#781
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I use tweezers with NO gripping surface like this one:
Access Denied take the gluing slowly, and brace your hands against your body as you glue parts together to prevent jitters. |
#782
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Hello my friend, thanks, yes, i to have a large selection of tweezers and one is identical to the one you suggest; am thinking of using some very thick card in proportions to the models size to stick the main body side to, and, so, to use the wider continuous surface supplied by doing so to stick the wrap around surface between the two side sections elevating the need to use in the part of the model the tabs, also gives a neater edge to the overall appearance, but, thanks for the tip, i still use PVA to stick the model together, tho`, i do read that some modellers use CA/superglue to stick surfaces to tabs???, would this medium be to absorbent, glue and card as such???, still, many grateful thanks and my very best regards to you...........
Tom........... ( a very good aged modeller ) |
#783
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Could any one clear up a query i have and it is this, can not find on this thread any mention as to what the stared numbers in the respective builds of any of these models is meaning, would i be correct as to think it is needing to be mounted on extra card so as to make these parts thicker and as such, stand out better on the model for over all depth???, as i say, have not found an answer here or about for my query, sorry if this has been raised before, many thanks and regards to all............
Tom....... |
#784
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I take it as a star per extra layer required to be laminated. Certainly makes the models far less flat than just printed detail only.
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"It's all in the reflexes." |
#785
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Hi gotham,
Cheers and thanks mate, that is what i had taken it to be all so, so, two mind must be right then lol , all the best........ Regards...........Tom.. |
#786
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I've built 4 of these awesome models so far, with more in the queue. The star indicates a need to laminate the part to cardboard. I've used both 1mm and 0.5mm cardboard. I've found the models to be very well designed and haven't come across any build problems. In my experience, the parts fit has always been perfect. The only "problem", is that with all the thick laminated parts to cut out, blade life is short. I recommend using cheapo snap-off knives when building these models.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#787
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rockpaperscissor,
Yes, the blades life does get shortened some what and the idea of the snap off blade type knife is one i am thinking of using myself, blades are getting both expensive and, quality is now questionable, even with Xacto blades as i found out when trolling the net for blades and the like, now produced in some far off far east part of the world where quality etc etc is a word and ideal in short supply, or so we read, are me!!!!!!!!.. Very best regards to all......Tom.. PS.. Nice to find some one in my age bracket here about,.....................lol lol...!!! |
#788
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Actually guys, i have a dry honing stone, had the same one now for around 15 years or more i all ways after some few cuts, re do the edge to keep it as razor as one can hope to do so; i would love to find some place on the net that sells a machine for sharpening modelling blades and ditto chisels blades, but, are, alas, not as yet, but, am still looking and hoping for something, here in UK naturally; snap off blade knives here are about £1.00 each so, as you might say a dime a dozen so to speak
Best regards to all........Tom.... |
#789
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I posted some time ago a link to a place that had an x-acto blade sharpening set. I purchased one and found it useful.
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#790
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