P-51D Mustang (A.Halinski, 5/2005, 1:33) built

[mgolovanov]

Hello all

I have just posted final images of North American P-51D Mustang (A.Halinski, 5/2005, 1:33) completed recently:

Miscellaneous WWII single-engine fighters - 1:32, 1:33 - Paper Modelers Gallery (http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=554)

Build log / detailed pictures can be found at my site:

www.mgolovanov.houa.org/models/p51d.html (http://www.mgolovanov.houa.org/models/p51d.html)

http://www.mgolovanov.houa.org/images/p51d/ready0_th.jpg (http://www.mgolovanov.houa.org/images/p51d/ready0.jpg)

[Foxbat]

As always, perfect build, Mikhail
I'm always feel inspired when I see your aircrafts

Congratulations!

[gregbal]

Truly exceptional work. Congratulations.

[dansls1]

Gorgeous model - thanks for sharing ;)

[eatcrow2]

A beautiful looking model!!!!!

[kenlwest]

Wow! This is inspiring!

One of the techniques I have seen (including yours) is to spoon the surfaces from the inside so that the paper forms just like metal. To me, perfection of this technique is the holy grail of paper modeling - it appears you have set the bar pretty high for it.

You know you have been successful when people have to look hard to see that it isn't plastic!

VERY NICE!

Ken

[GreMir]

Mikhail,
You are one of the true masters of our hobby.
Outstanding model.

[pahorace]

Impressive stuff from the masters.
(sometimes are inclined to believe that aliens exist):D:D

Orazio

[willygoat]

That is a beautiful Mustang Mikhail. You honestly can't tell that it's paper :D

[ccoyle]

Wow! Beautiful model! Truly inspirational.

[birder]

Wow, that is a beautiful build, Mikhail!!! Your work will also inspire us to strive for a higher standard!(as it has already!) Congratulations on completeing this.:)

[birder]

Mikhail,I can hardly see any joint seams, have you changed the method to do this?

[cMags]

That is hands-down the most impressive thing I've seen on this forum to date. I studied it closely for any indication that it might be paper, but none. It has more detail than any plastic model I've ever seen too. Looks like a perfect showroom model of the real thing.

[billy.leliveld]

And you want us all to believe that it is made of paper? :D
Asolute top! Next POW!!

[Yu Gyokubun]

Today is the day I have waited for. Paper model outstripped plastic model!!! I look forward to your next building report

[Wily]

I add my amazement...thank you for posting. Brilliant workmanship.

wily
WWII Fighter Plane Profiles (http://www.ww2fighters.blogspot.com)

[mgolovanov]

Gentlemen, thanks for the kind words. This outstanding Halinski's kit definitely deserved adequate realization

Mikhail,I can hardly see any joint seams, have you changed the method to do this?

No, I did not change the way of joint seams implementation, and I use the most standard method without any additions

The method is as the following

1. Printed/purchased sheets get covered with acrylic varnish. Sheets of usual model card (which is dense) get covered plentifully so that the paper absorbs a significant amount of varhish. Sheets printed on a special non-absorbing paper or by special paints like this Mustang get covered economically - just to cover the surface

The covering strengthens the paper - it does not become shaggy at cutting and processing, and the most important thing - it does not absorb acrylic paint when I tint edges. It is very important. If acrylic paint casually gets where it is not needed on out-of-box paper, it's hard to remove it because it gets instantly absorbed by such paper. When the paper is covered, however, the paint is not absorbed by it and just lays over - and this liquid layer is easy for erasing with a finger. So no traces where not appropriate

2. Cut edges get prepared as follows:

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/4936/21792993.th.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV14Gqbr)

specifically, I remove remains of black boundary lines (I cut always strictly by the middle of these lines) and make edges semi-rounded

3. I then tint edges with acrylic paint using wooden stick and fingers (and a towel!). I plentifully put paint on the edge with a stick and immediately remove excess paint with a finger. Specifically I try to completely remove extra paint from the face surface (it's easy - this surface is covered with acrylic), and to leave only necessary amount of paint on the edge. Then I smooth the semi-dried up edge - again with a finger. I wipe fingers with a towel, and upon the end of work I wash them with soap

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8233/21648461.th.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV14GxFS)

The results are edges and joints still visible but made accurately

As you see from my shots posted to the gallery, joint seams are still visible - but only when you try to recognize them specifically. I reckon this is sufficient for a decently looking model

[birder]

Mikhail, thank you for that detailed description, it is helpful although it is your skill that allows for the results you show, clearly! This is one of the most helpful descriptions of treating the edges of joints that I have read, I think possible could be saved as a tutorial? :):):)The acrylic paint does make a real difference, does it also stiffen the edge when dry, although may not be as easy to glue?

Seeker of improved skills, or how to get a model half as good as Mikhail or Yu....(Johnny, Bruce, and in the words of Don their ilk...:):))