Confederate Double Ender ironclad in 1/250 scale - Page 2

**ct ertz** · #11 07-19-2010, 01:09 PM

I tend to build heavy and use 110 pound for most of the parts. On extremely small parts or parts that are hard to get bent right I use lighter stock or even printer paper. Sometimes I even use old poster board scraps. But like I said, I build heavy. I do not know what others are using...

What Knife? Water park, then surgery? Good luck on that and I hoe it all works out for you.
CT

**Knife** · #12 07-20-2010, 05:15 PM

Back from the water park suffering from a light sunburn, it's time to get to work. The only problem I found during the build up is the "9" printed on the main deck is upside down compared to the other numbers, making it look like a "6". I only used one sheet of cardstock on the hull bottom, and three layers on the top deck. Not modifying the ribs, the side skirts had a little extra material above the main deck once installed. Probably would have been perfect if I had used a double layer of cardstock on the hull bottom.

Comparing the double-ender with the swamp monster, it looks like the double-ender would have used just as much if not more armour than the swamp monster just to protect one cannon.

**Knife** · #13 07-20-2010, 05:23 PM

After posting the pictures, I now realize that it's the "11" and "13" (blacked out on my model) that are printed upside down. Additionally, the side skirts are just a little too long, required a little trimming to get a butt joint where they join. I trimmed about 3 of the armour sections off one piece per side to get an even joint. I could have just overlapped the section, but that's not my way.

**ct ertz** · #14 07-20-2010, 06:12 PM

You are quite correct Knife, this double ender design would have used a lot of armor, and that may be one reason it was never fully completed. The original concept called for up to 6-8 inches of armor (most Confederate ironclads had 4, with a very few having 6 inches). It would have also used up four imported steam engines as well. The smaller profile would have given it added protection as well. The large caliber gun would not have been very effective on Union Monitors at any rate, as thier turret armor was over 10 inches thick. The ram, and possibly a spar torpedo would have been more effective.
Still, an interesting concept.

Your build is looking great! That gun deck would have been a crowded place, and moving the pivot from port to port would have been a relatively slow proses. But with a 15 degree angle of traverse at each of the gun ports it would have provided a pretty good range of fire.
CT

**Paperwarrior** · #15 07-20-2010, 06:56 PM

Great build, Knife!
That is a great looking fleet you have there.

CT, I think you have a winner there.

Jeff

**Knife** · #16 07-20-2010, 07:09 PM

Disregard the comments about upside down numbering, I just made the mistake of glueing the center section 180 degrees off center (duh). Lots of things going on right now so I guess I just got confused. One nice thing about this design--it could get out of trouble as quick as it could get into it.

Any idea how the crew got into this thing? Ladder down into the hull from one of the deck grates?

Tomorrow I get my knee operated on, so I will have an excuse to sit around the house and work on reforming the Navy of the Confederate States of America.

**ct ertz** · #17 07-20-2010, 07:58 PM

Well good luck on your surgery and I hope all goes well and painless (as possible) for you.

My guess is that the crew could have gone down the fore or aft deck hatch then up into the casemate through the shell room hatches. Or, possibly the wooden sections for and aft of the pilot house may have been hinged or removable, but it would have been a narrow fit. And the pilot house to may have been hinged but again, it may have been inconvenient. My guess is the easiest way would have been to simply duck through the gun ports and step onto the gun deck.

Again, as with the Dismal Swamp vessels, I left off any gun port shutters. This ship could have them, but what style (hinged or sliding) is up to debate.

Oh, and by the way, I love the railing on the pilot stand. I thought about adding a wheel but with such crouded space I do not know if it would have been practical for a pilot, Captain, and look out up on that platform. It may have been easier to watch from the pilot house and give orders to a tiller or wheel below (or separate tillers and wheels?) Anyhow, just speculations.

CT

**Dancooper** · #18 07-21-2010, 02:29 AM

Thanks for the file, CT, as soon as I've got heavier paper I'll go to work on it

**Knife** · #19 07-21-2010, 03:52 PM

I get my heavy weight paper from WalMart, just listed as White Card Stock, 110 weight. 150 sheets costs about $6. It's in the same location where they sell printer paper.

For CT: I think that the grates on the main deck should be redesigned as hatches. It seems to me that any rough weather would have waves breaking over the deck. A grate would let any water that gets onto the deck to pour right into the hull. It would be like putting portholes on a submarine.

**Squirrel** · #20 07-21-2010, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knife

I get my heavy weight paper from WalMart, just listed as White Card Stock, 110 weight. 150 sheets costs about $6. It's in the same location where they sell printer paper.

For CT: I think that the grates on the main deck should be redesigned as hatches. It seems to me that any rough weather would have waves breaking over the deck. A grate would let any water that gets onto the deck to pour right into the hull. It would be like putting portholes on a submarine.

i just bought the stuff! it is the exact same paper!