#1
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Tardis Adventures in Layering and Lamanation
Dear Forum Folks:
Here we go with a build report, A lot of things came together to do this project. 1. Around Christmas time I got a can of Scotch77 glue. 2. collected Cerial boxes for 1/2 year. 3. RocketManTan designed his Tardis. 4. My 13 year old Daughter saw the forum pictures over my shoulder and said "thats the Tardis!" not known to me she has been watching Dr. Who on Net Flecks on her mothers tablet. Childern Bonding time. Note As I get older I love Lamanation, Layering and Rivits this has 2 out of three. So away I went I spray glued the 65# cardstock to Save A Lot Rolling Honey Nut Oats Boxes the lamanation came out to 0.76mm in thickness. Next change was to put yellow windows in because Erin the daughter said "Daddy in the last Dr. Who when the Tardis moved the windows went yellow" OK I had some yellow card stock cut out and paste See Pictures. I printed a second copy of the front of the Tardis and cut out the Poster and glues that as just card stock, Cut out the handles and just used two layers of card stock. Problems came when putting the corner posts on if I was computer graphic I would have redone the posts wider however I just used the watercolor pencil to hide the white areas also had to cut a little out of the top corner brackets to fit. The Light on top was done by splitting the cardboard from the light as I ran out of ink in the printer. I really enjoyed doing this project, Some one in another thread said that the tardis done with just card stock was wavy. Well I have nicknamed my daughters tardis "the Solid Brick Outhouse" Hope you like it, MILES Thanks to AirDave for pushing Scotch 77 and to RocketManTan for a great model in 1/8 scale, Also to Retired of now for the next project the Sonic Screwdriver. |
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#2
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Rest of Pictures
Dear Forum folks:
The rest of the pictures. Thanks for looking, MILES |
#3
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Looks good! I like the extra depth added by the cardboard.
__________________
Current builds: Mirco Firefly Serenity 1:96, Saturn V 1:72 ADD victims: WM Columbia 1:100, AXM Atlas V 1:300, OBP Spruce Goose, Uhu02 X-Wing... and many others |
#4
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Came out pretty good. Now all you need are sound effects.
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#5
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My wife asked me to rebuild the one I did for her with extra thickness to emphasize the door panels, as Miles did, and I was planning on trying to add lights and sound, too. Maybe Miles can do it first and tell me how? :D
__________________
Current builds: Mirco Firefly Serenity 1:96, Saturn V 1:72 ADD victims: WM Columbia 1:100, AXM Atlas V 1:300, OBP Spruce Goose, Uhu02 X-Wing... and many others |
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#6
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Dear S & D:
OK Guys I too had the thought of building it again, scale back to 1/2mm Thickness, clear or frosted glass in the door, print top light onto clear stuff, Blinking LED on top, Colored lights inside Tardis, and a solid state thingie to play the Tardis take off theme and then the Dr. Who theme, all operated by a button on a pedestial. O yes have a shelf mount with a segment of a London Street for a backdrop. and a bracket to hold the sonic screwdriver. Thanks, MILES We got to find a Electrical Eng. to show us how to wire it up, Secamitic no pictures yes |
#7
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Get one of those recordable greeting cards and record a TARDIS noise then rip out the sound/recording thingie and put it on the bottom of the model. Then when the TARDIS model is picked up the sound effect will be triggered. As for the lights, yeah, an EE would be helpful there.
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#8
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Okay, it isn't a rivet, but the door handle could be treated like a rivet, and then you would have all three of your goals.
Looks nice
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A fine is a tax when you do wrong. A tax is a fine when you do well. |
#9
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Quote:
I built Rocketman's Tardis as well in much the same manner, but with fewer layers on the outer trim. I made the base and the roof layers completely solid by building up layers of 1mm cardboard. The walls of the main body are tow mm or so thick and reinforced with square cross-section pieces at top, middle and bottom. I also thought about doing one with a working light. For lighting I would make a recess of some sort in the bottom of the base for the batteries and switch, and I'd use round button cell type batteries - smaller and they work just fine for LED's. This Wikipedia article shows the basics of an LED circuit. This page on making led eyes has good reference material and pictures of actual circuits. Just remove one LED and adjust the size of the resistor. A larger resistor value will make the light dimmer, smaller makes it brighter. I'd love to do it but unless my OCD kicks in I have too many other projects already. Gotta go now before I get hooked on the idea. Steve
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My papercraft site: http://stevespaper.com My website: http://stevebondy.ca Currently developing: Normandy SR2 from Mass Effect 2 |
#10
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Dear Steve:
Thanks for the links for LEDs . Now I will have to find where I last put the Sodering Iron, Know where the wood burning stuff is, I have to Sodier my daughters Electric String Bass got a loose wire. so might as well start to learn about LEDs. Thanks, MILES |
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