#31
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Each iron bar would have been 10 inches wide by 20 feet long and 2 inches thick. The bars were put on the Palmetto State in two layers. This would be two layers of 1.397 mm card on a perfectly scaled model. The model needs to be layered with two layers of bars because of the curve of the knuckle. Their would have been a real slight gap on between the bars at the knuckle edge to make the cureve so the second layer would overlap this.
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#32
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I have been sent the first shots of the vessel, and know this, she is and will be a winner too anyone interested in CSS vessels.:DRick
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#33
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Here is a diagram of what I intend for the casement. The thing is held up with frames of 1mm thickness, with the top "beams" doubled. The inside will have a printed inner wall of white boards. The out side will be a plain card stock cover to support the "armor" bars. Only the wood colored beams will show. The model maker may cut out any number of wall beams and corresponding walls to create a cut a way view, or leave all of the framers and leave off the inner wall and outer wall for a given length to make the inside visible. I hav about 1/2 of th frames done, I will gt the other half in the morning if my kid dose not require too much attention during home school. He is on a part that he mostly dose himself. Any how...
CT |
#34
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Just an up date. the kit so far has 15 pages of parts. The casement has 41 formers, an inner wall and outer wall, a top deck pieces, plus opening boarders for the top deck openings. As soon as I get the last of the casement stuff done and the guns done then the Water line model will have all of the parts needed. Not all of these parts would be needed if a guy was only doing an exterior model. The inner wall and about 1/2 of the casement formers could be avoided, along with all of the inside details, but hay, what fun would that be!
I am at about 300 parts done at this time. I sure hope that they all fit! Not counting the armor bars and wooden planks, I am thinking it will fall in around 1000 parts. Wow, I hope they all fit! here is a view of the cament framers. The wood colored parts form the overhead beams and are seen, the legs will be sandwiched between the inner wall and the armor baring wall on the outside. CT |
#35
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Man, did you ever do what we asked, above and beyond what I expected. I can not wait to see what you do with the big guns.Rick
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#36
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yah, working on the guns now. I am also making a simpified 1/250 scale waterline model of this ship too, and started another thread on it. If anyone wants to do the 1-250 model and post build pictures on that thread, just PM me with your mail. I had to take a break from all these framers on this big model! Any how...on to this one.
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#37
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Just finished printing up what I have so far of this outstanding model. All I can say is she is going to be a beauty. And big enough for the detailers to go to town with. I like the colors too. Looking forward to the rest of the kit. I printed on Bristol to give it that classic print look like you get from a comic book print. This worked really well. I have discovered by using different types of card, I can get different looks to the models finish. Just have to make sure you keep the paper weight the same! You also have the ability to build as a plank on frame, just like the wood boys do. I find this really a neat side to this model. If you used Photo-Shop to neg. out the print, print in black line drawing and used oil paints, wow, just might have to give a try.Rick
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#38
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Thanks Rick. This has been a trying design all total Still a lot to do. WARNING! the center "keel" to the upper knuckle has the cut outs for the crodss pieces on the wrong side. This can be corrected by simply turning the keel piece up sid down as this will have no effect on fit, but the numbers will be up side down too. I am correcting this on the print out now.
I hope th build goes well or you, Corey |
#39
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Rereading your posts, CT, I am unsure if you have designed a full hull or waterline only version. I have a great book on ironclads that shows the flat bottom of this series of vessels. So, in any event, a full hull will be easy for a non-naval guy to reproduce.
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Maj Charles Davenport, USAF (Ret) |
#40
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Sorry for the confusion. Yes, this will be a full hull model.
Actually, this model is designed in two halves. The fist half is the upper knuckle and the casement. (almost ready) This alone will make a dandy waterline model. The second halve is the lower knuckle and the hull, that will mate up easily with the upper section to form the full model. Even as a plank on frame hull, the planking will be relatively easy even for those who have not done it before because of the shape. Th casement parts are taking longer then I expected but I want them right. Hope to have things in order real soon. I had to take a short break and work on something I could finish in a few days. (instant gratification) so I mad a 1/250 scale model of the CSS Palmetto State. It is a water line model with far fewer details at that scale. I started a build thread for that too. I plan on offering it free through ecardmodels if chris is agreable. I need builders and pictures though. But now...on to this bigger model! CT |
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