#11
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Erik A close up of your printed parts also shows that the tan ( or light brown ) color is also a bit pink. here is a piece of your model: the aircraft should be like this: Notice how light the tan color is? Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#12
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I told you before, even when you were at my house too, that five minutes after spraying, wipe the paper with dry cloth to remove the unnecessary powder from the spray. After wiping, the result is excellent with an Americana spray. It keeps printing from weather damage, humidity, and glue damage that can create stains without a protective layer of spray. YOAV |
#13
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We can not rely on images, meaning that sometimes the color is faded, sometimes the plane is shot in the strong sun, or at sunset, so the colors come out different. Add to our problem, that each camera has other photographic characteristics and you will receive changes in the Color tone of the photographs. The other problem are the printers that also have changes in the color of the prints, but this is already a subject for discussion in itself. we should rely solely on accurate color schemes according to the FS standard colors. I attach a table of the colors of the Israel air force according to the accepted standard in the world. i did that table with Yaron. In the following pictures you can see 2 Israel F-4E phantoms with the same schema. The first was taken at 6:30 am and the second was taken at noon .... You can see the differences in the color of the sand (light brown) ... In the first picture it looks a bit pink and in the second it looks more yellow. Therefore, I argue that we should rely solely on the FS colors and not on photographs. YOAV |
#14
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here we go
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#15
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No matter which paper you use....it is best to spray the page after printing, and before building the model. Spraying prevents weather damage, such as moisture and mold. It also prevents stains that may be caused if the adhesive accidentally touches the paper during the building. Instructions for using spray paint, according to my experience: After printing, wait about 5 minutes for final drying. Then spray a thin layer of spray protection at a distance of 20-30 cm. Wait 1-2 minutes and spray another layer. After that, wait 5 minutes and then take a dry cloth and clean the page to remove the powder that has accumulated on the page during the spraying .... This makes printing smooth and highlighted. Some of my friends spray the model even after it's built. But it is necessary to cover the transparent canopy, otherwise there is a fear that the spray will damage the transparency of the canopy. good luck YOAV |
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#16
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A good start, well done!
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#17
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Exhaust nozzle
The Mirage was powered by the French Atar 9C engine.
The original version had a 2D converging nozzle in that two large doors moved from fully open to a bit closed in order to maximize the thrust at various conditions and settings ( sort of like squeezing the end of a garden hose with your finger. This Mirage was delivered with such a nozzle. Later on in its life it was converted to a full 360 actuating flap configuration I double checked with Yoav to confirm that the model as depicted here had the 2D nozzle. So, here are the parts and construction. Nothing complicated. the dummy disc is held in place while super glue is applied around the cyliner to maintain a good round exhaust section. Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#18
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Rear fuselage-Exhaust section
here are the rear two fuselage sections
and the inner liner. Dry fit first installed liner ( glue the back edge only ) Now install the rear frame ( 10 ). This shapes the fuselage round as well as supports the exhaust duct ( and is the only glue location for the duct ). dry fit the exhaust duct I decided to add locating/floating tabs to the inner liner. This will allow the exhaust duct to properly be located without gluing as there is a real space ( used for the fuselage interior skin cooling from the hot duct exterior ). Exhaust duct in place and properly positioned It is glued to frame 10 and floats at the rear. as a note: all the beautiful art work on the exhaust duct exterior will not be visible when installed ( only the very ends of the exhaust nozzle 2D doors ). Isaac
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My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#19
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Isaac,
Very nice start to another really great model. Yoav's weathering and details really add to his kits. You will truly do justice to this model with your skills. Gary
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"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything" - Wyatt Earp Design Group Alpha https://ecardmodels.com/vendors/design-group-alpha |
#20
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That’s a very good start indeed, Isaac! Your progress is impressive and I remember having the same sentiment regarding the engine duct: What a pity that such a beautiful print will be hidden inside the fuselage. The pictures are all that remain. The grey inside lining at the fuselage was a bit tricky, it needed some trimming for a good fit.
Regarding the colors, I tend to agree with Yoav. In normal daylight the sand color on my Mirage doesn’t look that pinkish, but it is certainly darker than the pdf on the computer screen and the pictures of real aircraft that you and Yoav have posted. Couldn’t help it, the printer settings were out of my reach as I used a printer at my work. Note the colors in the pictures may be deceiving as I normally auto-correct them after copying on the PC. The blue background of the cutting mat also influences the end result, as well as any light on my desk. Regarding the use of (matt) varnish, I also apply a thin first coat before starting the work on a model. Then during the build and when the work’s finished I usually apply another coat by a flat brush. This gives a satin gloss look to the model, which apart from protecting it, gives it a realistic (and attractive?) look. The trick with applying varnish is never apply a too thick coat, whether sprayed or brushed, otherwise you run the risk of a powdery surface or, worse, whitish spots on the model. Ayah, so many modelers, so many experiences! Erik |
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