#11
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It's coming along nicely. Nice, clean work. I'm watching your progress with interest.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#12
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I'm not usually much of an amour person, but this is a unique project. Very nice. You're off to a great start.
Gary
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"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything" - Wyatt Earp Design Group Alpha https://ecardmodels.com/vendors/design-group-alpha |
#13
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Very well done so far, Anne. I like the look of the 1930s-40s Italian vehicles.
Don |
#14
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I continue with hull details. I made one mistake that I had to correct — part 3, the upper hull skin, had joining strips that I overlooked and had edge-glued instead. I coaxed all of those glue joints open and added the joining strips because that enabled me to fit the fenders, parts 5, so that they matched with part 3 better. Gluing the fenders on was a little tricky. One thing I do not like is that the rear of the fenders keep getting bumped and bent.
I did paint the undersides of the fenders (third photo). They are streaky and not the best match, but they won’t show too much once the suspension and tracks are in place. They’ll look better than glaring white, anyhow. After that, it’s been mostly hatches. There were also a couple of little tool boxes, one on each side, with tiny hasps. Also a little drive sprocket area detail. A wire runs between the two engine hatches through the hinges. I have some wire the right size but need to get some paint that will stick to it. In the meantime, the muffler (?) is next, which will add a little color (it’s dark red), followed by more hull details. So far a mostly fun little project. It’s so tiny compared to the Sherman! Roughly the size of a very tall automobile. |
#15
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Looking good. Those fenders really are hanging out in the wind. I can see how they could be easily damaged.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
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#16
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If you've got Copper wire try annealing it - heat to red hot and plunge into water. Quick scrub with a pot scrub to get rid of any loose oxide - this seems to roughen the surface and gives a good key for acrylic paint. I did the spokes on my Lebedenko tank that way and the paint is still adhering well.
Not sure about steel wire - perhaps etch with an acid. regards, Charlie |
#17
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Dear Ann:
On the fenders how about using thin superglue on the underside to stiffen them up and make them indestructible? Enjoy, Miles
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If man could be crossed with the cat it would improve man, but it would deteriorate the cat. - Mark Twain Notebook, 1894 |
#18
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Dear Ann:
On the fenders how about using thin superglue on the underside to stiffen them up and make them indestructible? Enjoy, Miles
__________________
If man could be crossed with the cat it would improve man, but it would deteriorate the cat. - Mark Twain Notebook, 1894 |
#19
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Ah - your fenders inside look A! !
Perfectly acceptable...
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#20
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Sometimes helps to look at the original tank in case the model has missed something. With the L/6/40 it looks as if the track guards are pretty thick pieces of steel pressing perhaps as much as 1/4inch thick. The guard was made in three pieces which adds more rigidity from the joints and there is a small bracket at the rear of the hull which doesn't appear to be in the model. My impression is that the track guard does not overhang the track at the front and rear which would limit the possibility of damage to the guard. Guess the crew probably cursed that design feature because mud from the tracks would be thrown up onto the guard and hull.
Charlie |
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