#11
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Thank you all for your comments. Really appreciate that.
I have already cut the main frame from 1mm thick cardboard (homemade sandwich type cardboard :D - using various types of papers / I did not expect that it will work, I was really surprised). If I find out how to operate this new SLR camera I will upload some photos. This model is based on Games-Workshop model of "Master of the Ravenwing". I have purchased this metal model and have it on my desk (in very nice white box ). More pictures could be find on coolminiornot.com. For example (1) or (2) or if you click on "browse" just type the name of the master ("Sammael") and you will find a lot of pictures. 2 lehcyfer: It was impossible to add additional support into "closed" or "finished" part (the main frame) to increase strenght of its walls. So I have decided that I will start again and learn something new (skeleton made out of 1mm cardstock, like every model from Poland have). Btw. your project of Danube class ship is one of the best I have ever seen, have you already finished it? Looks great and moreover I am more interested in it because I live in Bratislava, which lays on Danube river :D PS: Career in FW? I do not think they will like somebody who is copying their work. But they are great sculptors, love their models, especially Warhound Titan (Mars Pattern) and the brand new Ork Dread. I already own Mk IV Dread, so maybe in the future there will be... |
#12
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I'm glad you like my little spaceship - the work on it stopped because I have to make the inside from scratch - and it isn't as easy as I expected :D I'll finish it though - in due time. I find myself plagued with straw-fire - it flames brightly and hot, but burns out fast...
As for the strengthening the body - I found that gluing the next, laminated layers onto a completed box (even when the body is laminated too) is a pain in the a.s - invariably the walls get concave, there appear empty spaces between body and lamination. Now I glue the laminated parts on before gluing the body together into a box - this way its sides are nice, precise and flat, not concave With the skeleton there is always danger of the showing "ribs" effect - the glue contracting pulls the paper inside and there are visible ribs extruding from concave part surface. I hate it and in small models I prefer to eliminate skeleton altogether and instead laminate. In large models - like this Potiomkin ship I used additional strips of card to widen the area of ribs - preventing the extrusion from happening.
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- Do not try to make a model. Instead only try to realize the truth. - What truth? - There is no model. Then you will see that it's not the model that you make, it is only yourself. |
#13
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Incredible model. I can't wait to see more. Thanks for the reference pictures.
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#14
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Why not release a copy at 40k scale?
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#15
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2 lehcyfer:I am aware of both problems. In this case, I hope, if there are some problems with glueing parts to the main 1mm "hull (or box)", they won't be visible (there are other parts which hide nearly whole "body").
2 ARMORMAN: I am not sure if everything is ok when I scale down whole model to WH40k scale. The problem is that for some parts I am also calculating with the thickness of used paper (not only for 1mm skeleton but also for the rest 160g paper). There is always possibility to print it on 30-40% of original size and put two sheets on one A4 (so you will save paper). But then, some parts will be too small to cut out. |
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#16
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#17
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That looks sweet!
I'm glad that you got the redesign to work. Sean |
#18
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That strong body looks sharp !!! Good work.
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#19
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Very nice... look forward to seeing more.
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#20
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Utterly perfect execution. Looking forward to see it complete.
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