#21
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Quote:
I'm close to making my own canopy plugs with Sculpey, and I will polish mine before I mold. For what it's worth, here's how I'm going to do it: On the back side of the mold, I'm going to drill a hole and super glue in a 1/4" dowel which I will then clamp in a vise. Then I'm going to take a strip of cloth, and using some automotive rubbing/polishing compound, start buffing it the same way a shoe shine guy would shine your shoes at the airport. Since it's a smash mold, it doesn't require a mirror finish; just smooth it down enough to get any glaring imperfections out. Mike
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#22
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Like Greg, I haven't had to polish my Sculpey forms at all. A simple sanding to an even surface is all that's necessary.
I find that rubbing compounds and even polishing compounds can leave scratches in the material, so if you're serious about a shiny finish, I would avoid compounds. I've been using Sculpey and other polyclays since the mid-70s. The easiest way of getting a sheen on the material is to buff it on an old pair of denims. You'd be surprised at how good a gloss you can get his way. Buffing wheels work fantastically and you can get a glass like finish to a good polyclay, but you need to avoid using too much pressure as it can melt the surface. But just to repeat, you don't need a satin finish to pull a canopy, just a smooth surface. Chris |
#23
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If all else fails use the old stand-by, molding plaster.
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#24
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The Stuka is coming!!!!!!!!
I finished the Stuka tonight (technically last night- it's really late). I'll have pictures and a wrap up of work for you then. I'm off the bed :p |
#25
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First up, the Stuka has legs
I also scratched a tail wheel (I lost the provided one) Here's the canopy mold prior to sanding. I used Sculpy to make the form. I like this method. It's pretty straight forward I discovered that it was very difficult to get the entire canopy piece formed with the things I had. So, I made a mold for the center section as well Here's my basic set-up. I used the wooden tower thing to elevate the mold so I could pull down on the form enough to get the plastic to cover the entire thing. Heating the plastic. I used some packaging from my son's new Cars toys I ended up having to use the big mold to make separate pieces for the front and back glass. I couldn't get the plastic to take the shape of the entire mold The center glass section after molding The front glass section The back glass section |
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#26
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Here's the finished pieces. I used sticker paper to make the frames for the glass
Center Front glass Front sliding canopy Rear glass The whole canopy |
#27
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Armament
My next step was to make the rear machine gun. First I heated up a paper clip and poked the hole through the glass.
Then, I rolled some typing paper around the clip to make the body of the gun. It's not great by any means, but it's okay for me. Gun installed The bomb Bomb rack Completed rack w/ bomb |
#28
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Completion!
Here's the finished plane. I added the props, canopy, and bomb
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#29
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You did it! Here's to the completion of another Stuka model! The open canopy sure makes a huge difference on this model. Congratulations!
I should point out though, that the bomb release arm is misplaced. The two front ends of it should be in the two gray areas forward of the bomb and the "X" of the arm should be in front of the bomb so that the arms of the bomb wind up just forward of the center of the bomb. Because of the near vertical dive of the Stuka, the long release arm was needed to swing the bomb out and away from the plane to clear the props. Other than that, it looks fantastic. I meant to ask you, your colors look much more accurate than the Kelly green mine turn out to be. Did you fiddle with the colors? Chris |
#30
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Thank you very much for the details on how you made the canopy parts!
That makes me want to try one myself!
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