#31
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Dear Dave another way to fit hull parts is by placing them diagonally with deck details
around them. Just thinking out loud! Keep up the good work. |
#32
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If a camel is a horse designed by a committee then what is a PT boat deigned by a forum...a stern wheel submersible torpedo boat? Design it the way that pleases you in a size that pleases you and let the marketplace sort it out...just my 0,02.
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2.6% Neanderthal DNA YB (Currently pondering the next build) |
#33
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Whatever scale you design it at, Dave, i know the model will be superb.
Wyvern |
#34
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Quote:
I don't mind admitting that I don't know what Skegs and Strakes are? Are the strakes the pieces that run down the side folds in the Hull? I noticed those on many of these Hulls, but then when you look at the finished PT Boats, they are missing. My design calls for completing the entire outer Hull and then dropping in the skeleton subframe. Unlike other boat models that require you to "skin" the framework (one panel at a time). I think this will allow you to deal with all your seams a little better. My prototype shows you how I assembled the the Hull + Framework separately. (although the final frame will be more substantial in relation to its size) So, I see your point about adding front and rear parts to a center section, but with this type of assembly is there a benefit to having the Hull panels cut into more than two parts each? Papaace...I assume you are referring to only the deck...cutting it on an angle rather than straight across? With the deck I realized that there is a lot of superstructure to be put in place. After the designs are in place, I could easily find the most discrete location for a seam (or seams)... so I will leave that part till later. Yankeeboy...too right! if this was a community design, we might end up with a Pirate Galleon with Wings...and attached Starship nacelles! haha would you rather we argue about copyright rules and ebay sales? lol personally I would rather argue about where to put the Rudder! (and right now, you are thinking "I'll tell you where to put that rudder!") I will definitely design as it pleases me... but I am not a twenty year veteran of card modeling and I am not an experienced scale Boat builder, and I have no problem admitting this and asking for some input with the design stage. As I said, I have a Hull design that I think will work, but before I even got started I had two very important issues to deal with. What scale size should I opt for? and then, how do I cut up the pieces to make them fit on the page? I am a stubborn guy, and when I get a plan in my head, its tough to make me detour from it. But, since these are the guys that might purchase my model, its these guys that I want to try to please. And that means asking for their input before I go too far with my ideas. ...... Take a look at this pic see where I have seamed the lower Hullparts and side Hull Parts? Does this make sense or do you see any issues? I have also indicated how the deck overhang strips have to be cut too. I thought if the lower and side parts were seamed at the same point it might make that seam a lot more obvious... thats why I spearated the joins.
__________________
SUPPORT ME PLEASE: PaperModelShop Or, my models at ecardmodels: Dave'sCardCreations |
#35
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Looks like a good start. It will be interesting to watch this novel way of building the hull.
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#36
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I think it looks great, Dave. And offsetting the seams is a good idea.
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#37
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Quote:
Strakes are the small fold-like protrusions which often run under a hull for a portion (or in small boats, often all) of its' length, so yes, you are correct. Many PT class-vessels were constructed without strakes, and were in effect smooth hulled. Skegs protect projections below a hull, such as props and rudders, a common example being the shrouding and protective bracing seen around the propellers and rudders of landingcraft, and LST's. The idea behind suggesting a three-part hull was that it would (I thought) allow for more parts on fewer pages, and in part be similar to the way some of the smaller flotilla boats were actually constructed. However: I note with genuine pleasure your own solution in offsetting the relevant seams in the hull has achieved the same thing my suggestion had in mind. Yours is an innovative and very sound solution, which I both admire and thus defer to your design expertise. I should add that what little I know of shipbuilding was taught me by a long deceased Gt Uncle when I was in my early teens. Maritime terminology I learned from another uncle, a WW2 veteran. I am very interested to see how this design evolves, as I am admiring the process while I observe it. Kind and Respectful Regards AirDave, Uyraell. |
#38
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Quote:
and I don't have to split the Hull! "LOL Listen...I appreciate everyone's help and input. I could have just puttered away at this quietly by myself but I figured it would be more fun to get others involved. Who knows, I could be out of my depth and this project could screech to a halt. I don't mind admitting that. At this point I don't know if I can design a Boat kit... but it seems like a fun idea and I'm willing to give it a try. With the support of you guysit should go a lot easier. So...thanks ___________" Christ almighty, why do you have to be so mean spirited! Did you read what you posted? You said you wanted some suggestions, and I gave some, that's all. That's what you asked for, that's what you got. Incidentally, the place where you placed the seam looks absolutely great. The angle leads the eye along the hull nicely and having been someone who has a lot of boat building experience, I thought I would mention that. Geez Louise!! Sorry!! Also, making one page with a full sized hull is extremely simple, takes no effort whatsoever. So, yes, I will move one, which is probably what you meant. Bye. Have fun. |
#39
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Nice hull color Dave it is the same color as the pt-73 from mchale's navy i like the way it looks keep up the good job
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mcgarrett:book'em danno danny:really? is this gonna be your thing |
#40
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Go for it!
Looking forward to the result, A.D. And for me and my particular (peculiar?) desire to build everything in 1:48 scale (or there about):
64/48=1.333333333~ 8.5"*1.333333= 11.33333~" So, possibly one minor request - keep the parts within the center 8.25 inches of the paper please? I can deal with the length, just width-limited on paper stock... I know, it's silly!
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Regards, Robert In Work: Uhu02 Tinkerbell - [under Tapcho's thread] Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude Nobi Junkers SRF BETA build - BETA Build: Nobi's Junkers SRF 1:48 scale |
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