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  #21  
Old 01-04-2010, 01:39 AM
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Ekuth,

Are you thinking of making this "beta" available for download here?
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2010, 08:40 PM
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I really needed a break from the RY so I'm just working on the redesign of parts and working on a few small models. This is the first boredom child of the week.

BTW, does anyone have a copy of the bottom nose piece and drop ship bay addons?

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  #23  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:31 PM
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Gah... that's what I get for not checking on the threads, eh?

I'll dig around my hard drive and see if I can find the nose and dropbay facings... if so I'll upload to the Z download sections for ya, Sebret. :p

Done, and done. Revised parts zip file available in the Z download section. Come 'n get it.
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Last edited by Ekuth; 01-05-2010 at 09:43 PM. Reason: Update post
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  #24  
Old 01-06-2010, 08:11 PM
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Thank you so much Ekuth! I'll Work on those tomorrow and see how they look. Also got side tracked by an Ayanami Rei model but I'm chugging through.
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  #25  
Old 01-11-2010, 09:09 PM
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Just Want to keep the thread alive. Still haven't gotten back into the swing of things just yet. I tried a dry fit of the fore tunnel and I'm starting to think it's just to much of a contrast from the rest of the model. Anyone have any Opinions to offer? All are welcome. Relying on phone cam for now, my apologies.

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  #26  
Old 01-11-2010, 10:21 PM
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Well... three options spring to mind right off the bat.

Before I mention them, though, your gridwork looks good!

Option one:

Print out a spare textured area on lightweight paper and glue wrap strips around your gridwork. This is gonna be near impossible at this point, though.

Option two:

Mix a paint to match. I use acrylics myself for edgecolor on large models. The one I used on my build of the RY was Apple Barrel "Country Grey" #20526... found at your local Wal-Mart.

Option three:

Take the time to cut out the gridwork and assemble. :D
It's a PITA, but worth it in the long run. That's what I did with mine and then strengthened the gridwork by soaking the paper with CA glue (superglue). This method makes it very rigid and durable. The inside is painted with the above mentioned acrylic.

Some shots of my build, this area:

Rodger Young (BETA)-p1110001.jpg

Rodger Young (BETA)-p1110002.jpg

Rodger Young (BETA)-p1110003.jpg

Oh, BTW... you're gonna absolutely HATE me when you get to the Upper Hull. That part is the worst to do of the whole model.

You'll know the part I mean when you get there... apologies in advance.
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  #27  
Old 01-12-2010, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekuth View Post

Oh, BTW... you're gonna absolutely HATE me when you get to the Upper Hull. That part is the worst to do of the whole model.

You'll know the part I mean when you get there... apologies in advance.
Already aware, and working on a plan for it, lol

Thanks for the info
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  #28  
Old 02-22-2010, 07:54 PM
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side pod question

Ok, I've run into a stumble with the side pods. I mated the two halves together and it looks to be about 1/4in short. Any idea how this is really supposed to go together so it fits?
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Rodger Young (BETA)-img_2153.jpg  
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  #29  
Old 02-22-2010, 08:02 PM
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That's... definately not right.

First time I've seen that happen.

Did you change the page scaling mid print? The two parts should mate smoothly.
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  #30  
Old 02-22-2010, 08:40 PM
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Nope, scaling is not an issue as they are both on the same piece of paper. Here is a pic of the 2nd pod with the two parts on top of each other (one flipped over for contrast). According to the ruler, the "body" of the side pod is about 5/16" shorter on the one piece as compared with the other. This came from pages 50 and 51 of "Rodger Young (BETA).pdf". The pages are labeled ry2_050.bmp and 051.bmp.

I do have some of the alternate parts, and Side Pods (Hi Res).pdf and Side Pods (Lo Res).pdf look a lot more reasonable via my MkII eyeballs. I think I shall try those next.
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