#11
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Good start Ricardo.
Looking forward to the continuation of your wonderful work. YOAV |
#12
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Thanks for the comments, friends Yes, Martin-Baker, nowadays, is best known for the ejection seats. Regarding the "test pilot", brrrr!
@Draco – good link! I particularly appreciated the picture with a collection of aircraft, all in british markings. The pictures show tabs added to ease the assembly of the front fuselage. They take some space, meaning that the formers must be trimmed accordingly. To me, the nose formers, in this case, serve to keep the shape, which is defined by the skin parts, and could be discarded. Elsewhere in the kit, a solid card structure may be much more useful... |
#13
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nice work Ricleite
__________________
David........... Paper modelling gives you a happy high. currently building. c GAZ 51 ALG 17, wagon 111a. unex DH411 excavator and spitfire Mk 9 |
#14
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I see why you did the prop first.
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Fred Bultman |
#15
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Ahhhhhh...Ricardo is back! Checking on progress every few minutes.
Dan |
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#16
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Agree about formers in tight spaces - it's rare to have a kit where they can be cut on the lines and fit in exactly, and if they require trimming we can't be sure anymore that the profile is correct. If the tabs line up the parts will have the correct shape and with a double skin and decent tabs there is not really any problem with warping or damage from being handled.
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Currently in the hanger: Thaipaperwork Martin B-26 'Flak-Bait' In the shipyard: JSC barkentine 'Pogoria' Recently completed: TSMC F-16, S&P Kawanishi N1K1 Kyofu diorama |
#17
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Hello Ricardo,
good to see you again working on a plane! Are you planing to post in the two german paper-model forum? We miss you and your great work there. Cheers Wiwo |
#18
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Thank you all
@Fred – yes, I wanted to know exactly what I had to fix in order to better devise how to fix it. You surely noted the large paper roll inside the front fuselage @Siwi – right! We are never quite sure where to cut. I tend to cut the formers inside the line, in order to have some room to maneuver. Halinski kits tend to be very reliable in this respect, but I have found different criteria on other publishers, sometimes from the same publisher and even in the same kit! Well, that’s how life is. @Wiwo – I never stopped building planes but I did make a pause in showing models, as the time I dedicate to the forums is rather limited (much more than building…). Regrettably, I lost access to the German forum (my fault, yet again). So, the plan, for the time being, is to continue publishing here and you can be sure that there is no lack of subject. I keep “processing” more than 7000 parts a year, not counting rivets and other extras... The rear wheel is solid. That makes it easier to put a wire inside, in order to strengthen the link to the fuselage. Regarding the ailerons, the kit solution is standard. The back tab eases the assembly and makes for a stiffer and more regular trailing edge. I always use cellulosic (all-purpose) glue for these large surfaces, as water-based white glue can easily cause distortions. |
#19
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The horizontal tail surfaces are designed like in Halinski kits, and much to my taste. Note the bit of rolled paper near the tip. It helps to get a satisfactory shape. Orlik’s paper, at least in this kit, is rather thick but lends itself well to the kind of shaping you can see in the pictures.
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#20
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That empennage reflects your usual very high level of paper modeling skill!
Don |
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Tags |
1/33, mb-5, orlik |
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