The Phantom Manor - Ray Keim

[ghshinn]

Jim,

If we could but see ourselves as others see us. (Sorry, I can't do the dialect.) I suspect Mr. Burns would be gracious.

Garland

[peter taft]

Originally Posted by bagpiper

I just have to share this news with all of you. I just got this message from RAY KEIM - the GREAT MAN HIMSELF no less.

"Jim, this is FANTASTIC! Not only are your tutorials and tips very good, your on-air style is relaxed and fun! I wish everyone who builds my Phantom manor would watch these first! Thank you!"

Wow! This has really made this build something special to me. I am just so pleased that Ray has said these kind words on this thread. It has pleased me more than I can say. Thanks Ray. OK I may be getting over excited but why the heck not.

He also put this up on his face book page:
‎"Bagpiper" Jim, from papermodelers.com is creating a fantastic tutorial on the building of my Phantom Manor paper model! He is combining video and photos of his construction process and it is full of thoughtful tips. If you are planning to build the Phantom Manor, please follow this tutorial! This is just one video ...<Ray links to YouTUBE here>

I just had to share this with everyone here.

Cheers
Jim (Am I smiling too much?)

Hey.... Good on you Jim ! The guy is right.... this is an excellent thread - and very well put together - I'd smile alot too.

[SCEtoAUX]

Yep, it is a good thread on the contruction of the building showing how a little extra effort really pays off in the final product.

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by peter taft

Hey.... Good on you Jim ! The guy is right.... this is an excellent thread - and very well put together - I'd smile alot too.

Originally Posted by SCEtoAUX

Yep, it is a good thread on the contruction of the building showing how a little extra effort really pays off in the final product.

Thanks gents. I appreciate your comments and help along the way.

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

Part 4a at last. The first 3 walls had a lot of windows but today is easy street. Last wall for the main section and it is part 4A. The first image is out of place with this update but I tried the Pitt Pen using a ruler as a guide in order to cover up the orange and white lines. It worked but it feels rushed. You have to move the pen so quickly otherwise the ink will bleed. Anyway thought I would try it - it worked.

OK Wall 4A. Today after the splendid tips both here and in other threads - I went shopping. Rather than just get the excel blades or the x-acto blades I got all 3 and bought a box of Olfa blades as well. I just cant make up my mind what I prefer.

I used a UHU Glue stick to coat the edge with glue rather than trying to use Almer's or Aleene's glue. It did a great job of covering a large area without drying out. Thanks for this tip guys. The 4th and 5th pictures show I have the edge done resting on the former I used to support the paper to give me something firm to hold it against.

I used a box of DVD cases as they were at hand but I will make a better one later. So as to not crush the windows I used my blade boxes to support the former. Put some glue on the edge then using the former glued both parts together. I have never had this go so smoothly before so this is a technique I will be using in future.

Last 3 pictures are just where we are as of today.

I guess the biggest thing I learned today is when trying to glue long edges use a glue stick. Have a former to hold the edge stable while you glue against the paper. And check that each wall is the right way up before gluing it in place. Common sense but check twice and glue once.

I have 2 more videos and will put them up tomorrow.

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

I mention an earlier video that I decided to not use. It was too repetitive. But this is where I leave the build for today. After reviewing the video I will go around all the corners and windows with my pencils as there are still a lot of white edges. It is more visible with the camera that when your looking at the model though.

[Doubting Thomas]

Jim,

Great videos going there. Looks really cold there in MO. Good for model making time!
Didn't think the guys here (on the forum) would be so interested in architectural models. Since they are in technical/engineering, aerospace and military fields and graphic arts.

You might want to put a vertical foamcore foundation on the inside edge/bottom to give the house some more rigidity. Also a base with outside decorations might be to
your liking too. (ie: spooky trees, tombstones, etc.)

Jefferey

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by SJPONeill

Looking great, Jim...and some great tips here...adding a little 3D has such a great effect!!!

Hey! Thanks Simon. I am amazed myself at how this is all coming together. And adding the windows has made this model come alive that's for sure.

All the best for 2011

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by Doubting Thomas

Jim,

Great videos going there. Looks really cold there in MO. Good for model making time!
Didn't think the guys here (on the forum) would be so interested in architectural models. Since they are in technical/engineering, aerospace and military fields and graphic arts.

You might want to put a vertical foamcore foundation on the inside edge/bottom to give the house some more rigidity. Also a base with outside decorations might be to
your liking too. (ie: spooky trees, tombstones, etc.)

Jefferey

And let's not forget the understanding wife too. lol. I love the spooky stuff so that's how I ended up finding Ray Keim's work. I think that if it involves paper there will be someone interested in it. lol

Nice idea about the foamcore too. Don't have any but sounds like yet another shopping trip real soon.

As always thanks for your support and ideas.

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

Did you know that you can create a setting in your printer settings and save it? If you didn't then this is a great time saver. I have a setting and saved it as Card Models. It uses best quality and has all the settings I use for card modeling. Anyhoo just thought I would mention this.

Part 5A and 6A are the top and bottom of the main building. For this I used my 110lb card as I it tends to sit idle in the drawer. It is a great card but it is too heavy for some smaller parts if you need to put folds in place. But it is a nice weight of card for hidden parts such as this. Points to remember are that both parts use valley folds so mark them with pin holes and score away on the other side to get your fold marks.

Remember to cut the corner out in image 4 and 5. I also cut all the smaller cuts first then go for the long cuts. That way on the small cuts the paper has a lot of support from the remaining card and your not trying to cut a piece without any support. Make sense?

One thing I highly recommend is to do a dry fit on these parts. Ray has done a fantastic job on the fit and if you happen to make it even slightly too big it will be a struggle to get it in. I had to cut the corners of the top piece to get it in place. I suggest you score the lines on the inside of the orange dotted line. It will make the pieces just a fraction smaller but then the edges are folded it will fit snug but not too tight - which is what happened to me as the folds ended up on the wrong side of the line. Using the thicker card also added to the extra thickness of the fold line.

I put up the measuring cube so you could see the size of the clothes pegs. They are tiny and were bought in a scrap book shop. They work great for holding long edges like this in place while I mess around and fiddle with the peice. I tried to use liquid glue but managed to make the pieces soggy. I just wanted to try a different glue on the long edges. I will be going back to the glue stick again. I just wanted to have a comparison and after a couple of goes with both liquid glue and glue sticks - the glue sticks are coming out way ahead. For long edges at least. Have not tried them on small pieces but will try that next.