#41
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Mike Dixon Anything in paper is fine with me |
#42
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I believe the Sculpey only has much odor, if any, when over-cooked. I have used a two part epoxy for years that is made for taxidermists. Never tried the Steel Putty (steel reinforced? that would be hard on the files ) but it sounds promising.
Just about anything will work for a master, especially if you recast in another material (such as carving from balsa wood coated with CA, then casting a mold using P-of-P.) Just must be rigid, able to resist the vac forces and the heat. Key to good quality canopies is a super-smooth surface on your plug and sufficient heat. If you can't get that with P-of-P right off, use coatings that allow for polishing. Waxing the plug doesn't hurt as long as it doesn't react with the plastic - which will be hot! Fun part is experimenting with the basics until you get something that works for you.
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Regards, Robert In Work: Uhu02 Tinkerbell - [under Tapcho's thread] Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude Nobi Junkers SRF BETA build - BETA Build: Nobi's Junkers SRF 1:48 scale |
#43
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The Steel Putty has a really long ( long enough to make a nice looking cockpit glass mold) working time. It isn't hard on files at all. Machinist files are far harder. You just have to hit them with a fine brass brush to clean the file, but the steel epoxy files great.
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#44
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That is one big a$$ canopy!! |
#45
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Mike Dixon Anything in paper is fine with me |
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#46
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What is it that you are making? If I may be so bold?
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#47
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You know what I am making Corsair
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Mike Dixon Anything in paper is fine with me |
#48
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Can an ink jet printer print on clear transparency? Is that done so i does not stick to the plaster?
I just printed it on card and use it as the mold and then just tear it off and sand it. Isaac |
#49
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I use the plastic because the paper soaks up the water from the plaster and sometimes this results in a collaspe of the mold. You should move to the wet sponge technique for final sanding and try to get the sponge on before the plaster is completely dry, that is why I included the clock times on the photos. Also when you use the plastic you can see the plaster and work out air gaps etc. I also did this in card at the start, but moved on to plastic as I progressed. But I spend a lot of time outside of the box looking all the time at new materials and techniques.
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Mike Dixon Anything in paper is fine with me |
#50
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Last post on this topic for now
Here is the positive mold that I case with Plaster of Paris. I had to fill in some areas and smooth it to match. I used the Sqadron Thermaform clear plastic ( which is no longer sold ). Heat over a candle and "smash over the mold.
I was never really happy with this plastic since it was never truely clear. Zathros, I really want to see your method. Please post some pictures. Cheers Isaac |
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