How to get a little beaver - Page 3

**willygoat** · #21 03-11-2008, 03:04 PM

Interesting idea. I usually just put glue on scrap and use a toothpick. I may have to try your idea. One question though, how much back-of-hand hair did you USE to have?

**birder** · #22 03-11-2008, 03:38 PM

I hope old troll does not read that. Jim I just want to congratulate you on your nice design, I've enjoyed it since it came out at fg and thought it never received enough notice. more on the drwing board I hope

**-Jim G** · #23 03-11-2008, 08:45 PM

Continuation of build from last night:

First I slit the fuselage to accept the wing tabs

Before the wings get in the way, I will build the float ladders. The kit does not include these parts because each beaver is a little different. I felt is was better to just let the builder handbuild the float ladders.

CF-OBS is serial number 2 - the first beaver after the prototype. It has a peculiar ladder.

First I made some 1/16" wide stips of 110# card and colored them with a silver marker.

Next I cut small slits in the fuselage to accept the ladder runners.

**-Jim G** · #24 03-11-2008, 08:51 PM

Here I have dry fit the runners into the fuselage

Also the other side.

I butt glue the bottom of the runners to the floats, and make and glue on the risers. I adjust the length of the runners by pushing them into or pulling them out of the fuselage until they are apparently the exact length. I put a small dab of glue at the fuselage slit when I am finished building the ladder.

**-Jim G** · #25 03-11-2008, 08:54 PM

First I dry fit the wings to the wing struts

Next I put a lot of glue into the wing roots.

Then I tab the wings into the fuselage.

**-Jim G** · #26 03-11-2008, 09:00 PM

It takes a certain amount of patience on my part to hold the wings in place until they set. Seems like 5-10 minutes of just sitting there, I rely on the length of the wing struts to be the exact length to set the dihedral.

The dihedral looks good - as usual

I like the looks of the P&W Wasp Jr. up front... I sent Rob to the Navy Museum to get a picture of the engine and used his photo on the front of the model.

**-Jim G** · #27 03-11-2008, 09:10 PM

I put on the other small pieces (the air scoop, the light on top, the exhaust pipe and the oil cooler) to finish the model.

CF-OBS, being an early beaver has the chin air scoop. Later in the production run the US Army specs required the starboard air scoop so it wouldn't pic up dust in the desert. DeHavilland offered the 'desert' air scoop as an option on the civil beavers too. Not much need for it on a float plane.

port aft view

**-Jim G** · #28 03-11-2008, 09:14 PM

Starboard aft view

Now just where did all that glue go?

Bottom view

Now that this one is finished I have several more to go to get finished pictures of each one on the dgapapermodels.com site.

I have a big grin on my face cause now I got a little beaver:D

**-Jim G** · #29 03-11-2008, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by birder

I hope old troll does not read that. Jim I just want to congratulate you on your nice design, I've enjoyed it since it came out at fg and thought it never received enough notice. more on the drwing board I hope

Thanks Glen. I hope to create a few more versions of the beaver and also at least help with more DGA designs. I designed the beaver while I was laid up in the hospital dying of acute leukemia. By a medical miracle I am apparently fine now and hence, my serious design time is limited by all of the distractions of family life.

**-Jim G** · #30 03-11-2008, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willygoat

Interesting idea. I usually just put glue on scrap and use a toothpick. I may have to try your idea. One question though, how much back-of-hand hair did you USE to have?

LOL! two years ago chemo had taken EVERY hair from my entire body. The base of my thumb was never the hairiest place, but with my hobby is stays barren.