#181
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Thanks Wyvern,
Due to previous research for business...i have quite a few (ok..ok i admit...a Ton load of MAREK models)...but i just cant resist new ones....Bomark, come on...i need more pics...not good every 15 mins..i am checking in..following this astonishing work of art. really beautiful. Finally got my cutting mat today.... going to try out that A6M5 zero 1:50 MM. Going to check Chris' ECardmodels site. By the way.. that building cube used to present models....where is that link?...i am trying to get it.
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to buy...or not to buy...damn you MAREK....damn you!!....ummm...can you make one more 1:50?? |
#182
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there's a freebie (in both metric and US) on eCardmodels... designed by Fitter.
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#183
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Our download section has a nice one too
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"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
#184
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I like that crescent illustration board, I've been using it for artwork for years, (25 or so) but the thicker variety so doesn't warp much with paints. Your build Bomarc looks super still, this will be an impressive model, as the components already are.
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regards Glen |
#185
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thanks Got it.....awsome! thanks rickstefand Wyvern
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to buy...or not to buy...damn you MAREK....damn you!!....ummm...can you make one more 1:50?? |
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#186
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#187
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By the way, Rasta mon, Chris posted some more Marek 1:50 models today!
Wyvern |
#188
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#189
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#190
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Man, for a moment there, I was having a flashback. All these reposting of older posts had me wondering if I really did finish those cowlings….the horror…the horror…
Anyway, I wanted to add some more about this mat board I like using. Tonight, just for reference, I put a caliper to the plain mat and it comes out at 0.055 inch thick (1.397mm), so not too much thicker that the 1mm the Eastern European model companies tend to recommend. With the parts sheet glued on, thickness only increases to 0.060", so we’re not even at 1/16th of inch yet. Just some numbers to keep in mind if you decide to try this stuff. You’ll have to compensate that difference in your slot cutting and the like, when it’s former cutting time. Cutting this stuff is pretty easy, and I’d like to show you a trick I use to cut circular shapes. I’ll use one of the upper nacelle formers, which is pretty small (those tiny pieces are always the hardest, right?): First, I make a rough cut around the edge, keeping about a 32nd of an inch (plus or minus) excess from the line. It's alway good to leave as much as you can on the bottom of the part to make it easier to hold on to: Then I dig the knife blade a little into the cutting mat, and start shaving off the excess to the line a little at a time: Short, curvy, strokes, not trying to remove too much with each cut. Just work your way around the part: And you’re done! The edge of this part won’t even need sanding, it’s already continuous and smooth: Also the edge is square, and that’s due to keeping the bade on the cutting mat, not the part. Obviously, a fresh blade is better than a used one for this, but this type of mat is pretty forgiving, and makes this method easy to reproduce: Mike
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"I learned long ago, never to wrestle with a pig. You get dirty, and besides, the pig likes it." - George Bernard Shaw Last edited by Bomarc; 09-10-2009 at 07:52 PM. Reason: Never ask me that again! |
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