P-35 From Modelik 1/33rd

[modelperry]

Originally Posted by T haf

I've built a few modelik in my time, and have been left wanting more in regards to the artwork of the model. Did this one offer some variety in colors/weathering in the print?

I can answer this one.

I don't think I have ever seen a Modelik model with any sort of texturing to depict color variety or weathering. I believe the publisher leaves that up to the modeler to depict as desired.

This is quite a different philosophy from other publishers like GPM, Orlik and Halinski, who do add texture to most of theirs.

Greg

[smithdr]

Originally Posted by T haf

I've been following your build.

If I may request as much, would you please answer a few questions I've got when you post your final photos.

What were some of the parts to the build that you found to be difficult to fit or shape correctly?


What is some detail that had you not been the one to build it, you'd not know it was a thing?

What tools other than standard knife and ruler did you find to be most useful?

I've built a few modelik in my time, and have been left wanting more in regards to the artwork of the model. Did this one offer some variety in colors/weathering in the print?

Regardless, your work is impressive. I've enjoyed following the build progress and seeing it come together. You've done a wonderful job with it. Perhaps next year if you're able to attend, bring it to the IPMC so we may admire the work you've put into it in person.

Have you got any ideas for the next kit???

Hello T and thanks for the comments!


Greg answered the art question and he is spot on. You can repaint these if you wish with an airbrush (in my case) or sometimes you can add some depth by post shading little areas to give the basic shades a bit more depth. I've done that on several models too.


I used sand paper, magic markers for edge coloring and super glue with accelerator for some parts seems to be handy. I also used a flat sanding block to get the butt joints closer together.



The toughest parts were the fuselage skins being a bit too long or the fuselage formers were a bit too small? Not sure but I did end up cutting the skins on each end about 1/16th -1/8th to get nice fits. Next time, I'd cut the formers outside the line rather than splitting it down the middle.



The various scoops and landing gear spats are hard since they curve two ways at once. The cuts in them helped a lot but I still can't get them as smooth as I'd like. I'm shooting for "Polish Smooth" as the Poles really seem to nail this type of construction and the petal designs too.


Finally, butt joints are not easy for me but I just made sure to form the adjoining pieces together. I like the tab construction better.


I was also amazed at how well things like the wing fillets fit. I assumed those would be a problem, but they went on smoothly! Again, this reflects very well on the original designer using rulers and a calculator!


I hope this helps!
Dan

[rmks2000]

Regarding scoops and spats, sometimes you can shape compound curves with a little moisture and a spoon. It depends on how much area you have to work with.

[smithdr]

Thanks, Bob. That's a great idea and I should probably give that a try!


You are wise! Merry Christmas to you and yours...Dan