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  #11  
Old 12-20-2022, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siwi View Post
Avoiding a join line at the bottom is something I would like to see more of. Particularly on WW2 era fighters, this is often where the profile curve is most extreme and the paper hardest to join tightly and neatly. There was often not even a panel line there anyway.
My initial thought of the technique used by Yoav on this Meteor was that a single seam along the demarcation line was good enough. However, making a seam along any panel line is probably better than one on the bottom.

But,,,,,,,, every model section may have a different seam location. While geometrically it makes no difference where the seam is located, it will make the rendering and coloring a bit more challenging. I do see it as a worthwhile method that should be adopted by more designers.


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  #12  
Old 12-20-2022, 10:49 PM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac View Post
My initial thought of the technique used by Yoav on this Meteor was that a single seam along the demarcation line was good enough. However, making a seam along any panel line is probably better than one on the bottom.

But,,,,,,,, every model section may have a different seam location. While geometrically it makes no difference where the seam is located, it will make the rendering and coloring a bit more challenging. I do see it as a worthwhile method that should be adopted by more designers.


Isaac


Hi Isaac, how are you?
The model is progressing very nicely, nice work.



Regarding the connections on the sides of the model (this is also the case with engines)

I decided to hide the seams on both sides of the body where the panel joins are, to avoid a seam along the bottom of the model, which I do in all my models in 1:30 scale.

I could only make one seam on one side of the model where there is a panel connection, but for me it was not symmetrical and on one side the seam would be more visible than on the other side, so I preferred to divide the part in two, with the belly being one part and the upper part being the second part.....a little more work, but the result is better and more symmetrical between the left and right sides of each part.

In models (like MYSTERE and SUPER MYSTERE) where the canopy continues along the entire upper part up to the stabilizer, I of course make one long connection along the entire back of the model.

Happy Hanooka

YOAV
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2022, 10:32 AM
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Yoav

My first build using the wrong paper did not like the double seam on the sides because it did not round and bend well and the joints were very harsh looking.

However, the current paper I am using on this build is very pliable and allows for a much smoother joints, so it matters not if there is a single or a double joint.

Thank you and wishing all my friends in Israel a happy Hannukah חנוכה שמח

May we all know peace and not hate!


Isaac
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2022, 10:55 PM
YOAVHOZMI YOAVHOZMI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac View Post
Yoav

My first build using the wrong paper did not like the double seam on the sides because it did not round and bend well and the joints were very harsh looking.

However, the current paper I am using on this build is very pliable and allows for a much smoother joints, so it matters not if there is a single or a double joint.

Thank you and wishing all my friends in Israel a happy Hannukah חנוכה שמח

May we all know peace and not hate!


Isaac

It is possible to work with any type of paper with the method of the double seam on both sides, it all depends on the work method and the method of designing the part.

It is necessary to first round the parts and then glue the lower part to the upper part.

In the pictures you presented, it can be seen that first you glue one side of the lower part to the upper part, and only then you circle the part and tap the seam from the other side.
I do not recommend this method anyway, because it can cause asymmetry between the 2 sides of the piece and make the last glued seam coarser.


YOAV
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  #15  
Old 12-21-2022, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOAVHOZMI View Post
It is possible to work with any type of paper with the method of the double seam on both sides, it all depends on the work method and the method of designing the part.

It is necessary to first round the parts and then glue the lower part to the upper part.

In the pictures you presented, it can be seen that first you glue one side of the lower part to the upper part, and only then you circle the part and tap the seam from the other side.
I do not recommend this method anyway, because it can cause asymmetry between the 2 sides of the piece and make the last glued seam coarser.


YOAV

I will print a test piece to use your rounding first method and then gluing the bottom to the top on two sides.

Thanks for the tip



Isaac
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  #16  
Old 12-22-2022, 03:32 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Hi Isaac, good start and progress. The choice of paper is very important, especially when printing a kit yourself. Interesting discussion regarding the location of the seams. But experience has taught me that seams can be made virtually invisible, simply by using white glue to join the mating strip and carefully embossing the joint when the glue is still not completely dry yet. As finishing touch, to mask any glue spill, a bit of varnish on the completed model.

Keep up the good work,
Erik
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  #17  
Old 12-22-2022, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Zwaan View Post
Hi Isaac, good start and progress. The choice of paper is very important, especially when printing a kit yourself. Interesting discussion regarding the location of the seams. But experience has taught me that seams can be made virtually invisible, simply by using white glue to join the mating strip and carefully embossing the joint when the glue is still not completely dry yet. As finishing touch, to mask any glue spill, a bit of varnish on the completed model.

Keep up the good work,
Erik
That's a good idea of using a tool to round and soften the joint tabs.

Thanks

Isaac
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2022, 04:17 PM
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Exclamation Nose gear bay

As stated, none of Yoav's designs has a landing gear. I decided to use an old bay from an old FLY models meteor Mk3. However, it is bad, wrong and even enlarged was marginal. I used it anyway because I had no patience to design and render a new one ( I wish someone else could do it all ).


Anyhow

parts to be cut
Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7857.jpgMeteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7858.jpg

Somehow it appears that the cutout is too wide for the needed landing gear. Will check later
Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7865.jpgMeteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7866.jpg

add weight for balancing on the gear later on.
Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7867.jpg

Ready
Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7868.jpg it really looks too wide of a cutout in my opinion.


I will lightly paint it later



Isaac
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  #19  
Old 12-23-2022, 04:19 PM
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Exclamation Nose section ready

Here it is so far

Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7869.jpg

Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7870.jpg


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  #20  
Old 12-23-2022, 04:20 PM
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Exclamation Fuselage joined

Now join the fuselage along the cockpit section

Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7871.jpgMeteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7872.jpgMeteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7873.jpg

Meteor F8-Yoav design in 1/30 Take 2-img_7874.jpg

Isaac
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