#11
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You have immense skill, and it is a great pleasure to see your work step-by-step like this. It is an inspiration.
Don |
#12
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Thank you very much for your kind comments!
Preparing the masts for the top wing. I cut thin steel rods slightly longer than the length of the printed mats that serve as templates. Then strips of normal paper to the exact length that are folded in half. The paper strip is folded over itself trapping the metal rod ,wedged against the fold. The strip is then cut in width according to the printed template. Then it is painted the color of the mat and left to dry. The ends of the metal rod are cut off leaving only 1 to 2 mm protruding. Then the mat is glued with super glue by pushing the metal tip into the hole we had drilled earlier. The mast is then perfectly oriented in all axes by comparing with a 3 views drawing of the aircraft. After drying, the top wing is glued to the top of the masts in the pre-drilled holes. We check the alignments and let it dry. It's thin and very strong. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) |
#13
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Jan! Glad to see you back my friend! With marvelous step by step build with many tips and hints for advanced papermodelling! Weel done my friend!
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#14
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#15
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Marvelous! Very inspirational!
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#16
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Thank you my friend!
Before starting the difficult part of the assembly, the rigging, I will relax a bit with the assembly of the 1/200 variant. Why a 1/200 Camel Comic? First of all to provide a valid opponent to one of my old mounts which is at 1/200, a redecorated Zeppelin from Schreiber. ON THE HUNT! Incidentally, a 1/200 Camel can represent a 1/3 scale radio controlled model (small big one) in a 1/72 diorama. |
#17
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That's just fantastic! Love it...Dan
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#18
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For the bracing, I use black glove sewing thread. It's very thin, lint free because it's glazed, much easier to use than nylon thread. I like the black color which stands out well but you can dye the thread, for example in silver by slipping it in a cloth impregnated with Rub and buff.
You take a good length because it is the same thread that will be pulled as much long as possible. You tie it with a loop around a first anchor point. The loop is secured with a dot of super glue, the shiny trace of which will be removed later with a drop of matte varnish. You continue from mast to mast by wrapping around and positioning the wire with a fine clip and then placing a micro drop of glue. Of course, you copy the pattern onto a plan and views of the actual device. At the end, the remaining ends of the wire are cut with fine scissors. |
#19
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awesome build well done
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#20
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