#11
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Other suggestions are shellac, sanding sealer or airplane dope (if you can find a hobby shop that still carries it). They can be a bit smelly and irritating but nothing like CA.
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#12
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If I needed to do this, the first thing I would try would be hide glue but more diluted (with water) than I would use for normal gluing (of wood). Theoretically, it can be heated in a water bath but I find a proper electrical glue pot much more convenient.
I haven't tried it but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work. It smells a bit and you'd need ventilation but it's not a "toxic" smell and I think it's probably the glue that poses the least health hazard.
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https://laurence-finston.de/ https://www.gnu.org/software/3dldf/ https://laurence-finston.shop/ https://www.deviantart.com/laurencefinston Last edited by Laurence Finston; 05-05-2023 at 12:53 PM. |
#13
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Lots of great information in this thread.
Thanks for asking the question, Bob! Don |
#14
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I'm not sure whether these possibilities have been suggested yet, but two more things that occurred to me are wallpaper paste and plain flour paste (diluted). A potential problem with hide glue or flour paste is that they would be edible for insects. I'm not sure whether they would attack hide glue unless it had been exposed to moisture for a long time, but I'm pretty sure they'd go for the paste even in a dry state. However, if the objects were stored in a cool dry place without too much exposure to light and not where insects were likely to be found, I think they would be sufficiently permanent.
It might be possible to "insect-proof" them somewhat (there is no such thing as complete insect-proofing) by adding a few drops of something like oil of cloves to the glue. In the past, people used formaldehyde, but I would strongly recommend not using it for this purpose. However, I agree that building the structure up by molding with just paper (in effect, papier-mâché) is probably the best way to to this. Shellac is one of my favorite materials and I think it might work well, except that I'd be worried about how the alcohol would affect the paper. It would be worth testing, however. |
#15
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Quote:
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Ryan Short Aerial / Commercial Photographer at www.RedWingAerials.com Models for sale at: www.lbirds.com and a few more that I'm looking for a place to sell them again. |
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#16
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Quote:
I don't think it's likely to be a problem, but if the object is meant to be permanent (which is a relative term), then I think it's something to consider. For anything "serious", I would always recommend clamping or pressing it after gluing, but this isn't always possible, e.g., for freeform shapes. |
#17
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Mike |
#18
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Hi All,
I agree with Don Boose when he writes about all the interesting suggestions seen on this thread. Has Ambroid been mentioned yet? Someone usually mentions Ambroid. Hi mbauer and thanks for you kind remarks. The parts for my 1/32 scale Sopwith Triplane were drawn out with technical pen on paper, (old-school) and copied onto 67 lb. cardstock. I colored it with watercolors and keep it in a dehumidified basement away from sunlight. A dressmaker’s pin fits through the wooden propeller and runs through a brass tube in the rotary engine, allowing the prop and engine to rotate in place. The photographs below show a 1/32 Fokker D-VIII I built about the same time. Score and fold, Thumb Dog |
#19
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Hope this isn't wandering off-topic, but the discussion about glue had me wondering if it might be possible to create clear canopies by putting glue over a mould, if it would dry acceptably clear?
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Currently in the hanger: Thaipaperwork Martin B-26 'Flak-Bait' In the shipyard: JSC barkentine 'Pogoria' Recently completed: TSMC F-16, S&P Kawanishi N1K1 Kyofu diorama |
#20
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Thank you for sharing. Mike |
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