#41
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The tail section looks great Ricardo, and nicely detailed. The tragedy of the rudder petals is that it takes quite a bit of skill to mate them seamlessly but the result will almost be entirely hidden.
Cheers, Erik |
#42
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Thanks for the comments
@ Don W - I built the F-4 version the T-2 wingspan is noticeably bigger. The wing is full of high lift devices, modeled separately. I’ll get there… @ Erik - that's the point The wheels were modeled using the rolled paper method. They are the same in the T-2 and the F-4. |
#43
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WOW wonderful wheels!!!
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#44
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Thanks, Tonino
As you can see, the nose structure has many parts that, for those who don’t get the laser cut set, take time to cut. On the “plus” side, both the exhausts and the radiator can only get to the desired places. |
#45
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The spinner has very large openings for the 3 blades. The part at the base of each blade has to be aligned carefully so that all the blades make a similar angle to the propeller axle.
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#46
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Quote:
Great details. I like it! Isaac
__________________
My gallery [http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery...v-r-6&cat=500] Recent buildsMeteor F1, Meteor F8, Mig-Ye8, NA Sabre, A-4E Skyhawk,Mig-15 red, Mig-17 repaint |
#47
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That's a very complicated nose! Halinski really loves internal structures. The prop blades came out very nicely. There's a lot of very fine and patient work required for this part! It reminds me of something. You can check out the latest installment on the Hurricane to find out what crossed my mind....
Cheers, Erik |
#48
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@ Isaac – thanks It is all too easy to put excessive pressure when gluing the blade skin parts and get an airfoil section similar to Saturn viewed from the side. Shaping before gluing is definitely recommended!
@ Erik – I confess not to care about how freely the propeller can rotate. With just a pin and paper parts, the friction is relatively high. With a brass pipe, it can be better Regarding centering, the propeller hub has a tightly rolled paper part inside, with just the space for the pin to pass. This way, I assure that the pin is pretty perpendicular to the hub formers. Well, 12 cylinders equate to 12 exhaust pipes. Tedious work, here, somewhat facilitated with inside paper bits and rolled parts. |
#49
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Very time consuming, and the most exalted type of work.... What do use for edge/inside coloring, Ricardo? Felt markers or paint? The inside grey color seems to match the outside print very well. Are the roll-ins and other paper bits part of the model or "experience aided design", rather than computer aided design ?
Regards, Erik |
#50
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@ Erik – Thanks for the questions I use felt markers, mostly Tombow dual brush pens but not only. I had to delaminate the exhaust parts. The paper takes a lot of ink very quickly and can get stained. A single and fast pass with the marker is needed to avoid that. The rolled paper bits are not part of the kit. They can be calculated very easily if you have the exact dimensions, which is not the case. So, it is a matter of trying. For cylindrical rolls, I have a set made from pre-defined paper strip lengths, to serve as templates. In this case, the rolls have a seed card rectangle to get the desired shape. You can spot them on yesterday's first picture.
As you can see, I glued the upper and lower skin parts together before assembling them to the fuselage structure. The fit was trouble free. |
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1/33, bf 109t-2, halinski |
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