|
|
|
#42
09-21-2009, 03:24 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
OK, on page 9, the keel part that has the numbers 7-13 on it, and on page 10, the part 14-20. Basically, the cross pieces have the slots running from the bottom up and the keel pieces should have the slots running from the top down. You would glue on the keels first, then the cross pieces (after a good dry fit). The parts mentioned have square ends and simply by flipping then so you can glue the un cut top down first will fix the problem with out requiring any changes or printing more parts. I am fixing the pages now. Thanks,
CT Ertz. 
|
|
#44
09-23-2009, 06:05 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
OK, the casement is coming along and will be a project in it's self. it will go something like this:
Glue the two ring bases together. They will have numbers around the starboard side and a couple of cross bars in red. Then carefully glue in the Inner walls of the casement, which will be the two ends and the starboard side only. It will be a little flimsy but not for long. Now glue on your formers, they will be like upside down ribs. The leg of the rib that is red is temporary and will be on the port side. There are numbers on the starboard ring for placement and lines on the port side to use as a guide. You will also have to glue on the box frames of the openings in the top deck as well. Everything is marked. Keep it square. Then glue on the outer armor bearing wall. Now fit on the top deck pieces. Trim and file as needed to get everything in line. Finally, remove from glass base and clip or cut off all of the red supports. The lowered the casement over the already completed deck. You will have noticed that the deck pieces when glued as marked leave a hollow. This is for the casement base ring, and it should sit right in. Now you are ready for laying the armor. Jpegs soon... What do you think? CT
|
|
#47
09-24-2009, 12:18 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Here is a diagram of the casement framing. It is now ready for the top deck to be placed on it, then the outer layer of card to hold the armor. All of the framers are 1mm, but the overhead beams are doubled, so in scale measurements they will look like 6"x12" beams.
All of the red will be clip away after the top deck and outer walls are added and all is dry and solid. It is hard to see but the starboard side, the ends, and a few "feet" on each port end have the inner wall in place.All of the wood colored stuff will be visible, all of the gray is "sandwiched" between inner and outer walls. As stated earlir, when this is done, it can be lowered onto the gun deck, there is a 1 card layer depression colored gray in the gun deck that the casement should slid right into. When everything is done, the ship can be planked and armored, forming a seamless line between the casement, knuckle and hull. Thats the plan!:D CT
|
|
#48
09-24-2009, 08:36 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Here is the casement jpegs. The first is of the ring with the inner wall attached. The second is with the ring, inner wall and the formers. Th next shows the casement with the ring, inner wall, formers, outerwall and top deck. The last is of the finishd casement, with the temoarrary red parts snipped away.
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
