SIAI Marchetti S.79 "Sparrow Hawk"

[pahorace]

Hello everyone,
it's a long time since my last job but here my last effort.
After the Macchi-Castoldi MC-200 [http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/aviation/1527-mc200-marek.html] (http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/aviation/1527-mc200-marek.html%5D), now the second Italian airplane:

The SIAI Marchetti S.79 "sparrow hawk" known as "the Hunchback".
Designed by Roman Vassilyev "der Kampfflieger" and sold by Dewayne.
6 + 1/2 pages of parts and 1 + 1/2 for instructions; 1/48 scale.

The model is a SM-79 of 10a Squadriglia, 28° Gruppo, 8° Stormo. The unit insignia was inspired by the coverage name "chicken" ("Gallina" in italian) used in Spain (Palma de Mallorca November 1937) by the squadron commander Cap. Tullio di Prato.

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The project is good and for me worth it to build this aircraft.
I just made some small changes and added some small part is not provided by the kit.

It's my second model of aircraft in absolute, before these I had not never constructed models of airplane is in paper that in plastic, therefore is possible to notice some imperfection (certainly caused, in part, by my lack of experience in card-model) but will try to eliminate with the experience and with your help.

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Orazio

[Alcides]

I think you build a very nice model. Looks very good. I like the Italian birds from this period.

[jagolden01]

Beautiful build. Nice work - hard to believe it's only your second card model airplane!
Your build is clean even in the difficult areas. The hump looks like a hard piece to properly form, much less glue up.
he engine nacelles fit tight to the wings without pinching them.

Very nice photos also. I'll use these for reference if I ever get to build this. I also bought it from DeWayne but have yet to start it.
The plane is uncommon and it's a nice change from the "typical" planes.
Very unusual. The coloration and weathering are just right.

Thanks for sharing your work. Will look forward to more as your time permits!

[dansls1]

Very nice plane!

[Golden Bear]

Nice work Orazio! I have a 1:33 model of this plane but haven't built it yet.


Carl

[lehcyfer]

Pretty airplane, good build. You have nothing to worry about except minor stuff which will come along with more practice. The paper seems pretty thick - or does it look so because of shiny varnish?

[Don Boose]

I always liked the look of the SM-79 and your model is outstanding, Orazio!

I have had an affection for the SM-79, the MC-200, and several other Regia Aeronautica aircraft, including the Breda Ba-65, ever since my childhood when I had a WWII-era book (still in my library, although rather battered) with vivid paintings of aircraft. The MC-200 with the lumpy rocker arm covers on the cowling and the vivid camouflage covers, the SM-79 with its pugnacious appearance (and the machine gun protruding from the hump), and the Ba-65 with the cockpit set so far forward, all made a big impression on me.

Thank you for sharing all these excellent photographs of your superb model. I look forward to many more of these beautiful aircraft coming from the Società Anonima Costruzioni Aeronautiche Orazio.

Don

[Barry]

Excellent building job

[cgutzmer]

Great work! Make sure Roman sees it so he can use the pics on his site :)
Chris

[pahorace]

Thank you all for your kind words of appreciation.
I am glad that is enjoyed this leads me to continue and do even better.

When I started this model (I will not say when because I am ashamed :o), I thought of ending soon.
But I realized almost immediately that the matter was complex:

1) the canopy with that strange hump and the myriad parts of the Cockpit were a serious affair;
2) the project does not provide connecting strips even double former for the union of the Chambers;

I made a table with all the connecting strips and a table with former doubles.
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By adopting a method hybrid of joining the sections, with connecting strip or former, as needed.
But the worst obstacle was the realization of the Cockpit made more difficult by the addition of the transparencies.
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Cgutzmer
Great work! Make sure Roman sees it so he can use the pics on his site :)
Chris Chris,
I do not think he will.
Some time ago I asked a Roman because it did not sell this model.
He said to me that he had sold the rights.

Orazio

[Don Boose]

Orazio -- Many thanks for this additional information about how you built this model and the photos, which are very helpful for visualizing your modifications. Don

[redhorse]

You did a great job on this plane. Such an interesting subject too, I love Italian planes.

[f18fixer]

I don't know what it is about that aircraft, I think its those big radial engines up front, but it just looks cool, You did a wonderful job on the kit, I didn't even know that aircraft was available...Now I have to get one...My wallet says thanks alot....LOL

Great job...Craig Beal

[pahorace]

Thanks Jim, try to provide more news and more pics to explain the construction of the model.
Thanks f18fixer, you can find this plane here: WWII (http://www.teuton.org/dbarnett/wwii.htm)

The plane is sold in three liveries (I bought all three) but I chose this livery (Spanish Civil War) because it represents the golden era of S.79 planes.
At that time was one of the bombers fastest. Russian fighter planes could not reach it.
But already in 1940 with the appearance of the Spitfire and Hurricane aircraft had already passed.

I used semigloss photo paper 160 g/sqm then treated with acrylic varnish for the parts; paper 100 g/sqm or 80 g/sqm for connecting strip and guns; cartonboard from Kellogs Corn Flakes for the former.

I started construction with shocking mistakes!

Before I built the skeleton and then I tried to play with the skin. Result:
these misalignments and distortions (I say this for all beginners like me).
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I threw it all away and I began again.

I try to paste the skin on the edge of part 38 (the plane floor) and then adjusting the former.
Everything seems to work.
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Continuous with the Cockpit Part 30, which will be reinforced with former derived from the table double-former (to support the wings and the constant handling future) and the nose of the plane.
Here I make use of double former and connecting strip.
Unfortunately, the windshield (you see) will over time a kind of aging, caused by cyanoacrylate glue used.
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Orazio

[pahorace]

After that I made the interior, very easy to do.
The interior can not be entered until you paste the wings.
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I went to the construction of knot engines and ogives.
It was the first head to the petals that did and I thought about using a light car bulb with adequate measure.
The glass of the lamp does not stick to the glue and allows me to shape the petals effectively.
I also used a strip of paper rolled cylinder as referring to the teachings of Gil (now do not remember where).
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Then I continued with housing Landing gear and I have applied the transparent parts to small and thin pieces of various windows.
For this I used fragments of Polypropylene transparent thin very flexible but difficult to manage.
For gluing I used cyanoacrylate glue after cleaning with ethyl alcohol to its surface to be bonded.
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Then I built the wings, creating a skeleton reinforced with the addition of teams not in the kit.
The curvature of the skin of the wings I do by hand, sliding on the edge of my table from the work (keeping your hands with the two ends and taking care to make a passage and homogeneous without folding the paper).
Is a technique I've seen in various directions and by good results.
For the wings I used the connecting strip created by me in a special table.
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After I built the engine supports.
Of course, as you can see, even here I have made use of small connecting strip.
And doing a lot of evidence before pasting.
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At this point I had all these elements:
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So far I have not assembled but nothing I have done several tests for assembling realize how all the elements match, where made, if possible, small changes and where disguise any inconsistencies.
Everything in the end is carefully placed in boxes classifiers.
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Orazio

[pahorace]

It gives me the time of the group plans to tail.
Even here use connectig strip.
The black plate steel is used to contain the fall of glue.
On the last photo, I apply on the Rudder, a form that is in my table "Connecting strip" to give volume to the structure.
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Here is the finished work.
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Orazio

[pahorace]

Now is the time of Tailplane end Elevators
Here I apply the micro loops with brass wire from 0.25 mm to attack after the wires supporters.
Of course I have seen hundreds of pictures from the web and magazines and also designs Scalet at 1:48 help me in the assembly.
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It's time of propellers.
But this is another adventure to tell later if interested.

Orazio

[lehcyfer]

Very nice, clean and precise build. Detailed step by step progress.

That's what I look for in modeler's build threads.

Keep posting in such manner Orazio and I'll be always reading your posts with interest.

And I'll ask again - Your model looks "panzer"-like, in that the paper seems very thick. I don't know if it's really that thick or the shiny surface makes it look so. Did you varnished the paper before cutting the parts out?

EDIT: Where my eyes are :)
I used semigloss photo paper 160 g/sqm then treated with acrylic varnish

I advice you to paint finished model with a matt varnish - too much shine takes attention away from the model and directs it on the surface of paper from which the model is made.

[Don Boose]

These detailed photos and explanation are of exceptional value, Orazio. It is always a great pleasure to see your models under construction and to see the neat and orderly way in which you organize and display the parts.

Don

[SJPONeill]

A great build of one of my favourite aircraft (ever since butchering the Airfix one 35 years ago!)...this is on my wishlist for when I finish some other projects...

[pahorace]

Thanks Don, SJP...,
for the kind comments.
Try to continue the explanation of my efforts. Trying, if possible, to say more.


.... cut .... cut

I advice you to paint finished model with a matt varnish - too much shine takes attention away from the model and directs it on the surface of paper from which the model is made.

Thanks Lehcyfer,
for your words of appreciation of the thread.
Without the other will follow your advice for the use of a matt varnish.
I like to experiment with other possibilities.
I have to find a suitable matt varnish.
Then I will do the tests on the treated sheets that I have left to explore the result.

Orazio

[ju52man]

WOW! I've been waitaing for this. i've got it from dbarnetts and haven't built it yet

[lehcyfer]

I found Pactra A48 Clear Matt to be an excellent choice for a matt finish. It needs to be mixed very well before applying.

[pahorace]

Hi Ju52Man,
I said earlier that this model is here:
WWII (http://www.teuton.org/dbarnett/wwii.htm)
fifth row from the top of the page, under the Macchi MC.200.

Thanks lehcyfer,
try this Pactra A48 Clear Matt, I hope to find it.

Orazio

[Golden Bear]

Hey, Orazio, there is a Folgore down the page a little and I'm certain there is a G-50 in there somewhere also...:)

Carl

[pahorace]

Looking up the propellers of the kit, you notice that are designed in one piece, with the blades arranged 120° apart.
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Do not know how to assemble Roman wished. The instructions (on the first page instructions), are not much help.
I had to give body, stability, and tilt to the blade and then had to solve the problem.
I studied for some time, then I remembered that somewhere I saw a thread on this topic.
Yes! in Fiddlers Green Forum; airportkid's thread:

Fiddlers Green :: View topic - Propellor Construction - Hub Collars (No. 5 in sequence) (http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2877)
Fiddlers Green :: View topic - Propellor Construction - Hub Flanges (No. 4 in sequence) (http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2876)
Fiddlers Green :: View topic - Propellor Construction Cont'd - The Spider (No. 3 in seq.) (http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2875)
Fiddlers Green :: View topic - Propellor Construction Instruction (No. 2 in sequence) (http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2874)
Thread very instructive, in my opinion.

To do this I created a design (but not told that we must achieve it with your computer) that contained all the parts needed to assemble the propeller in the figure bordered by red.
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The sequence of construction that I have taken is this:
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To bend the blade I use a tool with conical appendix (this is my tool for scoring) on a sponge rather hard (may be a rubber to erase) in this way the card is well supported throughout its length and does not bend excessively.
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then glue the parts
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in the end we get this kit propeller
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assembled in this way
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The two halves of the crown of accommodation blade (included with the right inclinations) are filled with glue, while a shaped wire from 0.8 mm, length 35 / 40 mm is placed inside the loop with the head in advance filled with glue.
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and this is the end result
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Really is not over yet.
The blades of the propeller at the rear (the side that looks at the pilots) were usually painted black with a strip of aluminum vertical color in the center of the blade.
I suppose, but I will leave to the experts evaluation, which served as protection from glare for pilots, in particular inclinations taken by airplane.
I helped with micro masking obtained by cutting small strips of paper "Metylan" (adhesive masking).
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Next wheels and landing gear.

Orazio

[pahorace]

Carl,
I am sorry it is not a G.50.
There is a beautiful cross-section of G.55 Centauro and profiles in my collection of magazines. :)

Orazio

[Golden Bear]

Oh, yeah!! The Centauro is very nice.

[Don Boose]

The propellor tutorial is outstanding, Orazio.

I wish I could acquire your patience and the steadiness of your hands.

I thought there was a G.50 among the "DeWayne" models, too, Carl (another man of infinite skill, patience, and steadiness of hand), but apparently not.

Don

[Golden Bear]

I have a printed D-50 somewhere areound here at 1:50 in a similar format so I thought that there might be a downloadable version also.

[pahorace]

Thanks Don,
but as I have said, of the times, the photos trick! Several troubles I arrange them also.
Passed Much time (not to read) but to study the threads of Masters as Carl (Golden Bear) and in this Forum there are many, and then to make of the tests.
...
I do not know that Dewayne has in display window a G.50 but it would have to ask he. I can ask, if I succeed to contact it.
Some time makes I has bought from DeWayne a -C.V. PBY-5 " Catalina" 1/50 by Marek- that it did not have in display window but that I have asked to it.

Carl,
the same one as I have said to Don.
I have only a Fiat G-55 1/48 scale bought last year by Nobi.

However the next one I would want to construct an airplane not Italian.

Orazio

[pahorace]

Before speaking of wheels and landing gear, let me say that I use these three types of glue products from Henkel:

1 - Transparent Glue (with solvent) very strong and as fast drying;

2 - White Glue vinyl (without solvents) is fast enough it has good speed drying. Use this glue for plasticize parts of the

model, such as propellers I brush it with white glue that drying becomes totally invisible and makes compact the part.
Also use this glue to unite the various circles of Engine Cowling.
One flaw: the brush on paper soften the grain of the paper. It must then wait for the drying to manipulate the part.

3 - Glue Cyanoacrylate = Dynamite (TNT). Handle with care! glue is terrible but necessary for some things.
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Let the wheels.

For this type of wheels, there is a thread of a good modeler, Gil or +Gil (as he was signing):

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/tutorials/1581-aircraft-tire-tutorial.html

- I imagine Mr. Gil as a goblin of the fantastic laboratory Papà Christmas. Every now and then develop a test and then gives us all of the Forum. Thanks always Gil.-

How to start the work?
everything is explained very well in the thread.
I for my part I just cloning Gil, with a doubtful result.:)
Obviously I did several tests.
To model the wheels I used my fingers a lot outside and white glue inside the circle. A disk of cardboard (in Kit) placed inside shape of the wheel. I added a circle with a small central hole (not with large central hole) for mounting the wheel on my Dremel to better shape.
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when I had enough I ended up putting these wheels.
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Fork of the Landing gear is very simple to achieve.
Two pipes are joined by a piece "X".
The small rectangular strip at the top with two circles is the bearing bracket the range of landing gear (say it is the support of the whole airplane) for this I advice to use the proper card stock from 0.8 / 1 mm. (see pic. 3)
At the joint center to "X" put a disc of 2 mm diameter, on one side and other, to simulate a weld.
On a wire to 0.8 mm shaped to distance of the axes of the fork is mounted the wheel.
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The hydraulic actuators withdrawal wheel is cut, colored aluminum and brushed fully with White Glue vinyl.
A small piece of galvanized wire (very flexible) from 0.25 mm suitably shaped and applied on fork with cyanoacrylate glue simulates a pipe for hydraulic brakes.
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Orazio

[Don Boose]

Excellent wheels and undercarriages.

It's good to see someone applying Gil's techniques.

Don

[lehcyfer]

It must then wait for the drying to manipulate the part.

Nowadays I can't imagine making models without my little touristic hairdryer. It tremendously speeds the build process - the glue is set within tens of seconds, the part is solidly dry and hard, ready for gluing another part without fear that some joints will come apart. It cuts the time of build at the very least to a quarter of former time needed. I strongly recommend it for every modeller.

[Golden Bear]

For standard wheels/tires I use a simpler approach than Gil's which, curiously, is received with scorn by most modelers. But, it works for me and I will share it again.

Laminate up the wheel (card) until it is the correct thickness or a bit over. Get out your small sanding block and start sanding down the edges, while rotating the piece. Keep sanding until it looks like the correct shape for a wheel! Then paint it. Voilà! No power tools, just a bit of crafting.


Carl

[dansls1]

I followed your advise on the MM Shoki build and was pleasantly surprised with the results Carl, I am considering this technique again for the Kikka and may default it as the standard going forward ;)

Your tires and gear are looking great Orazio!

[pahorace]

Don and all,
thanks for your interest and support.
Also this thread is a great effort for me (are beginner also in this):D:D

Lehcyfer,
thanks for the tip, I have a gun electric dryer.
White vinyl Glue (No. 2 in pic) has an extraordinary rate of drying (about some tens of minutes) but for that job that I have indicated (brushwork coating and plasticize) I do not need to have a fast drying, I certainly many other things to do and after a few hour if I want I can handle that part.
When I use the Transparent Glue (with solvent) I have to turn off the fan in my room working (is not a joke ;-))


Carl and Dan,
I do not say that this is the way forward.
The wheel of this model has a diameter of about 22/23 mm and a thickness of 8 mm which means putting together n.10 diskette by 0.8 mm or n.8 by 1 mm thick.
I did the test, was far too voluminous to be processed (the spindle of my Dremel not had that long).
Not because it could not be done but at this point: why not experiment with the technique of Gil (which I think is born precisely in this spirit).

For wheel smaller and more subtle of these, I also prefer to support more disks.

Orazio

[pahorace]

To conclude the argument wheels and landing gear: these are the doors of the landing gear, the design of the holes for lightening was added by me.
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One last little thing to say about the tail wheel.
It consists of three disks from a cardboard and paste between them.
It's very simple to assemble.
I used my Dremel to shape, a few seconds of time, then painted with color (I use for tires: Black + Gray + blue. The compound of the tires is not exactly black) then covered with vinyl White Glue.
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The pieces that I still have to assemble are the exhaust pipe which really do not immediately understand how to assemble.
But looking good on the design of instruction, at the end can decrypt a sequence of assembly.
For my part I have adopted this system:
- Parts 2 and 3 are glued together along a pipe and in line;
- Parts 1, 4, and 5 are angular, glued (at bridge) individually, autonomously, above the Engine Cowling.

Each engine cowling has a different place and we must find the left, center and right.
The right engine has the exhaust pipe on the right and the center engine and the left have the exhaust pipe on the left.
I hope that I explained clearly here but the pics below are of help and also the photos of the plane at the beginning of this thread.
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The last part is to assemble the gondola pointer
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At this point I have all the components of the aircraft, assembled.
It is now to assemble, with one another, to see the birth of the model.
This is another adventure that will soon tell.

I thank the Friends who have had the will to follow this thread, I hope I have not bored them.
Unfortunately I can not mount a further thread for the next 15 days because I go on holiday with my lovely wife.
And back to day 13 August.

Regards

Orazio

[SJPONeill]

Bored? No way!! Fascinated and educated? Absolutely!!

[Don Boose]

Fascinating and instructive, Oratio!

Have a wonderful holiday with your wife.

Don

[Wily]

This is a cool thread - your work is neat and clean; thank you.

[B-Manic]

Great work Orazio. I really like that tail wheel, but those exhausts blow me away.

[pahorace]

In the short time that remains for me the opportunity again to thank and greet everyone.

This is a cool thread - your work is neat and clean; thank you.

Hello Wily,
Thanks, I am glad that you are here with us, welcome to this forum. We know! Because of the "Macchi 200", remember? On the other side.

Originally Posted by B-Manic
Great work Orazio. I really like that tail wheel, but those exhausts blow me away. B-Manic,
Thanks but because of language do not understand your words: ... but those exhausts blow me away.
But I hope you enjoyed it.
Unfortunately I have not done more photos on this step, I am so sorry.

However I must make a CORRECTION about exhaust pipe:
- only parts 1 and 4 are glued (at bridge) a C-shaped (not closed loop);
- the piece 5 is closed loop and glued to the contact piece 4.
I hope not to have created further confusion.

Orazio

[injin]

he...! maknyus beli ...:D

[rmks2000]

Orazio,

Outstanding job! I have the civilian version of this kit. It's nice to get a sense of how well the completed kit will look.

Bob

[doug]

very nice job,what did you use for the clear parts,again your plane makes my mine look silly.doug

[Begemot]

Great job! And very nice plane!

[pahorace]

Greetings to all,
thanks again for your kind comments, spurred me to continue.
Here is just another small segment of the thread.
I returned from vacation and I found: 3341 unread posts, will take some time to read them.

Before discussing the assembly of the whole model, I would give information about designs, real photos, profiles etc.
The main website that I have consulted for this model is:

Savoia Marchetti Sm. 79 "Sparviero" - Drawings & Profiles (http://www.ams.vr.it/Documents/Sm.79%20drawpro/Sm.79%20drawpro.htm)

Here I found the drawings (very large) which I have adapted to 1/48 scale and who have helped to put all the parts correctly.
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Not only.
In this website there is only one real photo, which I found, of the aicraft and color design profile.
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I have examined many times this picture, to discover all the information I could obtain, useful to build the model.

Good and useful images can be found here:
Savoia Marchetti Sm.79 "Sparviero" Walkaround - page 1 (http://www.ams.vr.it/AircWalkAround/Museo%20Vignadivalle/Sm.79/Sm.79%20Sparviero%20pag%2001.htm)

A beautiful color photos of the squadron is here:
SIAI-Marchetti SM79 Torpedo-Bomber "Sparviero" (http://www.constable.ca/caah/sm79.htm)

Always unknown is the subject of radio, antennas and various navigation tools.
But the modeler knows that this argument is not marginal in the case of coating of the final model along with the livery attracts more attention of the viewer.

I found a very detailed "pdf" document (in Italian language) here:
Curiosità Storiche (http://www.aireroma.altervista.org/Doc/curositaStoriche.htm)
"La stazione Radio dello Sparviero (Fabio Zeppieri)"
"Radio station of Sparrowhawk (Fabio Zeppieri)"

The skeleton of the wings was set at the inside of their covers.
Gondolas (engine supports + housing landing gear) are pasted on the underside of the cover.
They do not fit perfectly above the plane of the wing and then proceed to cover the cracks with white glue.
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After that, the wings are glued to the fuselage and secured with clips, providing the right dihedral angle through the placement in the appropriate section of prisms in cardboard as figures:
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You can now paste the interiors.
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It's time to begin the dramatic step of pasting the hump.
(crews called this aircraft (rhetorically): "Damned Hunchback". Now I know why!)
I have done several tests for positioning and bonding of the hump, like these:
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But in the end the whole complex was too delicate and fragile, unstable and intolerant to any manipulation, because of the transparencies that I used: polypropylene sheet too thin.

Orazio

[jagolden01]

Fine build, Orazio!
The landing gear is nicely done as is the rest of the build.

I have this model and your build will be very valuable when I do get to build it myself.

[Don Boose]

Welcome back, Orazio.

This thread is a wealth of very useful information about the model and about the Sparviero.

Your work is always outstanding.

Don

[pahorace]

This operation is the most challenging of all the assembly and, in my opinion, was done with great care.
I decided to paste all over the Canopy with the method step by step.
Each component was individually glued awaiting complete drying before pasting a new element.
At the point where I was, I could not afford to make mistakes.

Start stitching the two side windows and the roof element with transparencies.
This last element (because of its shape like a bow bent) exercise a strong pressure on the side windows.
It's necessary that the glue of the side windows is completely dry.
First is glued to the front of the item and then the side with windows, using sturdy metal clips that do not ruin the paper.

By the way, beauty shops for the ladies are a true paradise for the modellers!

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When everything was finished I started to glue the transparencies with the side segments arriving at the fuselage.
The attack on the fuselage of these elements is a bit problematic but with some attention to the operation is not overly difficult.
As shown in the two shots, the clip near the red arrow is used only as a counterweight to help the curvature of this element.
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and here the work done until now
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The hump (marked by red arrow in photo above) was cut into several parts and glued them one at a time.
Here is pasted on the first element:
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Here the second part of the hump while in training the third element:
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By the same procedure, I glued the remaining elements:
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The next full details.

Orazio

[Papercut]

Nice, a really great bird to be building. Coming along, look forward to the completion.:DRick

[pahorace]

Rick,
thanks, the next I hope to conclude.

Orazio

[Don Boose]

You provide an excellent description and very good photos of the work, Orazio.

Congratulations on the clever use of hair clips and the marvelous apparatus you constructed to hold the rear of the hump in place while the glue dried -- a real balancing act!

Don

[Wily]

Hair clips are brilliant - thank you!!

I like your canopy too...good work. <S>

[pahorace]

Don,
thanks, my friend. And Wily.

I try to be as clear as possible especially for beginners in card-model.
why do not you ever give up before the inevitable difficulties.
I confess that for an entire month more I have not worked on the model and I wanted to abandon the job because I believed graves difficult for me too much.
I use two different hair clips, in the picture is that of steel and high pressure; another type (which I shall later see) in aluminum at low pressure.

Orazio

[pahorace]

I apologize to everyone for the delay but this last part was very articulate.
I did my best.
Strangely the details of a model are sometimes cared little.
In my opinion taking a very great importance for the credibility of the model.
Even if a model is not built to perfection (like mine) but the attention to detail can make it quite credible and enjoyable then the observer (this is my point of view, psychological).
As such it is necessary to study as much as possible the real photos and drawings of the aircraft to more views (if you can find them).

The photo below, as I already said, has been examined many times because it's true that this model (in action as they say American friends), enlarged it could easily read the number "2" on the tail.

This a picture in B / W color (how many photos of the means of WWII) but also exploring the shades of gray is possible to interpret even the real color of camouflage.

With regard to details you see six of them:
(I have posted this photo)
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- 1 - Antenna of Radio-goniometer (not in kit); near the antenna towards Cockpit is a door where the Navigator could point a sextant (not in kit):
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- 2 - antenna tower of tail (not in kit);

- 3 - Pellizzari's machine. This equipment was supplied to all the "S.79", was placed on the right side of the aircraft (under the window of the pilot) and was a eolic electric generator type RA-400.
The electric generator for battery charger was connected to the main engines of the aircraft.
This equipment was simply an alternative source of emergency (not in kit).
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- 4 - The front machine gun (in hunting) was not much appreciated by the crews and so it was often removed, but in that aircraft was installed and operational (the element is in Kit).
- 5 - counterweights below the Ailerons were designed by me (not in kit).
- 6 - Pitot tube at both ends wings (not in kit) - I have not yet done but I promise that I will do it and the photos will be posted).

The parties that I have used are these (refer to that table after that call: "ExP"):
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1) - Radio antenna-goniometer consists of a cylinder with 3 mm in diameter and 3 mm in length (easy to do) a conical lid from 4 - 4.5 mm (cut like "Pac-Man", see below) this is the support.
A dipole circular design on the table "ExP" as (part: 1 +) and a rectangular base:
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2) - The tower antenna tail (part 2 "ExP") contains a small piece of wire from 0.25 mm which is glued with cyanoacrylate, at the ends of the antenna tail.
The wire for antenna used is a very special thin wire (0.1 mm) and very elastic, derived from an elastomer known in the chemical industry as "ez", bought a http://www.essebiemme.net/html/sbm_wire. html (very expensive).
Bonds at the moment with cyanoacrylate, which almost merges.
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3) - Pellizzari's machine consists of: a small tube of 8 mm length and 3 mm diameter then I gained some discs 2.5 mm, some 3 mm so that the rear of the machine and head should be attached where the two tiny propellers designed table "ExP" (part 3).
Discs 2.5 mm are needed to introduce them into the pipe (main body) 3 mm diameter.
Drying occurred then all elements are then sanded and covered with vinyl White Glue.
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Orazio

[pahorace]

4) - All weapons are provided by the kit and are colored in black. I simply added the texture in place of the black still respecting the original design (part 4 - "ExP").
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5) - All balances under the Ailerons (Part 5 - "ExP") are positioned so easily have already identified their positions.
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6) - Do more.

Among the Fin and the Elevator were willing to part two bracing, a twin-wire and a single wire.
Even for these, I used elastic thread "ez" 0.1 mm.
For the anchor was used in small loops galvanized wire from 0.25 mm.
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A final consideration on Antenna radio that they were two, were made with wire "ez" 0.1 mm:

- A fixed dipole order for Medium and short wave, divided into two sections, anchored (with insulators passers) between the sides of the fuselage and wings;
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- A dipole for long waves (to unwind in flight. Said: with drum), from antenna-tower of the fuselage to the tail (which I have already spoken)
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I think I have finished.
I thank all friends who have followed this thread.
I hope to have given to this beautiful forum my small contribution.

Orazio

[dansls1]

Excellent descriptions and details! This is a great thread to follow ;)

[Don Boose]

I echo Dan. This is one of the classic build threads, full of excellent photos, detailed description of the build, and useful techniques. Thank you, Orazio, for taking the time and trouble to provide ths systematic and well-illustrated description of your construction of this great and historic airplane.

Don

[redhorse]

Yes, the details are really quite incredible. You did a wonderful on this beauty!

[B-Manic]

I really enjoyed following this build Orazio. The details are fantastic as is the overall model. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[rockpaperscissor]

This has been a very informative build thread, Orazio, and the finished model is truly a wonder. Your attention to detail is inspiring. Congratulations on completing a real masterpiece!