#21
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All I can say is, WOW! The last picture in particular, "that's paper??" Wish I had room (and the skill) to do something like that.
Scott K. |
#22
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Always Save a PDF
Magnificent work Rick. The fine art of the build combined with backup preservation is greatly commendable...,
-Gil |
#23
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The wingtip lights
I believe Texman had a suggestion on the other site that one could make an exact size copy of the wing tip light on the transparency in order to achieve a better fit.
How about making two layers of the transparency - one like you did (coloured), and one exact size (coloured or not coloured; experiment for effect) to be glued onto the bottom layer only at the edges. This way you might find it easier to achieve both a good fit and a flush positioning. Interesting problem. Leif |
#24
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I considered the added layer but was afraid I'd make a dogs breakfast of it. The cut would have to be spot on to look good. But I think I will try it anyway, it's an intriguing idea. I suppose I could press some thin paper into the depression all the way around to get a "pattern" and go from there.
Thanks for the tip! Rick Quote:
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#25
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Outstanding stuff
Very good thread to add to the build as well Keep it up and look forward to a lot more, bigger the better for me Regards Rob |
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#26
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Glazing for Lights etc.
Rick,
I've experimented with Aleene's Paper Glaze for filling instrument dials, portholes and openings for wing lights etc. The glaze comes in a bottle that has a nice dispenser for application. Glazing openings are filled by applying a bead from the backside beginning on the edge and working around the opening spiraling in toward the center until it's filled. Examine the filled area carefully. Use a needle point from the back side to attach any areas around the edge that the glaze has not attached to. Let dry in a horizontal position. The glaze will shrink when dry but remains flexible which allows it to be bent into shape for the leading edge. For a wing tip light a carrier needs to be made to allow the lens to be formed and cut out for installation when dry. The glaze can easily be tinted after it's dry. -Gil |
#27
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Sounds like some cool stuff!
Chris
__________________
Want to buy some models from independent designers? http://www.ecardmodels.com and visit the shop! |
#28
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That's a nifty idea! And it makes me wonder. I've got some Testors "window maker" cement that I suspect is similar. I wonder if flowing this stuff on TOP of what I've done here would work? Perhaps I'll do a test part and see.
Rick Quote:
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#29
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I missed the building reports!
Keep it on, Rick!! |
#30
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To answer my own question, the test part did not give good results. Worked OK up to a point, but as I built it up thicker it just got more and more cloudy.
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