#1
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25%-50% off all Dave Graffam Models
From now through September 1st, you'll save 25%-50% off all Dave Graffam Models at Wargame Vault, RPGNow and DriveThruRPG. Check out my new tile kits (11 kits and counting), the new Country Brewery, Checkpoint, Cargo Pods and more.
Head on over to my catalog page: http://www.wargamevault.com/index.ph...turers_id=2985 And check out my latest release! http://davesgames.net/catalog-pavers-tile-kit-03.htm |
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#2
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I downloaded the free ones to try as I have never made a paper model. I think I made a couple of plastic kit planes when I was 12 or so (that was 43 yrs ago tho so I don't think I could claim that as "experience".) I do like fiddly crafty things tho. I have the:
1. models printed on copy paper and 2. have new craft knives and blades, access to scalpel blades and 3. a cutting mat. 4. I have scissors of various sizes and 5. some embossing tools and 6. a steel ruler and a plastic one. 7. Many new watercolor brushes and paint. 8. Felt pens of various colours and archiving quality. 9. A new small brayer I don't have glue as I am not sure what I need or would be best for paper? I would like to put a finish over a completed model, would Mat ModgePodge be good or would you recommend something else? (Hopefully something I can get in QLD, Australia.) I would like to stiffen the model with heavy card or light foamboard, recommendations for this? A glue specific for this? I really want the rest of the town of Rake's Corner but am also a little confused as to what models belong to that genre? Cheers Kym |
#3
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Hi Kym, Plain old Elmer's white glue works well for many and many others use Aileens Tacky Glue. Since this is your first model I'd suggest using Elmers,cause it's relatively inexpensive. A tip - use it sparingly. It has a high water content and can cause paper to swell. Also suggest you either print the model on cardstock as it will help keep the model strong, straight and true or, since you've already printed it on paper, laminate the paper to cardstock before cutting out any of the pieces. Let it dry under heavy weights,(like books) overnight. Do use foamcore for the base of the model.
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#4
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Hello Kym, I think elliott's advice is right on and should get you well along. You mentioned putting a finish on the completed model, my favorite is a clear acrylic spray.
I live in the US and the brand I like is called Krylon, it is available here in most craft, hardware and office supply type stores. I'm sure you can find something similar where you live. I have never used ModgePodge but if my memory serves me correctly, that is used for Decopodging is it not? That may work just fine. I suggest trying it out on a scrap or extra part. Hope this helps you! Bob
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"Don't curse it, use it to your advantage" |
#5
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Ok, I can get Krylon and try that. I am so looking forward to having a go. I might take the download to a Printery and get them to print it on card for my first ever attemptThanks
Kym |
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#6
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I got a bit excited and bought one of his bundled items for the town. Jeez I better get started!
Kym |
#7
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Thanks for picking up some of my stuff!
The Rake's Corner models are all fine for fantasy/medieval settings, if that's what you mean. About the only thing that's consistent across the Rake's Corner line is that they do not feature multiple skin options (the Rake's Corner models are all one-look-only), and many of them are based on shapes that I've used for earlier models. Other than that, they're just like all my other model kits. |
#8
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So I can pretty much shop to my hearts desire amongst your medieval/Ankh-Mopork style buildings and put them all together! Great, I love the look of them all.
Cheers Kym |
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