Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude

[rbeach84]

Now that I've completed my second (third?) head build, I would apply the following corrections to my previous recommendations:

"Essentially, I suspect the hair part is best built from the bottom-up.ach pair The bottom is the roughly triangular part that stays basically flat with the 'arms' of the octopus then curling around to meet at a seam that runs up the centerline of the back of the head."

UPDATE: This was indeed successful, though the bottom part does not really stay "flat". I found it needs to be more of an inverted wedge shape by depressing the center-leading edge.

"1- Face: set the primary curvature and get the main seam from forehead to chin set so the nose and mouth are formed. The chin will be pretty 'pointy', but leave the jaw and temple/top seams 'open' at this point."

UPDATE:This was also essentially successful, though I went ahead and closed the center forehead seam so the entire face profile was formed. I also retained the gluing tabs and this helps with forming the ridge of the nose. Still had a small gap, but I suspect you'd have to be *very* lucky to avoid that problem.

"2 - Hair/head part. Start with the triangular segment and then work up from there, curling & gluing each subsequent segment 'pair' up to about the 'halfway' point. Then set the remaining curvature to the central 'ring', taking care where it narrows near the 'top'."

UPDATE: This doesn't work - just finish the entire back of the head, working from bottom to top.

"3 - Carefully match the face forehead seams to the corresponding part of the hair ring using the joint 'line' on the hair part as a guide. Keep the 'centerlines' aligned and work top seam, then the side seams of the face, then join the face sides to the hair piece. This will require using a 'curling tool' that can reach inside the head assembly to aid in getting the joints aligned. Do a bit at a time and try and curl the paper to reduce the amount of 'stress' at the joints while the glue sets."

"4 - Complete the rest of the head, 'shingling' up to the top. Then close off the 'jawbone' seams."

UPDATE: This sequence didn't work out; instead, I essentially swapped Step 3 and Step 4. I finished the face seams *except for the 'jaw' seams then attached the face to the 'hair' starting at the top, aligning the 'forehead' seam with the centerline seam in the hair and matching (best I could) the printed guide line to the seam. Then I worked on gluing the face sides to the hair, but found that it would not match the guide lines, rather overlapping. This actually worked out just fine. Once the face was pretty well attached, then I could carefully close off the jaw seams.

"5 - Lastly, there are three more 'hair' parts, which are best formed and *then* attached to the head. One is the "bun" part, which was straight-forward to form as a 'globe' by starting a seam then alternating from one side of the start to the other, until glued all around. Again, the 'curling' tool is indispensable. The remaining two are 'curved sheet' parts that represent the 'bangs'. The larger is applied over the smaller. On both, close the seams that provide the curvature and then attach to the head. I attached the larger section out of alignment with the smaller - both should align to the same 'hair part line' across the top. Do a 'dry fit' and refer to the pictures of the complete model to get the proper 'lay' on the face - both eyes and eyebrows should be visible and almost all of the face-to-head joint should be covered. Placement of the 'bun' assembly is aided by the centerline seam and the fact that there is a slight "point' on the back of the head that can be covered by the bun. However, looking at the cartoon reference image, it appears the bun should be nearly on the top of the head...?"

UPDATE: I placed the smaller 'hair bang' piece (right side part) first, being careful to cover the face-to-hair joint completely. The I aligned the larger piece (after shaping/gluing its tabs) with the smaller piece so the hair "part" was straight. The result was that the right face-to-hair seam was not completely covered. I may detail so it looks like the bottom of the ear is showing.

FURTHER progress - I have completed what I have deemed 'test runs' of the neck, torso, bodice skirt and 3/4 of the leg parts. Initial lessons from this are (in order I recommend):
TORSO: Start with the front first, working the "bust", then the stomach sides and ending with the back. I started with the 'back' and found the small seams for the front difficult to access.
NECK: Simple cylinder. Attaching to the torso straight forward. Still haven't determined how the head will attach, since the neck just inserts into the gap between the face and 'hair'. I expect I'll need to come up with additional part to provide a better 'connection'.
SKIRT: Went together easy. My test 'article' was single sided, but will do my 'smooth' using the dual sided print parts so it is 'green' inside and out.
BODICE: Surprisingly, the 'cups' were not a problem, though there is a small bit of trimming needed where a couple of glue tabs stick past the edge of the part. Rather, the lower bodice, which is essentially a tapered cylinder, proved tricky to attach to the skirt as the taper is not as smooth as I'd like. Perhaps my second attempt will be better.
LEGS: Little fiddly, but go together okay. I just don't like the way the seams look, may try it next using internal glue strips. Certainly would be easier to align with inside glue strips vice tabs. If you go with the tabs, apply the glue to the backside of the seam not to the tab. Also, when the two legs are joined, they splay out more than needed - this is reduced when inserted into the skirt. If I could, I would attach the legs to the skirt before the bodice is attached so the glue tabs can be 'pressed' from the inside to ensure a secure gluing. Trouble is that the posture could be messed up more easily plus the bodice tabs then become less accessible. Guess I'll use my test parts to visualize the correct leg-to-skirt attachment angle on the 'smooth' articles(?)

Lots of challenges with this one, for certain! Cheers!:D

[rbeach84]

Non-modeling tasks have taken precedence and now working on Nobi's BETA build, Tink has gone to the back burner for now. I did manage to find some blue gift ribbon, trimmed it down and then tied it around the base of the bun. Even try and tie a bow knot the size of 'fairy' hands? Gee!
Will post some pix now that I've figured that out...

[airdave]

no disrespect rbeach...but what happened to Tapcho?
and his build of Tinkerbell?
You kinda took over this thread.

[cotlet]

Robert (rbeach84),
Please don't hijack Tapcho's thread. I believe the proper etiquette here would be initiating your own thread. Nobody will mind duplicate subject.

[airdave]

I was more worried about Tapcho's lack of posts...
but...
yes! bad boy rbeach! bad boy!
hijacking is bad bad bad...I would never do that.


lol
cotlet, you are absolutely right though...we are all guilty of thread hijacking once in a while.

[rbeach84]

Sorry, I thought a "hijack" was taking a thread off topic, not contributing to it on-topic (yes, I've seen the boat you've painted, Dave.):p Just wanted to continue to share my parallel 'build' experience with Tapcho perhaps presenting solutions or id'ing pitfalls he could use himself. Sorry if it seems that I've "taken over" but my personal thread 'paradigm' is contributory and not proprietary in nature so I suppose the concept of Tapcho "owning" the thread did not occur to me. After all, the forum label is "Thread/ Thread Starter", so implied 'ownership' (perhaps too rigid a word) wasn't really obvious (I sometimes need 'obvious'...)

Besides, if I was 'stepping on' Tap's toes, I'm sure he would tell me... wouldn't he?

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by rbeach84

Sorry, I thought a "hijack" was taking a thread off topic, not contributing to it on-topic (yes, I've seen the boat you've painted, Dave.):p Just wanted to continue to share my parallel 'build' experience with Tapcho perhaps presenting solutions or id'ing pitfalls he could use himself. Sorry if it seems that I've "taken over" but my personal thread 'paradigm' is contributory and not proprietary in nature so I suppose the concept of Tapcho "owning" the thread did not occur to me. After all, the forum label is "Thread/ Thread Starter", so implied 'ownership' (perhaps too rigid a word) wasn't really obvious (I sometimes need 'obvious'...)

Besides, if I was 'stepping on' Tap's toes, I'm sure he would tell me... wouldn't he?

No worries mate. I get confused on forum etiquette too. Not like forums like this were around when I grew up. No harm done and thanks for taking the comment in the sense it was meant. . I too sometimes need obvious. I would kindly suggest that you don't wait until Taps says you are stepping on his toes - it will be too late then and Dave will have to get his boat out again. I am getting sick of the site of his boat to be honest. :D:

Cheers and good luck with the rest of your build.

Jim

[Tapcho]

Yes I would Robert. I've been reading your notes with great interest and find them quite helpfull too. I've been busy in other fields of life and haven't had any opportunity to continue with my fairy so far but will soon. Thanks Robert for your input and all the rest of you for your consern. Happy modeling to each and everyone. :-)

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by Tapcho

Yes I would Robert. I've been reading your notes with great interest and find them quite helpfull too. I've been busy in other fields of life and haven't had any opportunity to continue with my fairy so far but will soon. Thanks Robert for your input and all the rest of you for your consern. Happy modeling to each and everyone. :-)

Sweet. And we all lived happily ever after and Dave can keep his boat in dry dock. ;D

[rbeach84]

Ah, hugs and kisses all around. And - no, I'm not building a 'fairy' for any particular reason. Not that there is anything wrong with that....!
(for all you Seinfeld fans...)

Now, where did I place that long red cylinder I was working on?
:p