|
|
|
#21
09-18-2009, 03:37 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks everybody for comments. They drive me to try and build this model as best I can even more.
 jagolden01, I actually used several threads about this model on kartonbau forum, because instructions is definitely not the strongest side of this model. Finished the turret. I decided to make the top removable and so had to sacrifice some cleanliness around the edges.          
|
|
#24
09-20-2009, 01:48 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Daimyo,
Your build brings back memories of my build, but you are doing a better job then I did. As you are about to start on the suspension system I would like to suggest an improvement to the model. My Tiger sits in my display case with a completely collapsed suspension system and I should add that every time I showed the model I had to repair the suspension system. The problem is that the suspension arms are just butt glued to the sides of the hull. This creates two issues first it becomes very difficult to align the suspension system so that all of the bogies rest firmly on a level table. (Poorly aligned bogies are the first thing a judge looks for in a contest). The second issue is the failure of the glue joints. What happens is that when you apply a shear load to a paper joint the glue will hold (it’s stronger then the paper) but the outer layer of the paper peels away from the soft core of the paper. This is easy to fix just re-glue the part well then next layer of paper peels off I call this the Paper Sisyphus curse. Paper is a layered product with a soft core and a denser surface. This is the result of the paper making process which starts with a mix of fibers suspended in water. This mix is then run through a series of rollers that squeezes the water out. Hence the soft core with a denser surface. What I have done on every paper model since I built the Tiger is to reinforce the suspension system by adding solid wood or paper rod in the glue joints that will carry a shear load. (See drawing) I punch, cut or drill holes in the suspension arms and hull so that I can put in a tight fitting rod (shaded in my drawing). I also add a solid rod to the hollow tube that is usually required for the axel that the bogies are mounted on. Now the vertical shear load is on the solid rod and paper is not carrying the entire load. Don’t forget to do this on the drive sprocket and idler wheels and Sorry for the long post but as I watch you doing such an excellent job of building the Tiger I did not want to suffer the problems I had with the model. Jim Nunn
__________________
There is a very fine line between paper modeling and mental illness.
|
|
#27
10-16-2009, 03:53 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
wowwwwwwww!, it's incredibly awesome man. You must put an assembly plant for tiger tanks by yourself. I hope you'll make the engine too (with crankshafts, gears, carburators and sparkplugs included too!), :P. Just joking man. Nice work and thousand times better than a plastic model. Keep going and well done.
|
|
#28
11-12-2009, 12:56 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Hello all. Thank you for commenting. Suspension took a long time to build and my studies didn't help either.
Special thanks to Jim. I used your advice and reinforced the axles with wood rods, well, toothpicks, actually. And because I didn't cut holes in hull sides and torsion bar holders on the inside I took a metal pin and made small holes on both sides. Then I inserted a half of a pin perpendicularly (sp?) into every swingarm and glued it with superglue. These two actions allowed to build a quite stable suspension that doesn't any signs of collapsing just yet. I'll keep my fingers crossed.   
|
|
#30
11-13-2009, 04:49 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Awesome! Those are a lot of wheels! This one is on the stack, but I am working my way up to Halinski stuff! Look forward to more!
__________________
Chris Currently have way too many hobbies
|
| Google Adsense |
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
