#1
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Miles M-20 in 1/72 scale
I love Der Kampfflieger's models so I was over joyed to find this one in our free downloads section.
The Miles M-20 was Britons back up plan should all of their Spitfires get shot down. This plane was designed to be built quick, with products on hand. Fix gear meant no hydraulics, and a bubble canopy meant good vision. The eight (with room for 12!) machine guns made it capable of dealing with bombers. The fact that only two of these planes were built mans that Britain was not yet close to running out of plans by the time the Battle over Briton was over. I did have minor trouble with this model, a first with this designer. It could just be me, but the nose seems off. The print and the part seems a bit off on the nose, I fixed this by simply painting the whole nose black. Everything else seems to go together quite well!:D The spinner came out really good though, my first peddle style spinner! The fixed gear with the "pants" look hard, and I will do that tomorrow. Tonight it is off to scouts! CT |
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#2
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Ha! What a cool kit! Thank you for posting...<S>
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wily "I interview WW2 pilots and draw their airplanes." My website: www.johnmollison.com My blog: www.ww2fighters.blogspot.com |
#3
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You continue working fast!!!
Quote:
1/72 Miles M.20 He doesn't mention nothing about the nose . |
#4
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Don's skills are far beyond mine, and I do not know what I did wrong, but there was no way I could get my nose piece to line up, with out th curve being on the top rather then the bottom. To get the curved chin profile, I turned it 180 degrees. As I said, it was as likely as not, my mistake. Even so, the rest of the model is going fine. I am concerned about the landing gear though. They look hard to make, but we shall see.
CT |
#5
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You can do it, CT! With all your work on those tiny ACW ship parts, those spatted landing gear should be easy!
Wyvern |
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#6
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Thanks Wyvern, but in many ways, designing is easier then building! But, I will do what I can and learn from it for the next Model! I also have Pine Wood derby cars to do today!
CT |
#7
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Unfortunately your photos are gone CT, otherwise I might have been able to tell what went wrong with your nose section. If you can repost them, that would be great. The spats are buildable, but definitely a pain with all the little slits and compound curves. I used 60 lb stock. Anything heavier will present problems for you I think. Here's a trick for installing the wheels: before you cut out the spats, make a template of their curved top profile. When you laminate the tire to heavier card (I used 1mm card) cut out the bottom (visible) section of the tire normally. The top half should be left with excess material that you will then trim to match the profile of the spat. Then just apply glue to the top edge of this extended, profiled wheel piece, and glue right into the opening in the spat (sounds more confusing than it is).
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#8
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Cool. That is an excellent idea about the spats. I painted the nose black so I do not think you can see much, but basically the seam line on my model ended up on top, and the cammo section that was supposed to be the top is on the bottom. That is the only way to get the up curved chin under the air intake. As I said, like as not my misunderstanding, but I am sure confused! It looked fin upside down except for the colors being reversed. I will try to get some better photos as well. Thanks,
CT |
#9
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Since it's basically a "what if" aircraft anyway, I think your black-painted cowl looks great.
Wyvern |
#10
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Sure sounds like the frontmost (nose) skin was installed upside down on your model. The camo should be on the top and the yellow on the bottom. The chin piece goes on after the nose skin is formed, and it's installed as oriented on the parts sheet. There are black guidelines on the nose skin to indicate where the chin piece is to be placed.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
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