Retired_for_now
09-04-2009, 08:05 AM
A short interlude between other projects.
Thought it might be quick and easy to make a few small models for presentations - wrong. The time it takes me to build is determined by the number of parts, their complexity in cutting/forming/assembling, and is inversely related to the size (obvious close work issues - I need to borrow KGLala's, Phil's, or Obi's fingers). For the presentos I did some of the simple gliders instead (found on the internet section, Neato Gliders thread).
I had the P-51 printed so, throwing judgement to the wind, I pressed on.
Score then cut. You can cut out all the FG parts at once - there aren't enough to make it confusing later and I still have the paper with the parts punched out to refer back to if needed (not so far). Do label right-left/port-starboard for paired parts (top-bottom, fore-aft, etc.).
23916
Everything that needs it get pre-shaped - creased or curved. The little flared edges above the wing slots were just teased into shape by repeatedly squeezing and bending with the tweezers.
23917
This one builds the wings by attaching the leading edge. This is required by the design since the leading edge is not straight (can't fold it) but the trailing edge is. A bit of work with the high tech alignment fixtures and the wing is set and rigged.
23918
Some more tweezer work to assemble the bits. I attached the wing root fairings at the aft end first, then stretched them forward and secured the middle portion. Repeat for other side. Next, pull into place and secure the front (repeat other side). I left the bottom edge of the fairing loose to float on the wing. This fairing has no complex curve to it, so there is no problem with it buckling. It has a simple curve and twist around the wing root.
23919
And there she is.
23920
The only "new" trick (I probably read it on one y'all's blogs) was used to close the gores on the spinner. I smeared glue inside/between the gores, pushed them approximately closed with the toothpick, then used progressively smaller holes from a drill gauge to force the tip round and closed. A little press and twist, switch to next smaller hole, repeat ...
Thought it might be quick and easy to make a few small models for presentations - wrong. The time it takes me to build is determined by the number of parts, their complexity in cutting/forming/assembling, and is inversely related to the size (obvious close work issues - I need to borrow KGLala's, Phil's, or Obi's fingers). For the presentos I did some of the simple gliders instead (found on the internet section, Neato Gliders thread).
I had the P-51 printed so, throwing judgement to the wind, I pressed on.
Score then cut. You can cut out all the FG parts at once - there aren't enough to make it confusing later and I still have the paper with the parts punched out to refer back to if needed (not so far). Do label right-left/port-starboard for paired parts (top-bottom, fore-aft, etc.).
23916
Everything that needs it get pre-shaped - creased or curved. The little flared edges above the wing slots were just teased into shape by repeatedly squeezing and bending with the tweezers.
23917
This one builds the wings by attaching the leading edge. This is required by the design since the leading edge is not straight (can't fold it) but the trailing edge is. A bit of work with the high tech alignment fixtures and the wing is set and rigged.
23918
Some more tweezer work to assemble the bits. I attached the wing root fairings at the aft end first, then stretched them forward and secured the middle portion. Repeat for other side. Next, pull into place and secure the front (repeat other side). I left the bottom edge of the fairing loose to float on the wing. This fairing has no complex curve to it, so there is no problem with it buckling. It has a simple curve and twist around the wing root.
23919
And there she is.
23920
The only "new" trick (I probably read it on one y'all's blogs) was used to close the gores on the spinner. I smeared glue inside/between the gores, pushed them approximately closed with the toothpick, then used progressively smaller holes from a drill gauge to force the tip round and closed. A little press and twist, switch to next smaller hole, repeat ...