#41
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Seams it Seems...,
Rick,
You've convinced me that going upscale has a lot of advantages over 1:33. One thing I did notice from your photos is that the paper seams blend into the printed seams. Not sure this is an effect of lighting/perspective/depth of focus, but it does suspend the sense of disbelief which is what the original intention was..., -Gil |
#42
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Ailerons. The Corsairs flaps are quite a bit different. The reason I ask is that the little fairings that cover the hinges on your ailerons are quite large compared to the Corsairs and I was wondering if they (the hinges) are actually functional? I kind of fudged mine so they work pretty much like the real ones but I think i might want to scale up the kit and trick it out and if so I would have to revamp the aileron hinges.
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Paper model designer turned aircraft designer. My models available for sale @ Gremir and Ecardmodels |
#43
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No, these hinges are not functional. They're basically little "C" shaped things that hook around and end up inside the fairings. I'll take a picture of the assembly drawing if I can find a decent one.
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#44
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One downside on this scale is "where to put it" when it's done! I'm thinking of building a large shelf in my office.
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#45
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nice p 47 have you looked at Gremirs i/24 th scale model yet .....lew osborn
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#46
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Yes, I have seen it on the CM forum, I think someone was doing a build. I don't have it, but it looks really nice. He did a fabulous job of the paint schemes. If I had not already had this one, I think I'd have gone that route.
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#47
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Rick, I just stopped working for today to keep current to your P-47 here.
Not only is a very detailed aircraft, but you also cared to explain us how things worked on the jug. Thank you!!! Now, back to work... nah, let's see the engine once more. |
#48
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I finally took a picture for you. Here are the parts and the bit of instructions that show where they go. Like I said in the other message, they hook into the ailerons where there are little square holes cut into the skin under the fairings. The ends of the hinges poke through the holes a bit. Don't know why they went to the trouble for totally hidden detail...
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#49
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As is my general habit, I start the landing gear with the tail wheel so I'm not banging the mains up later trying to put the tail in. This tailwheel
has a good bit of detail, as is Halinksi's usual design. Too bad it all gets covered up in the next step! Alas, I'm dumb enough to do the detail as good as I can just for the picture! Like I said, now you see it, now you don't! Finished tail wheel with safety cover on and the doors mounted. Can't put it off any longer, main landing gear is next, and my least favorite part of it are the wheels, so I'll do them first. I know you guys have seen wheels made a million times, but I'm going to try something new (for me) on these a couple of steps in, so I'll just go ahead and show it all. First is just the laminated circles glued together. The one on the right has been rough shaped with an X-Acto knife. I suggest using Titebond or a similar good woodworking glue to stick the plates together, as it dries hard and is sandable, unlike most of the normal white glues. Next shot is after they've been sanded while spun in a dremel tool. I had to cut recesses into the sides as these wheels are so big that it was too thick for the mandrel screw to reach through. After sanding, I brushed on a coat of Titbond, and sanded it smooth after drying to lay down the paper fuzzies. Lastly for today is a picture of what I'm going to try to attempt on these wheels. I'm going to try to cut cross hatching on them to simulate diamond pattern tread. This oughta be fun! |
#50
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Have you thought about applying your Titebond (or some other 'putty' type material) on the outside of the wheels and then rolling them across a grid (like a window screen or even plastic mesh material)? Seems like that'd be the easiest way to get the diamond pattern to me.
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-Dan |
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