want to do is to varnish a finished flying model with anything containing water. That may be alright on an ordinary built-up model (and I have done so persistently), since the double surfaced structure & framework will keep the model straight. But on a flying model, with all those thin, one-layer surfaces, it is out of the question. Have tried it, and it is no good; it warps surfaces almost beyond salvation.
On the many blessings of floor-polish,
see this site
4. Rubber sling shot: I don't think I have access to the wide-open spaces required...
5. Stick and tissues mag: I'm curious, which one is that, Gil? And yes, please, that would be ever so nice of you...
6. Distance from 22nd floor: Well, Art, that's for me to guess, and you to find out, right? My guess would be at least 600 meters with an estimated L/D factor of ca 10. The problem for you would be to achieve an absolutely straight flight. I deem the possibilities of that as close to nil. Wich isn't a disadvantage, since ordinarily you do wish your model to fly in nice wide circles, right? (Preferably to the left, if you are a right-handed thrower; the launch then will be to the right, slowly straightening up and transforming into a wide left circle without abrupt transitions). And if you feel an urge to try it, please trim out the model by ordinary flights on outdoor ground level first...
Further tips: I've found
this page on model aircraft aerodynamics extremely fruitful. The C.G. calc pages, found at the bottom of it, can be saved as a handy tool, and they even include a variant for canards. There is also a pdf on Canards containing pretty much the information used for the CG calc pages, I believe. In addition, a formula for calculating fin size (of canards only, unfortunately).
Right now, I'm busy trying to apply these learning to the next version of the Quetzalcoatl. Some adjustments necessary compared to my initial guesswork...
Leif