Paper kits vs downloads

**smp** · #1 08-31-2020, 09:11 AM

At first I thought a paper card kit was the way to go since they would be printed on the correct weight card. However, after building a few downloads, I have always had to go back and reprint some parts because I messed up the first attempt.

I am still awaiting the arrival of my first two printed kits and I have a question. How does one handle the need to reprint some parts during the build and still respect the copyrights of the designer/publisher?

I am thinking of simply scanning the parts sheet before starting and hoping the scan is 100% or close enough to get a usable part if needed. Any better methods in use?
sp

**rickstef** · #2 08-31-2020, 09:26 AM

Buying two or more of the same kit would work well, the publishers and vendors would thank you, a lot.

But scanning the kit after you receive it is perfectly fine, just don't share the digital version.

**Kevin WS** · #3 08-31-2020, 10:20 AM

SP - as Rick says scan the kit before you build it. Something I always do - just in case.

Just remember - if you scan it you will never mess up a part. If you forget to scan it, for sure you will mess up a part!

Dont be dismayed at the paper thickness when the kits come - it sometimes looks to be too thin, but always works out fine.

**CMDRTED** · #4 08-31-2020, 01:00 PM

if you scan the kit place rulers in the x/y axis some scanners and then printers give you odd scales when you re print the errant part.

**Dragos** · #5 09-01-2020, 12:41 PM

The printed kit have usually a waterproof ink, the quality is much better compared to a ordinary ink-jet printer when you are using PVA as glue...more than this, some times a scan doesn't have the same quality of the colors as the original...just my opinion...

**Kevin WS** · #6 09-01-2020, 01:00 PM

I can't stand inkjet - laser print any day!

**smp** · #7 09-01-2020, 02:01 PM

I received my DH.2 kit in the mail today and I see what was meant about the lighter paper. I have been using much heavier cardstock.

Affording a laser printer is out of the question at this point, so I am stuck with inkjet. I have a larger ink jet printer capable of handling A4 paper, so it will get dug out, dusted off and new cartridges installed. I don't recall if it scans as well as prints, but I will find out.

I suppose each way, (preprinted kit or download), has it's up and down sides. I like having a preprinted kit to hand as it answers a lot of general questions I had, but I do feel less nervous cutting parts that are easily reprintable if, (when), the need arises.

sp

**Lex** · #8 09-01-2020, 02:23 PM

Laserjet print tend to produce very reflective finish on dark colours. This may or may not be a problem, but bear in mind that most kits are completely matt.

Pigment ink is completely waterproof and resistant to UV, for inkjet printing cardmodels it is a must-have. Check the printer specification on whether it uses pigment or dye ink. Pigment ink printers are more difficult to maintain and the inks are more expensive, but has my full recommendation for their purpose.

There is also the issue of colour matching. Unless you have the colour profiles set up professionally, you will need some trial-and-error to match the scanned part's colour. It is mostly a necessary evil...

**altomentis** · #9 09-01-2020, 04:20 PM

If you are printing kits at a print shop, it is probably less expensive to buy two. Even at US $0.50 a page printing gets expensive fast.

If you can print at home, an inkjet printer that uses pigment ink is good. I got the Canon Maxify and it is amazing how waterproof the prints are. I am using third party refill inks for the cost savings.

**smp** · #10 09-01-2020, 06:48 PM

.I am afraid I am stuck with using what I have. Fortunately the 5 models I have built, (3 planes, 1 ship and a Cutsie Cockatiel figure) all came out fine and buildable when printed to fit on my cheapie Walmart HP Envy 5052. Pure dumb luck...and glad to have had it.

I print on photo paper of various sheens and spray each parts page with Krylon clear of a matching sheen. I have also used regular typing paper for parts that make up thin rolled tubes. I have 176 g/sm cardstock, but use that less and less. I do like the ability to clean glue and most paints off the sprayed photo paper. Photo paper also takes embossing from the back side well which is important to me as I am primarily interested in fabric covered aircraft.

sp