Mustang I (Marek with Ohlsson recolor)

[YankeeBoy]

This will be a build of the Marek 1:33 North American Aviation Mustang I in the colors of No. 309 (Polish) Squadron, RAF. The model has been recolored by Leif Ohlsson in his own style and reflects information received from members of the P-51 Special Interest Group. There are also a few minor tweaks to some parts and a revised version of the camera mounted behind the cockpit.

The model was printed on Borden & Riley #234 Bleedproof Paper using an Epson Stylus Photo 1400 printer. All lamination (unless otherwise noted) was done using archival comic book backing boards. I use this material because of its high density, consistent texture and acid-free composition. The Borden & Riley paper is 0.2 mm thick and the comic book backing board is 0.55-0.6 mm thick resulting in a laminated thickness of about 0.8 mm which matches Marek's slot size perfectly. I use 3M 77 spray for laminating and Aileen's "Silver" for almost all gluing. Medium thick CA is used for non-paper joining.

Marek's new Mustangs are the subject of two other threads: one is a general discussion of various aspects of the kits and the other is a build thread of the P-51A version in the colors of the 1st Air Commando Group.

This build thread is intended to complement those and to provide a look at the first Leif Ohlsson's planned recolors. WARNING: I am a notorious non-finisher of build threads so I make no promises other than I will make a good faith effort.

I welcome your participation and comments - enjoy!

[cjwalas]

After avidly following the various aspects lead-in thread on this one, I'm very glad to see you doing this build thread and will be watching! thanks for doing this one.
Chris

[Don Boose]

The work you have displayed in Chris's initial thread on this model has been first rate. I look forward to seeing your work on this one.

Is this the archival comic book backing board to which you refered: Amazon.com: BCW Current Comic Book Backing Boards - (5 Pack) Comics, Comic Books Archival Storage Collecting Supplies: Sports & Outdoors?

Don

[YankeeBoy]

In typical Marek fashion, there are no written instructions. Construction guidance is provided in the from of three pages of diagrams but no sequence of construction is given. The sequence I present below is not "THE" sequence - it is "A" sequence that works for me. Feel free to change your build sequence as you see fit.

I started the build with the cockpit "module." This provides the anchor point for the forward and aft fuselage modules and the basis for the wing-to-fuselage joining.

BELOW: two views of the cockpit prior to seat and gunsight installation. Construction is pretty straightforward with the diagrams providing clear placement guidance. The side frames fit into cutouts in the instrument panel the panel shroud forward support. The frames should be flush with sides of formers E and F1/F2. If the side frames protrude they will foul up skinning later.





BELOW: Two cockpit views again but with the seat and the #$^@#$% gun sight installed. I am not usually a "fiddly bits" builder but gave it a try here just to provide proof of design. The fit of all parts to this stage has been trouble free.





NEXT INSTALLMENT - Camera and some skinning recommendations.

[YankeeBoy]

Don - I use 8-1/2 x 11 backing boards (called "magazine size") available from various online sources (or your local comic store!) Key points are "archival quality" and "magazine size."

[YankeeBoy]

A quick note...on the original build of the Marek design I made ALL CUTS to remove the line. Marek's outlines and panel lines are generally close to black and are about 0.5 pt wide. Cutting to just remove the line produced error-free fits for me on the forward fuselage and cockpit section.

This build of Leif Ohlsson's recolor is a little different in that Leif uses lighter and thinner lines (70% black and 0.25 pt, I believe.) All my cuts on this build are being made ON THE LINE (which results in the line going away.) I anticipate no problems with fit...but we'll see.

[Leif Ohlsson]

This is really, really good. I so look forward to what the colours and lines might look like in a real build. And what a pretty build it is already. Thank you, YB!

You're so correct about line thickness, 0.25 / 70 it is. Also, black is usually not black but 80 percent. Will be interesting to see what the impression will be.

A corrected version of the tweaked camera is now posted in the discussion thread.

Leif

[YankeeBoy]

The revised camera builds up nicely.



I added narrow (2 mm) band of paper inside the tube about 3 mm in from the end. This gave me a slight ledge for supporting and gluing the clear lens in place. the inside of the tube was blackened before rolling and gluing.



The prototype had the camera angled slightly aft and slightly down. This gave a clear field of view between the wing trailing edge and the tail assembly.

NEXT: Covering it all up...

[Leif Ohlsson]

The camera looks astoundingly good! I'm glad it worked out. And it seems it will fit through the perspex canopy just like it should, the upper edge protruding somewhat. Excellent!

Originally Posted by YankeeBoy

I added narrow (2 mm) band of paper inside the tube about 3 mm in from the end. This gave me a slight ledge for supporting and gluing the clear lens in place. the inside of the tube was blackened before rolling and gluing.

That is such a good way of making cylinders. Here's what I've always wanted to do a once-and-for-all and applicable-in-all-cases instruction for:

Making seamless small cylinders is a general problem. You can turn it into a real pleasure by making an extra copy of the part to be rolled up. Cut this 1.3 mm shorter (in the direction you roll), and just about half a mm lower (less width, whatever).

Now glue this joining strip/inner layer so that about half of it sticks out in the direction you are going to roll it. Shape (roll) the composite part while the glue is drying to a tighter roll than what you actually will end up with.

Then apply glue to the protruding inner strip, join the two edges of the outer layer, and press together by rolling it with your rolling tool (drill bit, knitting needle, skewer, whatever you use).

Not only will you get a seamless, even joint. You will - like YankeeBoy - also have created two ledgers, one each end, on which the endplates will rest comfortably and recessed.

Great for WWI rotary engine cylinders, and all kind of other cylinders as well for that matter.

Leif

PS. Why 1.3 mm shorter you may ask. Good question. It turns out this number is applicable to all cylinders made of ca 0.15-0.20 mm thick paper, wheter 2 mm diameter or 2 meters. Here's why:

The diameter of the inner layer is 2x 0.2 mm smaller, which makes for a circumference which is 0.4 x 3.14 (pi, you know) = 1.3 mm shorter. Regardless of size, as long as the paper thickness is 0.2 mm.

PPS. Turns out I already did that tutorial. Good! Go here for photos of the process.It is really worth it.

[Leif Ohlsson]

YB, staring at your photos, I can't seem to identify the black parts. Are these some provisional support parts made special to be able to try out and display the camera, or are you adding some additional structural parts? - L.

(Just so you know we really are watching...)