BRDM 2 ORLIK 1:35 Build Thread

**Fishcarver** · #1 01-30-2008, 11:22 PM

is here: http://forum.zealot.com/t155874/

I willl gradually transfer a copy of it over here as well!
Jim

**Fishcarver** · #2 02-09-2008, 02:42 AM

Hi Gang!

Have just finished building the ORLIK BRDM-2 mod 96i wheeled recce vehicle as published in 1:35 scale. The ORLIK catalogue number is 005.

The vehicle as printed represents the Polish/Czech 96i variant of the Soviet BRDM 2 in Polish Army (WkP) service. Unlike the Soviet BRDM2, the 96i does not have "cross country belly wheels". Instead, there are large troop doors in the sides of the hull.

Do not figure upon slapping this model together in an evening. Consider this (at least) as a good 1:35 finescale plastic model and plan to work accordingly.

There are lots and lots of often-absurdly tiny parts to deal with here.

I previously did an overview of this kit. ORLIK BRDM-2 mod. 96i

I have tried to provide a set of comprehensive instructions and my building tips as no English instruction for this kit is available.

By the way: the cover illustration on the booklet appears to be of a a painted model. The camouflage pattern on the printed model appears to be standard NATO Pattern Woodland Camo, so the appropriate FS colours of whatever paints you use should suffice. (Light Olive Green, Red-Brown, Black)

Jim

**Fishcarver** · #3 02-09-2008, 02:53 AM

Know this going in: this is a small-scale model which will require patience, planning and precise workmanship!!

After laminating the main structural parts to 1 mm (**) and 0.5mm (*) card, construction begins with the hull inside frames.

After cutting out the hull parts (1 a through f) dry-fit everything before gluing. Assemble the inside of the hull formers first and allow to dry thoroughly. IT IS VITAL THAT THIS ASSEMBLY BE KEPT SQUARE AS IT DRIES!!.

NOTES: a) Part number 1c (hull rear frame) on page 1 needs to be backed up with 1mm card.
b) Make an extra set of both parts 1e (page 1 ) and 1f (page 2) and back up with 1 mm card. These should be glued onto the inside of part 1a (around the wheel openings).
c).If you implement note b, above, it would also be useful to cut a spacer from 1 mm card and lay it flat across the top of the reinforced front wheel openings. This will help keep the frame square.

**Fishcarver** · #4 02-09-2008, 02:55 AM

Once this assembly is all squared up and dried, I would recommend installing the lower hull top (part 1d) to keep everything solidly together. If necessary, you can "weld" the top to the frames with glue from the inside.

Finally, attach the hull bottom skin (part #2). This is a fiddly job. I would first back part #2 up with plain paper, then cut it out. Prefold and dry-fit it.

*If I had this to do over again, I'd cut part #2 into 5 pieces: the center portion and the four wheel opening liners, and use joining strips to attach the wheel opening liners to the center section. It is a real pain in the fundus to attach part 2 otherwise..
Attached Thumbnails

**Fishcarver** · #5 02-09-2008, 02:57 AM

A view of the lower hull top (part 1d) being installed.

The clamps are to ensure that part 1d is firmly in contact with the glue placed on the inside frames.

Square and Solid are the watchwords here.

**Fishcarver** · #6 02-09-2008, 02:59 AM

BRDM 2 Lower Hull Skins
Identify and prepare parts 3 (P&L), 4, 5, 6 (both P (Prawda = right) & L (Lewa=left) , and part 7. Parts 4 and 6 should be glued to ordinary paper before cutting out. Spot all holes on parts 5 and 6 with a pin for later drilling.

Dry-fit everything, then install in sequence parts 3, 4, 6, 5 and 7.

Any lack of squareness in the hull frames will now appear, especially around the fitting of parts #6. Work carefully. Once everthing is in place, allow to dry thoroughly. After drying, you can trim off any "naughty bits".

Next step will be building of the upper hull structure.