#21
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Wing tip thinning technique noted for future reference.
The completed wing looks beautiful, as do the tail surfaces. Don |
#22
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Wonderful work, nicely detailed and clearly presented...thank you! Thanks for all the great building tips too!
Really attractive looking color scheme, the camo pattern looks great, Roman did a superb job of coloring this bird. Looking forward to seeing more soon! Cheers! Jim |
#23
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John great work and thanks a lot for the detailed thread about rigging.
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Mate Amargo models. |
#24
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What is great about this model, is that is it very complete. I usually have to make a cockpit interior. This model comes with a detailed interior, well designed to fit together accurately. But when I cut out the interior, I had to remember to retained tabs to put it all together (would be nice to have the tabs printed as this is easy to forget). And keep the tabs attached to the sides, so they wrap around the front and back. Otherwise the interior would be too wide to fit and not be flat to the sides. I also added some thin paper to hold the top curved parts together.
The tan part is the fuel tank (I think) that the pilot's seat is attached to (sitting on a fuel tank in a fabric covered plane - gutsy). Again I retained some tabs that fold inside the part. You can see all this below. The seat is built up and attached to the fuel tank. This model also includes the second color side of parts (like struts) with large color rectangles. These color rectangles have the outline of the part, which is not necessary or desired. Without the outline, you can glue the part anywhere. With the outline, you have to glue the part precisely. So I remove the outlines before I print out the model to make my life easier. You can see the control stick and it's second side (to be glued up next). With the control stick finished, I added a stand to make it easier to glue (you won't see the stand in the finished model). Then I built the gunner's seat - well, it's a seat of sorts. Now is the time to finish the front interior build. The front top section of the interior is really a narrow part, but it really need not be. I left some extra width. It's easier to assemble and glue that way, and the extra paper won't be seen anyway. Now just assemble everything. This is a great interior - well designed and plenty of detail. The gunner's station will be fully exposed so it's critical for the seat to be there. Multiple views below. Next is the fuselage.
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John peace thru light |
#25
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Coming along very nicely John! Not a Mig, but very well done!
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Ray Respect the Paper, RESPECT IT! GET OFF MY LAWN! |
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#26
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This is really looking great, John. Very nice cockpit.
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Currently building Heinkel Models/Ron Miller Authentic Nautilus. |
#27
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Excellent. And many useful tips for assembly.
Don |
#28
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Okay, now the fuselage. One reason I like WWI planes is the simple designs of the fuselages. Back in the day the planes had to be relatively simple to build - hence simple designs - hence easier papermodeling today.
The top of the fuselage is curves, the bottom flat. I want to start joining the fuselage about the midpoint so I add a small internal splice to one side. It's hard to start the joint by gluing up both sides at once, so do one at a time. Then glue it up the other side, beinng very careful to match it up as precisely as possible while the glue sets. Once the splice is started it is much easier to glue both sides at once. So I work toward the back to finish this joint in two splice sections. I find doing it all at once too difficult - much easier a bit at a time. Next I'll finish joining the fuselage together.
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John peace thru light |
#29
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This is your usual world-class work, John. And the explanations and photos are most helpful for anyone who wants to try this model (and for anyone who enjoys seeing skillful model building in action).
Don |
#30
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Very nice...I have this one on my hard drive, need to get to it someday.
Doug |
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