Water Mill - A Boat Mill Variant! - Page 5

**Kevin WS** · #41 06-25-2016, 10:38 AM

So, I carted all my modelling stuff I needed successfully into the back of beyond and managed to get modelling!

The next part of the build was the miller's roof, after which the house could then be assembled.

Picture 1 - The parts for the roof.

At "6 o'clock" you will see the roofs for the windows on the top of the roof. There are two small "hanging" tabs (X) along the front edge of the roofs. I did not have the foggiest idea how these applied in the build but just ploughed on any way!

Picture 2 - It terms of assembly the windows went in first from the inside. This surprisingly turned out to be one of the harder steps of the model so far!

Picture 3 - A few points of interest here.

Firstly I have shown how I use a "dental" spatula to ensure the tabs on the inside of the roof are firmly held when the glue dries. A few seconds only, as I use very little white glue.

Secondly you will note I have pre-coloured all the edges and boundaries that are white - including along the eaves. The eaves at the bottom of the picture are the widest - they go above the landing in the first floor. They also are where the 8 extra beams will go.

Something important to note if you are building the same model and are using this thread to assist you, is that at this stage I discovered the function of the two "hanging" tabs (X) mentioned in Picture 1 above.

These tabs should be folded straight back and glued to the underside of the roof.

In the current picture you will also see that I have folded the tabs attached to the windows in when attaching the windows. These now need to be reversed 180% before you attach the roof. If the part is coloured DO NOT glue anything to it! When turned out, these pieces key into the "hanging" pieces (X) that were folded back just now. Hope this is clear, but it will be easier to understand when you have the pieces in hand

Picture 4 - The roof virtually assembled. You will notice that I attached the windows and small roofs BEFORE assembling the actual roof - this was so I could hold everything firmly on a flat surface so the parts could dry decently. As per Picture 2 above.

Following roof assembly, I then cut out the holes two for the mill wheel axle in the house, and then glued the two ends of the square that makes up the house together. The roof was then added.

Picture 5 - The 8 little roof beams in place. They add greatly to the models appearance, so don't be tempted to skip them! Note the hole for the mill wheel axle.

Pictures 6, 7 and 8 - These show the four sides of the building travelling anticlockwise.

Note that there are axle holes on both sides of the building - as the axle goes right through!

The stairs for the landing are missing in the last picture - I will attached these after the house has been mounted on the deck. This will assist with the stairs alignment.

**Kevin WS** · #42 06-25-2016, 10:43 AM

Miles - thanks for your comment on the photo....(http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/542187-post39.html).

I think you could well be right.

I did take quite a few pics (some 400 plus) and will extract some of the details in this area for you and put them in a later post for your further thoughts and input.............

**Kevin WS** · #43 07-03-2016, 12:04 PM

Next step - attaching the deck.

Picture 1 - I printed this model on 120 grm paper. While this is perfect for the small parts, it is a bit flexible for large parts. So, i have cut out two parts to reinforce the deck.

This picture shows the two extra parts I made. Why two? Well, when the building is fixed to the deck, the tabs from the building sit proud and using white glue as I do, there is a danger that the deck will "mould" around the tabs, causing an indentation.

So, the first shape fits around the tabs, and allows the bottom shape to fit flush on the bottom of the deck all round. See Picture 3.

Picture 2 - The Mill House stuck on.

Picture 3 - This shows the underside, with the "protruding" tabs and the first part ready to go on.

Picture 4 - First part on, underside now nice and flush and ready for the second reinforcing piece.

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I have been explaining this build in detail as I am trying to pass on some of my techniques, tips and tricks as I go along. Hopefully this is of interest!

Next step will building the boat around the Mill House and deck - I need to fill the space between the deck and the hull. Thinking about how to do this - probably toilet paper moistened with glue!

it is the coldest time of the year here now. Minus 3 with no double glazing or central heating (which does not exist in this country), so time to pack up now!

**southwestforests** · #44 07-03-2016, 12:09 PM

She's getting there!
Played with conversion function from Google, -3 C = 26.6 F
Yes, that's a little on the chilly side.

**whulsey** · #45 07-03-2016, 03:03 PM

Will agree with Miles, my first thought on seeing the setup was to run a belt. It doesn't look heavy enough to be any type of flywheel or balance wheel.

**Kevin WS** · #46 07-03-2016, 04:00 PM

Miles, Whulsey, you are both I am certain dead right here.

I had a quick look at the pics of the wheel the other night and it does very much resemble a PTO of sorts.

As soon as I get time I'll convert some of these pics so I can post them here to give you chaps a more sensible view.

**Kevin WS** · #47 07-04-2016, 11:23 AM

Miles, Whulsey - here a few more pics of the "skinny" wheel alluded to earlier.

Of interest are a couple of things.

Firstly the gearing is fairly high (see Picture 3), so this wheel would have spun really fast!

Secondly, it almost seems that the wheel was permanently coupled, unless something is missing. There appears to be no mechanism to declutch it, short of trying to pull the wheel out along the shaft. The bearings however in Pictures 2 and 3 look fixed.

If the shaft is free however to move out, how would it be kept in place when spinning (at speed) as the mechanics involved would have tended to force it out?

Lastly a high speed wheel would be used for what? Surely too fast for a saw? Or do saw blades run at speed? I am sure they don't!

**southwestforests** · #48 07-04-2016, 11:37 AM

Playing in Google with name on part, Fraser Arbroath, got this among other things,

Quote:

In 1832, Douglas Fraser of Arbroath established a business specialising in the manufacture of flax and canvas. By the 1870s steam was becoming the predominant means of propelling ships at sea and Douglas Fraser & Sons, as the firm was now known, found their business in serious decline and the rest of the century saw Douglas Fraser & Sons heavily in debt. In 1881 Norman Fraser designed and patented a braiding machine which proved to be an advance on what was currently available in the textile industry. The development of this machine led to greater concentration on machine manufacturing, a step which ultimately was to be the salvation of the company: an engineering works was established during the 1890s.

gb254-ms42 - Giddings & Lewis-Fraser Ltd - Archives Hub

**whulsey** · #49 07-04-2016, 07:49 PM

Found the announcement of patent but no drawing of how it was driven. Found some modern ones driven by electric motors at up to 330rpm.

**JohnM** · #50 07-04-2016, 08:06 PM

Many years ago now back in the 50s, we often used to watch the East Anglian steam plowing and threshing competitions. Much of the machinery was driven by a flax belt around the steam engine's flywheel. Drive, or no drive was achieved simply by tensioning the belt. ie: With no tension the belt just slipped on the driven wheel ... that's why the surface is smooth. I strongly suspect a similar arrangement was used with this waterwheel power take off.