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#31
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Here's an example of the use of the machine - it's the fuselage of a 1/24 scratch built, tissue-covered-foam Albatros D.II Radio Control model I sent to Pete. ![]() The formers are plastic-foam lamination, and the detail parts (louvers, caps) are plastic -- all cut by the machine. Relation to paper modeling? I always start with a rough paper model mock up as "proof of concept". ![]() Quote:
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As regards that "cheat concept" applying to paper modeling -- the machine has a "print and cut" feature that adds registration marks to a printed page. Those marks align the machine before cutting to ensure the cuts line up with the print. In my experience, not close enough for the precision required for this hobby. And it takes away the enjoyment of cutting! Gene K |
#32
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Thanks Gene... Just keeping an eye on you.
![]() Pete |
#33
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Thanks for the clarification young fella. Yes thick cardboard and Rata are the bane of my existence too. No matter what I do I just can't seem to get a good vertical cut. That is why I have gone to the foam stuff for filler. I am also contemplating using it for formers. It sands very easily and it is thick enough so that you can get a little "shelf" (sorry can't think of a better description this early in the morning) for each fuselage piece to set on. I am a thinkin' that maybe this would obviate the need for joiners. Probably need more coffee before I continue down this rabbit hole. Also thanks for throwin' in the cuppa explanation. Trust me friends, I AM trying... MS
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MS “I love it when a plane comes together.” - Colonel John “Hannibal” Smith, A Team leader Long Live 1/100!! ; Live, Laff, Love... |
#34
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Characteristics of our hobby are low-cost and handicraft. The most expensive element in creating my models are - mostly due to slips of the mouse ;-) - ink and paper.
Very recent I 'discovered' the jigsaw I once used on plywood Disney-stuff, bought a tuft of fine wood saw-blades and found out that cutting formers from 2mm wood board can be done much neater and precise than using a snap-off knife. |
#35
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I have several years on you, Whippersnapper.
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So will you focusing your surgeon hands on larger-than-1/100 models now? ![]() Gene K |
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#36
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Sorry if I crossed your line.
![]() And here I was contemplating a laser printer ... and 3D printer. ![]() Gene K |
#37
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In that regard, attached is another example showing the Silhouette's capability, this time cutting pieces for Nieuport 11 wheels. The larger pieces are 1:33, while the smaller is 1:100 (I only cut the wheel/cover with the Silhouette). The material is .5mm card that I got from GPM. Really good stuff at a price cheaper than a box of cereal!!! ![]() Gene K |
#38
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As someone who is realizing that repetitive cutting is arthritically painful, I would welcome the chance to afford a Silhouette cutter!
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Ray Respect the Paper, RESPECT IT! GET OFF MY LAWN! |
#39
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keep an eye on Craigslist or Ebay
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"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
#40
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Yes, but absolutely make sure it's new!!! There's a lot of electronic and mechanical precision built into that machine. Also, if you chance on a used model, you'll likely have to buy new mats and blades, so that's a total-cost consideration.
The Amazon price of $130, including prime shipping, is reasonable, I think ... but figure another $25 for the program upgrade (that's not reasonable ![]() Gene K |
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