#11
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Thanks everyone!
I used to airbrush Future Floor Wax as a clear gloss coat way back when I built plastic models. I got a super smooth shine with out sanding. I'll try it on paper and see what happens. Future doesn't exist anymore, but I think it's called Pledge Floor Gloss now. I just got to go find a bottle. Quote:
Nice, babis08! Very cool. I might try that sometime, but more for the 3D than for the moving part. |
#12
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Good work. Thanks for reminding me about their site, they've added a lot since the last time I was there (as if I need more).
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#13
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Update - Clear Coat Applied
It's been a while but I finally got around to clear coat the car. I used Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss (formerly called Future Floor Wax).
I airbrushed direct from the bottle, no thinning required. I wasn't sure how the paper would react so I applied very light coats, going a little thicker each time with about 5min dry time between coats. In the end, I applied about 7 coats with the last fairly heavy. Pledge has pretty good self-leveling properties so a thicker final coat helped with the smoothness. I read that brushing on the wax also works, but that's on plastic. Not sure how that would work on paper. Another experiment? Pros: - Easy application - Easy cleanup with water - Paper held up well (176gsm in this case) - Decent finish Cons: - I print with a color laser and find that white areas (aka bare paper with no toner) tend to absorb the floor wax and don't get very shiny. I don't know how ink jet will react. - Paper texture will show through. Ideally the surface to be cleared should be as smooth as possible at the start. Even the smoothest paper will have texture. So, no mirror finish... But overall, I think the experiment was a success and would do it again. |
#14
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I have sprayed a very fine gloss clear paint over a laser-printed surface and the result is a very shiny look that’s so satisfying. Perhaps you can consider it?
Last edited by papermate; 06-22-2021 at 07:37 PM. Reason: Typo |
#15
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Oh yes, I will definitely consider it. Thanks!
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#16
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Have you tried hot laminating the templates first and then build the car? I would like to show you the first car that I built in 2011 using hot laminated templates. After ten years, the model was covered with grime and dust but I cleaned it with a wet cloth, yes, a wet cloth, to wipe off the dust, especially the grime collected over the years, and have resumed its glossiness. I don't think you can do it on paper even though it is covered with wax or clear paint.
How? I printed the templates on normal 80gsm printing paper, standard print, (you don't need high quality print because after laminating the colour saturation is good enough) and then take two pages of the template, back to back, and just glued the corners a little bit. Then, I took them to an output shop that did hot laminate. After taking the laminated templates home, I cut the laminated sheets close to the edge and separate it. One side is the laminated template and the back is paper that can be glued. Built the model as usual using UHU glue and instant glue where necessary like curves and non-straight lines and parts that resisted folding, twisting and curving etc. You build beautiful model cars and I trust you'd like to see them shine and look glossy even after a decade or more, wouldn't you? Do excuse me if it looks like I'm hijacking your thread. |
#17
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No worries, I like learning new methods.
I have not thought of laminating before. I will look into this for sure. I see more experimenting in the future... Thank you for sharing. Your Peugeot looks great! 10years, wow! |
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