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  #11  
Old 09-21-2021, 07:24 AM
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I took forever to learn about getting lengths from the side-view. Wish I'd seen this eight years ago
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  #12  
Old 09-21-2021, 08:04 AM
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This is great Dave. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

Gary
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  #13  
Old 09-21-2021, 10:20 AM
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Once I have completed that first test build, I will most likely set the correct scale size (assuming I haven't done that already)...
I often test build a bigger model to get a good look at how parts fit and align,
but with some models, I will start out test building at the intended scale size because I have some concerns about buildability.

I like to keep certain subjects in a similar scale so they fit together well on the shelf.
In this case, I chose the Bricklin SV1 model as the guide for scale since these two sports cars are so similar in dimensions.



An important note is that Koolwheelz models are not designed to a specific scale.
In fact they vary a lot more than I would like, since the scale is generally ruled by the size of the Letter page.
To get all the parts on the page, I will sometimes ignore scale and reduce (or enlarge) all the parts to fit.
Obviously the bigger the vehicle, the more I have to reduce it to make it fit on the page!

I don't get too accurate matching scale...a quick measure of the Bricklin model showed me about 8.9cm overall length.
Since I knew that the DeLorean was slightly shorter in length, I adjusted the scale length to match. (8.7cm)
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  #14  
Old 09-21-2021, 10:21 AM
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At some point I have to add glue tabs to my model.
I may rough in quick glue tabs for the early test build(s), but at some point I have to figure out the proper dimensions and placement.

I "hand draw" the tabs (in Coreldraw - vector art) as I think they need to be.

I don't have a set rule or method...every Koolwheelz model is a bit different.
Some models have all the glue tabs on one part, whereas others may have alternating tabs across adjoining parts.

I try to make glue tabs as big as possible, but you have to keep in mind where a glue tab will end up.
Will it butt up to, or overlap another glue tab?
Will it cross a fold line on an adjoining part?
Will it be too thin or difficult to cut or fold?

Many of my Koolwheelz cars have separate side panels that attach to a central body strip.
So, three main parts make up the body shell.
More parts actually make it more visually obvious how everything fits together.
It also eliminates narrow cuts and glue tabs, or tricky cuts and folds.

But with this DeLorean...and its gull wing doors and small roof panel...I thought the molded look looked better.
I liked the idea of one main folded part for the body.

Melding the side parts to the roof part gave a clean smoother look at the top of the Gullwing doors.
But it created a very narrow pillar joint with a very narrow glue tab.

So on this rare occasion, I separated the glue tabs from the model...
made them into stand-alone backing tabs for the roof pillars that will need to be cut out, scored and folded.
This frees up the artwork visually, so you can easily see the gap in the roof pillars (on the page).
You can see where to cut cleanly.



...
Heres another thing that varies on all my models...the under chassis.
Many of my Koolwheelz vehicles have flat 2D wheels incorporated into the body sides.
Since Koolwheelz models are supposed to be as simple as possible, this makes sense to my design approach.

But some models/vehicles scream for 3D wheels, or wheels separated from the body.
In that case, I will try to incorporate an under-chassis to attach the wheels to.

I have a common approach...like what is used on this DeLorean...that I have used on many Koolwheelz models.
A simple box frame that supports the body and positions the wheels in board and under the body.

I start by referring back to my original side elevation drawing of the car model.
I visualize an interior structure that matches the car shape, supports at certain points to guaranty its position,
and fits snugly while allowing clearance for card thicknesses and glue tabs.
In Corel, I can create an inside contour matching the overall silhouette shape of the body.
I want to keep the design as simple as possible, it doesn't need to fill the entire body, but I try to create
somewhere to attach end plates to the box frame.
I usually incorporate a large central connector into the frame.
The width of the end plates and central spreader is based on the wheel/axle dimensions (as in my drawings).

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  #15  
Old 09-24-2021, 08:19 AM
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So I have a template worked out, done at least one test build, worked out any immediate kinks,
and added the necessary glue tabs...its time to start working out artwork and colouring.

Most vehicles have a solid base or background colour...
maybe even a texture that needs to go under the base colour or be part of it.

So I will usually create a "skin"...just a large enough panel of colour and/or texture that I can use as a "fill" in Corel.
In this case, with the DeLorean, I started with a gradient gray to match bare stainless steel.

In Corel any enclosed object can have a colour fill applied to it.
An enclosed object is just a set of vector points with lines connecting them.
A "group" of lines that looks like an enclosed area, is not, since the lines aren't actually connected at single vector points.
So steps must be taken to turn a set of lines or connecting objects into one single enclosed object.


For the side panel part of the DeLorean model, its actually three enclosed horizontal sections.
Each contacting at a fold line.
I did this so I could adjust(stretch) the height dimensions of each section individually,
but now that the part is properly adjusted, it needs to be one area that I can "fill" with the proper stainless steel colour.



In Corel, I can choose to apply a single solid colour fill to an area...
or create a gradient fill using whatever colour combination I desire.
This is actually a "vector" fill...not a raster/bitmap fill, so it isn't affected by resizing or any distortions.

As you see, my gradient just didn't have the correct stainless steel tone and I wasn't happy with it.
Even though metal surfaces generally reflect colour and can be any colour you like, a static application
like this calls for colours that are more easily recognized as a certain metal.

Corel can also apply bitmap fills to objects, using a ready made bitmap or photographic image.
If the raster image is large, high resolution with a lot of detail, it can add a large data size element to the artwork.
But there are ways around this, if the bitmap fills works better.


I had already created a brushed aluminum skin as vector art for another project.
With a little tweaking, and colour adjustment, the effect was almost like the brushed stainless steel skin of a DeLorean.
I turned the aluminum artwork into a bitmap image, reduced it in size, played with the sharpness and tone of the image...
and created this brushed steel panel that I would use for creating bitmap fills.



If you remember, I decided to connect the side panels of the car body, to the roof center panels...
this created one large body part.
I had to "weld" all the sections of the center strip together to make one long central strip
and then weld it to the welded side panels, producing one large outline part.

I've still got the original copy of all the separate sections and parts....
this single larger outline will only be used to create the colour/skin layer that will be my background.

In Corel, its a simple task of laying the outline object on the bitmap fill image,
and then I use the Corel "Shaping" tool to intersect the outline with the other object (in this case, the bitmap object).
Corel then creates a third object, which is the bitmap skin in the shape of the first object/outline.


This is my single bitmap object that will be a layer under other artwork.
Note: if I am concerned about data file size at this point: the new bitmap object contains
all the size, resolution and data of the original bitmap image...unless I resample it to a new bitmap.
This will drastically reduce the file/data size, but may also change the overall look, quality and resolution of the bitmap.
I have to be careful to adjust the bitmap save settings, or leave it alone.
In my case, the original bitmap skin was carefully sized and adjusted to be a reasonable data size, so all is good.
But had I used a high resolution photo (for example), I might need to resample the new bitmap.
Especially if I was applying multiples of these types of bitmap fills.


Now that I have the background skin colour in place, I can focus on other coloured areas and foreground artworks.
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  #16  
Old 10-02-2021, 12:33 PM
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Finally its time to fill in all the necessary colours and details.
I am struggling to decide what specifics might be of interest to you...?...
its all Coreldraw work from here, so if there is a specific question about how I create something?, just ask.

I use a combination of Corel solid and gradient colour fills for most of the colouring/texturing.
My goal is usually to maintain as much vector elements as possible...
but some things are more easily visualized with a photographic bitmap.
So I may blend the two.

As you can see in the first photo, I have applied the stainless steel overall texture (bitmap) as a background layer.
And, over top, more layers that are simple vector outlines.
I will apply various line colours and line thicknesses depending on whats need for each area/element of the model.

With all work, I am constantly thinking about the scale of the model, and how big or small things will be when printed.
Some things may stand out well on the computer screen, but are hardly visible when printed at real size.

I'm also aware of colour contrast...having learned that increased contrasts work better for inkjet printing, and small scale models.
So I will often go to extremes making lights lighter, and darks darker.

Referring to actual photos of a DeLorean, I lay out details first in vector art...for example the car's grille and headlight setup.
And I will create as much as possible in vector with colour fills, transparent overlays (shadows, etc), gradient fills, varying line thicknesses, etc
But the headlamp sealed beams I can sample from an actual photot (and save some time).
Because the final headlamp bitmap is so small, it will be small data size.

*I take the simple vector drawn outline of a headlamp, and lay it over the real photo of a headlamp...
resize the photo to fit the vector part, and then using Corel's shaping tool, I intersect the outline with the photo
and create a new bitmap that is just the headlamp.
I duplicate it until I have four small headlamp bitmaps, position them within the model artwork, then combine them into one larger bitmap.
The process will retain transparency around the headlamps, so it can be placed on a layer under, and on top of, other vector art.

In this screengrab, only the headlamps are bitmaps, everything else you can see in the image is vector art.



A close up shows you how I used some sampled parts from a real photo of the DeLorean taillights.
Because of the very small size in this area, I could have used ordinary colour fills and gradient effects to simulate the lenses of the tail lamps,
but I already had a photo close at hand, so I used it.
(just lazy I guess...but again, because the final tail lamp insert is so small, the bitmap will have a very small data size)

Once again, everything else you see is simple layered vector artwork (using various Corel techniques, like transparency levels).

If there is anything else you want explained (re Corel technique), don't hesitate to ask.



Once I have completed all artwork, there will be one more final build.

And if there are no further adjustments to be made, I will photograph the completed model.

With every Koolwheelz model, I need at least two photos for public display... and as thumbnails on the Download page...
which I will also use on the model sheet as sample images of the completed model.

Now that the model is completed, its time to lay out the Letter size Model Sheet...
all the model parts need to be arranged to fit on the page, with as much free space as possible between the parts.
Every Koolwheelz model sheet must also include the upper banner, title and sample photos,
along with my logo, copyright info, and any directions that need to be included.
I also try to include a simple assembly diagram if space allows, otherwise I may create a separate Assembly sheet.

Oh, and most importantly, all the necessary Fold Lines must be included on the model.
I try to add as many possible, wherever space allows, to show the builder where to score and crease the model for assembly.
I will vary the type of line, line thickness and colour, to help illustrate the proper assembly.

Finally, I publish the model sheet directly out of Coreldraw to a PDF.
I have Adobe Acrobat Pro installed on my system which can integrate itself directly into my graphics program,
and publishing to PDF becomes one of my saving options.
This also allows me to set my own parameters for the PDF save (to balance output quality and overall file size).
*I want the best quality of everything without breaking the bank on data size!
A typical Koolwheelz model sheet is usually less than 2mb in size, but some go a little more.

As I mentioned at the start of this post...if there are any questions about how to do things in Corel...or how I do things...just ask.
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  #17  
Old 10-02-2021, 12:49 PM
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Really interesting 😊
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  #18  
Old 10-02-2021, 01:00 PM
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Dave,

For me, it's about the process, not the "specifics". I don't have Corel (Inkscape and Gimp are for me because they are free), but reading and seeing how you do things is amazing.

This also gives a lot of insight into the amount of work and effort goes into each one of your models.

Thanks again for sharing.
Gary
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