|
|
|
#21
07-15-2007, 10:18 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I would go photo paper.
Done properly, it totally fools the unwary! It also increases the "I can't believe its paper" factor tenfold!! (Plus I would also like to see what the finished model will look like in photo paper). 
|
|
#22
07-16-2007, 12:49 AM
|
||||
|
||||
Rick,
I'm happy to hear you're planning to build the Dolphin! I used the cheap Epson glossy photo paper for mine. It was about $20 for a 100 sheet pack at Costco a few years ago. I still have a bunch of it left, so I just mic'd it out at .009" [0.23mm] thick. This thickness worked well for me. I had to scrape off the gloss of a few tabs, but that was no big deal. How thick is the 38lb [141g/m2] photo paper you have? As I recall, for the prop blades and other parts on the sheet with the blades I used regular old 110lb cardstock. Glad I found this site! Roger
|
|
#23
07-16-2007, 06:26 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
ya know,
this is the second time since I have printed the sheets for the helicopter, that I have mentioned that I wanted to build the model. Builder's ADD? Hmmmm....... will need to research it Rick
__________________
"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo
|
|
#24
07-16-2007, 06:59 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
OK, the Mi-2. Then the Coast Guard version.
About photo paper... there are actually now two basic sorts available. The traditional is paper with a plastic coating. When the ink hits the surface it beads up thereby allowing a lot ink to be put down precisely and giving nicer, richer colors. However, it really is not designed for shaping and the coating could possibly break. Personally, I am wary of the thought, but we never move forward without experimentation. I'm happy if you are the guinea pig! A big problem with that older sort of photo paper is that it generally is not water proof... even less than plain paper which isn't at all - except for some versions of Epson ink. Also it takes a while to dry since the ink isn't soaking into the paper and thus cannot be handled for a while after printing. There is a move now to more immediately handlable (?) photos which is achieved with a newer "paper" that is absorbant to the ink. This photo material is actually all synthetic and is porous. The inks soak right into the paper and it is almost waterproof. The difficulty is that you need to get an ink system that works with it and there are not many around just yet. There will be several within the next twelve months however. Somebody will need to scout the workability of this stuff for our community. It feels strange to the touch and doesn't seem to want to fold easily. OK, I'll shut up about ink and paper now and wait for you to show us some goodies! Carl
|
|
#25
07-23-2007, 03:45 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
can't comment on photo paper - never tried it - but I did build the CG version using 65# stock and makes a nice model. If you like helicopters, give Fiddeler'sGreen a try. They have a nice line of early birds. Not overly detailed, but make a nice looking collection.
Later,
__________________
Fred Zealor Air Show Announcer
|
| Google Adsense |
|
#26
07-31-2007, 10:27 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Try matte photo paper. The colors are intense, no problem with the finish or any of the other issues with glossy stock. It takes glue very well. I use Canon paper, but have had success with Epson and Adorama matte as well. It is about the same thickness as normal card stock, and that might be a problem with models below 1:33 scale. Thanks to Roman Detyna (Digital Navy) for the tip; it's how he does all his builds.
Bill
|
|
#27
08-01-2007, 01:17 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
This is what I use: Xerox Digital Plus.
Print the model on a color laser. Superb colors. Superb brightness. Compare the P-51 vs Bf 109 (Xerox on laser vs normal bright paper on laser). Disclosure: Xerox is not paying me for this recommendation (they should though :D)
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
