Technikos 1/25 FT-17

[lmsjim]

As promised my next model is the FT-17. After the Whippet I hope this will be a little easier build. I actually had already started on it before I finished the Whippet while waiting for paint to dry. I bought both the Maly and Technikos kits of the R-17 since I was not really sure which one to build. I do know there is a GPM kit but only saw it after I started and not sure it is any different.

After looking at both models however, I determined the Tecknikos is just a copy of the Maly kit except they added a number of extra parts and changed the turret to a Renault omnibus riveted turret. Unfortunately they also copied all the mistakes that Maly did. The Maly is an old one and collectible if you are into that and the Tecknikos, which was printed in Lithuania is still readily available and cheap although I have read they went out of business. Therefore I decided to go with the Tecknikos.

Now the both models are supposed to represent the R-17 which was a post war model used in some countries to include Poland. Interestingly I could not find it mentioned in any of my references on the RT-17 designation except as a modified FT-17. Not sure what the Maly kit represents but the Technikos does have a real life counterpart that was in the Lithuanian Army around 1920. These were simply FT-17's with a modified mantlet for a machine gun. What I hope to do is covert this back to a real WWI French FT-17. We will see if I succeed.

I started by scanning in all the pages, which really turned out to be a good idea as you will see. I first mounted the internal frame on 1mm board and cut it out and glued it together. I then tried mounting the shell on .5mm board and mounting it but did not fit together so I tried again on .2mm and it worked okay. The fit was not great so I had to do some trimming. It turns out the frame is really too small and bounces just around inside the shell at least until I glued it down but it really is a waste of time on such a small hull. I did also try just using the skin without adding backing but it was way too thin and since the frame was too small I decided to reinforce it.

The top and front pieces were not a problem but the rear deck took some time to get right. The problem is it not wide or long enough to fit like it should. I finally left a border around it and got it on. I also had to extend the back since it did not go all the way to the rear of the chassis like it was suppose to. I originally put the raised piece #13 on the rear deck but it looked wrong. I checked my references and realized that it should be raised since there is an opening for the engine underneath. I have included a photo of the incorrect and corrected vent. I replaced it with another one but this time I raised it using supports. I also replaced the screen piece with a fine mesh screen since the printed one would not show up after painting.

Jim

[lmsjim]

Continuing


The tail skid was the next item I tackled. Again the instructions were not a lot of help. It does not tell you if you should glue backing on or not. After some trial and error I ended up gluing the outer skid supports 22 and 23 onto .2mm board but not bothering with the inside pieces which were already thick enough. The kit is very simple and this is one area they ignored. The tail skid is supposed to be hinged but there are no parts for it. I used brass tubing to make a bar on top of the chassis and mounted the skid using a wire to hold the top piece just like the real one. I did not bother with the lower hinges since these are almost impossible to see unless you turn the tank over.


The toolbox was added next. I built it as per instructions except I had to add a strip of card around the top which seems to have been forgotten since it had a white strip around it indicating to me at least there should be something there. The toolboxes were not standard and all different types are seen.



Jim

[Don Boose]

I think you have convinced me not to attempt to build my Technikos R-17.

However, you are providing another fascinating and instructive build thread. I admire your skill and patience and look forward to seeing this model take shape. You provide very sharp photographs and a clear and complete narrative -- and your finished models are superb.

I have a special liking for this tank, not least because the U.S.-built version was the standard light tank of the U.S. Army for a couple of decades. I will soon be able to see one close up, as the one from Fort Knox is en route to the Army Heritage Center in Carlisle.

Don

[cjwalas]

I built the MM kit last year, no wait, earlier this year. I was not especially impressed with the kit.
My quick look at the TV kit got my hopes up that it was a better kit, but you've dashed all my hopes!
But just as Don said, you're providing a fascinating and instructive build thread and I'm really looking forward to seeing your modifications!
Chris

[CharlieC]

The Lithuanian FT-17s were rearmed with a Maxim gun in place of the Hotchkiss. The Maxim gun was positioned lower down in turret compared to the Hotchkiss.

I started this model ages ago but gave up due to the number of misfits. You should be congratulated for persisting with this model.

Regards,

Charlie

[lmsjim]

I agree this is not a great kit. I am beginning to believe that this kit is just a starting point and the fit does not get any better. I ran into a lot of problems trying to get the front armor plates over the drivers access hatches to fit properly.

There are two tow hooks on both ends of the chassis. The kit has again supplied some weird mounts which I believe are really wrong. I made my own using styrene rod and brass wire. I added mounts, which are not supplied in the kit for a tow cable and pioneer tools. I made up a shovel and had a pick using toothpicks sanded down to make them narrower. The pick head came from the same set I used for the Whippet which was a G Scale toolkit. The shovel was made from paper.

I made up the muffler and added an extra mount since they only supplied one but some of the drawings show two. This also made the mounting stronger. They did not use straps on the real one to mount the muffler although for some reason the Maly kit has them. I started adding rivets at this point. I used 1mm rivets made with my punch screw but for the hinges I needed smaller ones so I made these using my Historex punch and die set. This took a couple of evenings.

Jim

[lmsjim]

Well now for the really tough part. I have been working on these puppies for a couple of days now. I started on them but was really surprised on how little was furnished in the kit. I really had not looked closely at these until now. At first glance they looked okay but when I started actually building them it became obvious that the parts furnished only allowed you to build a characterture of the real thing and that is being kind. I tripled the card via the kit instructions on the side pieces but felt they were still too thin so I added .2mm board also. I added the pieces around the sides on the front and back pieces. On the rear there is an extra sheet of metal that is represented with a “V” shape line on the print. I printed the outside pieces again and cut out the end piece and glued it on top of the original. The drive sprocket was next. I mounted on .2mm board and also double the card on it. I added braces made from very thin styrene and a rim made from card. I mounted them using styrene rod.

The front idlers were made with the same pie marked piece on both sides like a number of the real ones had. I scribed the lines of the pie slices. I also used styrene rod for them also. I made the front mount out of tube styrene and mounted it on a piece of styrene to give it strength. I had to totally remake the front mount piece which is supposed to be a fork not the contraption that the kit supplies. I soldiered a piece of brass strip and brass rod to form the fork that the front idler mounts on.

The top return rollers assembly was used but I doubled the number of rollers since the kit incorrectly only had one set for each when it should be two. The spring was made from soldering wire. I added a number of extra pieces on the sides plus added a rim around both the front and back piece. For some reason the kit tells you to put a second set of springs in the sponsons but the photo I have of the R-17's clearly show they were not present and I am not aware of any WWI French built ones that did. Could be wrong of course. I do know they did add this second spring on some including the US built six ton tank.

There is supposed to be a single large piece that goes between the two sides on top that the kit ignored so I made it and detailed it. I also added a second set of wheels on the bottom roadwheels. When all was said and done I ended up almost completely scratch built the whole thing. But they are done. Not 100% accurate but I feel it is a better representative of what the real ones had.

Jim

[B-Manic]

The improved running gear looks great.

[lmsjim]

Now for the turret. The turret was another issue. I looked at using the cast turret from the Maly kit but realized it wasn't very accurate. It is similar to an early cast turret like the FT-17 at Bovington but not that close. It is tear drop-shaped instead of the more common round casting. I decided to used the Renault riveted turret in this kit but of course ignored the Maxim machine gun since it was a special one made for the Lithuanian R-17. I built the turret pretty much straight except the rear where the doors are misprinted. They incorrectly printed the door's location bigger than they should be on the turret. The doors, which are separate are actually the right size so no harm done since I am going to paint it anyway. The mantlet was built from paper and the 37mm cannon was made from plastic rod and tubing. The gun site was made from a brass tube. I mistakenly made the paper sleeve on the gun barrel too short. I did correct that later but not in the photos I have attached here.

Jim

[Tim Crowe]

Looks good - like the barrels

Almost a shame to paint over all that hard work.

Tom