"The Konradus Stuart" or "In Way Over My Head"

[k.warner]

I am coming off of a series of disappointing modeling experiences as I write this post. A while ago I finished the Stuart "Honey" and decided to move on to a great looking iron clad produced by CZ Ertz. I went about blowing it up from 1/250 scale to 1/125, because I thought it would be cool to flesh out some of the details and make it a full-hull ship. Unfortunately, at that scale, things did not work out. Perhaps it was the way I made it larger (though in the past, the technique has worked), but either way, after a week of work, I frustratingly gave up on trying to make the parts fit closely. I will go back to the model on its original scale at a later date... so I decided to go back to the comforting lines of early U.S. armor.

But alas! Those comforting lines are not to be mine...yet. I took from its folder one of the very first models I printed, the complex and intimidating Stuart Tank, incidentally also found on the Konradus website: WWW.KONRADUS.COM - SZUFLADKI - [model] Ameryka?ski czo?g lekki M5A1 Stuart VI (Autor: Agand). I printed everything on 65lb cover stock, so I figured I was a-ok to start on this complex but seemingly straight forward model. The polish instruction translated well, I think, into English, and the diagrams are extremely detailed (relative to other models I have seen).

I set about laminating the formers to this really great 1mm thick acid-free cardboard stuff that is used in archiving to place between old letters and diary sheets to support and protect them in their folders… the place where I work is processing a new collection of such things, and the old archives they belonged to use an old version of the cardboard. They just threw the old stuff away, so I have been able to pull this stuff out of the dumpster. And there-in lies the first major mistake of my Stuart undertaking: I laminated the 65lb cover stock to the 1mm cardboard for the formers, making the former way too thick (the instructions call for 1mm thick formers, a fact I double checked afterward… the tabs on the formers stick out by 1mm. Duh). Also, having never used formers before, I just kind of cut them out, not paying close attention to the exactness that was needed, and I stuck them together, trimming here and there almost haphazardly. By the time I got around to pasting the skins on to the formers, the imperfections and laziness had compounded into a frustrating set of gaps and ugliness that, after the ironclad debacle, made me promptly lose faith in my abilities to ever advance beyond the types of models I have already completed.

I took a deep breath, exhaled, and studied my mistakes. I am now prepared to fix them by starting over. I have re-printed the appropriate pages and I have printed the formers on plain copy paper. They should not be too thick... I am going to take my time in building the form so that the gaps will be non-existent or at least less noticeable. I am also going to figure out the best way, without paint, to color the formers so that any gaps that do show through will not be noticeable. Any help or advise on this front is greatly appreciated. I have already read a great deal of threads on these forums, paying close attention to just that, but I am under strict orders from Her Majesty and Empress of the Household to spend no money at all for the foreseeable future. I may have to get to the point where paint is needed and then stop and wait for the fiscal constraints on my hobby to be loosened.

So, that is where I am at the moment, waiting for the formers just laminated to dry so that cutting may commence. In the meantime, I have learned to appreciate and value two techniques I had hitherto not needed. One is the use of Don Boose’s Japanese hole punch. My God! What an amazing piece of machinery. I borrowed it from him over a month ago on a one-week trial and have still not yet returned it to him. He may have to pry it from my fingers when the time comes. I needed it in the formers and the skin of the Stuart I am working on, so hopefully he will not hunt me down until I have been able to re-complete those parts. Second is the use of the straight razor and hammer put forth by Mr. KC Stephens. I am using the long trapezoidal razor you install in box cutters and a big contractors hammer, but, man, it does the job on those thick formers, especially the type of cardboard I am using, which is some pretty tough stuff designed to hold up for a very, very long time.

Ok, then. Below are some of the photos of my first former attempt. Feel free to throw whatever criticism or advise you would like my way. I am but a sponge ready to soak up the wisdom of the Paper Modelers forum.

[Don Boose]

Karl - I'm glad to see you pressing on in spite of some less satisfactory experiences. Looks like you continue to learn by doing. I, on the other hand, have done no paper modeling since I last saw you, but hope to get back to work soon. I'm very glad that you are getting good use (and lots of practice) with the brass screw punch.

Formers are a challenge. The various Forum threads on formers contain much wisdom, but there is nothing like experience. I am now learning a few things from your well-written and illustrated commentary.

As Mike used to say here: Please to continue!

Don

[CharlieC]

You may run into problems with Part VIIIA - the intent of the circle with the "W"(*) means cut this piece out. The turret ring is intended to sit inside the hole in this part. Similarly there's an elliptical hole required on the glacis plate.

The card you're using looks thicker than 1mm - it's important with AFV models to build the frame fairly exactly otherwise the skin won't fit. If you find 1mm card just too tough to cut then you could consider using 1mm balsa - this cuts very easily. I remember using this on a KV-2 model which asked for 2mm formers.

Regards,

Charlie

* W stands for "Wyciac" or "cut out" in Polish.

[Jim Nunn]

Charlie is correct formers must be spot on for thickness. I have built models that if the former card stock was .010 (10 mils) over sized it would cause everything not to fit. As you have found out the formers/ frame of the model makes or breaks the model. I haven't looked at this model for a several years, though it always intrigued me. I am wondering if the angled plates should be beveled you see this in most current Armor models.

Lastly could your printer be scaling the model and changing the dimensions of the parts?

Jim Nunn

[k.warner]

Thanks for the advice, gentlemen! As soon as I read these posts, I went and rechecked the thickness... sure enough, 1.5 mm! So, I RE-printed the formers AGAIN and having run out of spray adhesive, I used Elmer's to paste the plain paper to some 1 mm particle cardboard. I will post pics tonight; the first pieces I cut out seem to be fitting perfectly.

As for the printer, Jim: I think I am OK on that one. I opened the files in Photoshop and transferred them 1 for 1 to 8.5x11 inch paper, taking the overlapped cutoff ends and putting them on a trailing sheet. The skins fit the first-draft formers perfectly; it was just the extra thickness of the formers that was throwing things off.

As for the beveled plates, I am not sure I understand. The way the former parts fit together with the notches, I am not sure there is any need for a beveled cut. I will say I do NOT like the notched fit approach. I would rather cut the parts straight and glue them together edge to edge (or beveled edge to beveled edge), if that makes sense.

EDIT: I wonder if I could simply print the skin parts on heavy paper and laminate them to cardboard and then build without the formers? Is this a viable option?

[k.warner]

Next batch of photos below... but most importantly, I finally got the formers right (I hope)! With the formers the correct width and everything pasted together nice and sturdy, I began skinning.

Skinning is definitely a way different skill set than any of the models I have worked before... What really annoys me is the tiny gaps here and there between the skin pieces allowing the former to show through. I am able to burnish some edges with a bit of glue underneath to hide some of the gaps, but on some, I think they are going to end up being a bit unsightly. I will wait until I have all the skin on before I make a judgment call as to what to do about it. Paint and putty are, for the moment, out of the question... I can only work with what I have at hand in the house right now. I think it will end up being a matter of black marker, olive wax crayon, and burnished edges.

I do want to call attention to one part on the former: I was thinking about Jim Nunn's comment about beveled edges when I was putting together the small triangular trapezoidal bit that fits between the front plate of armor and the top of the side fenders (the part that forms the front slant that takes the sides to the front, see the image below). The back edge did not fit in to the former properly and left a jutting edge between the parts. So, I cut the trailing edge at a 45 deg angle, or there abouts, and pasted it in. Viola! It worked out nicely. I am not sure if I was supposed to do this, or if the part SHOULD have fit flush and I will find a mistake in the former at a later time, I do not know. I hope it does work, because I was sure feeling clever.

This is a difficult model. My feeling at this point is that it will be a series of mistakes ending as a frustrating bit of sadness. But Lo! I will not be put from my task nor moved from my mission! I will complete this model and then go back and build it again. I have learned a great deal just in the past two days about formers and skins, and I think the rest will come the same way as I train my fingers to better serve the paper gods. Between the advice from this forum and the experience of building the model, it will make sense AFTER I have built it rather than as I build it. So, it follows that build two will look better (or would it be 2.5 since I already threw away one set of formers?). That being said, we will see if I ever really build a second one.

(raises glass of Boston Lager) Here is to THIS build of the model, may it turn out looking like a tank!

[Jim Nunn]

k.warner

Now that's how a hull should look I think your well on your way to very nice model.

"This is a difficult model" It sure is, but it will stretch your skills and you will finish the model and be a better modeler for the effort.

"My feeling at this point is that it will be a series of mistakes ending as a frustrating bit of sadness." Au contraire it will be a series of problem solving challenges ending in great personal satisfaction on finishing a difficult model.

and I'll hoist a Sam with you!

Jim Nunn

[duditz72]

Karl that's a pretty good view of things. I am in the same boat with my king tiger I just keep telling myself this is my first tank and each kit I will do will improve my skill little by little. I don't think I will ever be happy with a model I do I always strive for perfection but always fall short. But, I will never give this hobby up it is way too much fun and I love sharing what I am doing with like minded people. Keep up the good work that Stuart is looking great definitely better than my king tiger, great job!

[k.warner]

My wife, the beginning, end, and center of my existence, has seen fit to purchase a gift for me. Quite a while ago, we were discussing paints, as she is an avid oil paint enthusiast. I mentioned some interesting things I read about gouache paints on these forums, and just the other day, with a few dollars she had squirreled away; she bought me a set of the paints as a surprise. I went on Amazon today, however, and saw the order, and inadvertently spoiled her surprise. But I am getting paints!!!! Yay! She does not know that I know, so I will be sure to act surprised.

I will use them on the Stuart because I am having a hell of a time making the edges look in any way respectable. The link to what she bought is here: http://www.amazon.com/Reeves-Gouache-Artist-Paints-12ml/dp/B003CGJD0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1315072877&sr=8-2. I remember reading about mixing paints properly, so I will have to go back and check that out again to make sure I get it as right as possible the first time so as to not waste paint. I am interested in a few things: First, should I put the whole thing together, then paint it with a base color and then paint the details? Should I just skin the model, paint it, and THEN put on the bits and pieces? Paint the pieces before I put them on the chassis, or put them on the chassis and then paint them? Etc, etc. I will do my own research on these things through this forum, but if anyone has a favorite thread pertaining to such things, please feel free to save me some time searching!!!

You can call me “the Armor Picasso” from now on.

EDIT: Duditz, I have been watching your Tiger thread carefully. It is looking great, and is giving me a step up on how-to tips and techniques.

[Don Boose]

Karl -

I think you will find the gouache opaque water soluble paints to be very useful. I have not used them for many years and have no useful advice (as you know, on my smaller scale models my technique is to slather Neocolor II soluble wax crayon on the edges and to cover up misadventures with powdered pastels, such as Tamiya Weathering Master).

I believe Leif Ohlsson has used gouache and he may weigh in. Kevin Stephens, Greg Perry, and many others use acrylic paints to good effect. Marco undercoated the edges of his chassis frame with paint, but I'm not sure what he used. M4A3 Sherman 1:25 GPM

I hope to learn a lot from your use of these paints.

Don