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  #81  
Old 06-03-2012, 05:39 PM
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mchale mchale is offline
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i have but the ink would not drie and when i touched it it smeared
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  #82  
Old 06-04-2012, 11:41 AM
Lacc Lacc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjectKITT View Post
By the way, when you guys print windows onto clear plastic what kind do you use? I've always wondered that but never asked...
I have a material called "Printable projector foil". It's just like a simple transparent foil, the difference is, it has very-very small "dots" on the surface, that's why it's printable. Only this way it's not 100% clear.
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  #83  
Old 06-04-2012, 03:56 PM
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ProjectKITT ProjectKITT is offline
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Mchale, I've had the same problem printing onto transparency paper (not sure exactly what kind): it would not dry. I found a roll of some similar sheet plastic (also not sure what it was) and it worked fairly well; as long as I didn't rub it too hard, the ink would stay.

Lacc, thanks for sharing I'll try looking that up. 100% clear might not be a problem if the windows are designed to have a little tint to them anyway.
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  #84  
Old 06-04-2012, 04:26 PM
zeawolves77 zeawolves77 is offline
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found a tips from yahoo answer:
Can Inkjet printers print on clear plastic sheets? - Yahoo! Answers

thanks Lacc for sharing, I'll note that one :D
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  #85  
Old 06-05-2012, 02:05 PM
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spencermitchellmusic spencermitchellmusic is offline
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I always print on transparancy paper (the kind that you use for overhead projectors. You know the old fashond kind with the light bulb and mirror). They work the best because one side is scuffed or has some sort of very subtle texture to it so that the ink sticks. I have used it for a while and never had a problem with it. I am not sure how easy it is to find now. I have a life time supply from the hospital I used to work at. When everything was switched from overhead projectors to digital projectors they were just going to throw away boxes of this stuff. I grabbed enough to last me quite a while.
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  #86  
Old 06-06-2012, 03:27 PM
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ProjectKITT ProjectKITT is offline
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Thanks for all the info guys

Another thing I've been wondering about is the tabs: do any of you have a preference on where they are located? For example, I've seen tires that have tabs on either the tread or sidewall. Probably not a big difference but does one way seem to be easier than another? Or something like having the tread and sidewalls attached (like in my PDFs) or separate pieces (like most others I see).

Any thoughts on anything like that? I ask because I won't be able to test build any more models before releasing the finished version...
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  #87  
Old 06-06-2012, 04:31 PM
zeawolves77 zeawolves77 is offline
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I'm just finished building a set of tire (diameter around 0.35cm).
The pattern don't have any tabs with it. I found it easier to build it using tabs on thread, while the sidewalls attached to the thread will indeed helps a lot to have a near perfect round shape of the tire.
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  #88  
Old 06-12-2012, 08:11 PM
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ProjectKITT ProjectKITT is offline
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Okay Zeawolves, I'll make the tires like that. I've found it easier to have the sidewall attached to the tread as well, one less thing I have to hold while it dries

With some help I have been trying to learn Inkscape. It's slow going but I am making progress! I also started working with the interior in 3D but that will take a little time; for now I'll concentrate on the vector drawings
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  #89  
Old 06-12-2012, 09:49 PM
zeawolves77 zeawolves77 is offline
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nice one, ProjectKITT for the tire's tabs.

can't wait to see the finished interior. will keep monitoring this thread. take your time.
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  #90  
Old 06-13-2012, 12:17 AM
kingjason14 kingjason14 is offline
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This is awesome!, and that is coming from a Mustang guy.
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