DD 886 u.s.s. Orleck design process

[FRD]

Geez!... I can't believe that I managed to "pull that off" but I did, I got the relief right at the water line where it will be least noticeable. it, "took some doing" and I have a "discrepancy" at the stern but that's an easy correction at a later date.

The advanced version has seventeen parts whereas this simplified version only has four.

Six ladders and this thing is ready for its case and that's where the real fun begins and you may even learn a useful "tool" to keep your models safe as you don't want your "pride" to be damaged after completion

[Michael Mash]

The craft of making auxillary boats covers a lot of different techniques.
Everyone has their own method. I like the idea of a keel, as you show us here.
I think I'll do some experimenting along that line.

[FRD]

This was my first attempt at a small boat Michael, being a, "purist" I have never seen any other designs so I was to, "wing it" and it seems to have worked out... it was like, "trying to model a jellybean"...

[FRD]

Well, I was mistaken, there are a total of EIGHT ladders, not, "six".

Not difficult other than placement.

[FRD]

Okay!, this thing is ready for its case!

[FRD]

To begin the case, I first want to place the title strip (name plate) inside the case as this case is meant to be handled as easily as the model itself while keeping the "thumbprint" of others off of your "delicate parts".

This title strip features the logo of my organization, the Dressler Design Group, I am proudly sponsored by Patriot Services Group who made it all possible, the title strip features their logo as well as it is a "collective effort".

The title strips are then placed face down on thin, 2" (50mm) two sided, transparent tape, commonly referred to as "cat tape" or, "carpet tape" and is widely available.

After placement, the residual tape is removed leaving only the strips, the paper being removed, exposing the second side of the tape to place the strip inside the case transparently but very, very securely (it's never coming out)

The Mylar is .005ml sheet but .01 is preferable but not as easy to come by, for additional cases I will be using .007, either way, it's difficult to see against a chroma-key green background.

In this example, the case is 3.5" x 7" (88.9mm x 177.8mm) and 24" (60.96cm) long.

The ends have a four-sided lip 3/8" (9.525mm) that provides an "inset", it is easily folded as you would paper but scoring VERY LIGHTLY, only enough to break the surface tension as it folds like cut glass, it takes very little to relieve the surface tension.

[FRD]

As with all of it. I use only my #11 excto for scoring as well as cutting.

[FRD]

What makes this case so remarkable is that it is very easy to make, very affordable and very effective.

For best results, the case should be absolutely no bigger than what is required for the model itself, you want this to add no more bulk than absolutely necessary as it is meant to be handled, not stationary.

I actually have produced these to fit so accurately as to actually touch the extremities of the model as this protects them.

Firstly, the two side tape is placed as well on the bottom of the model as it is CRITICAL that it is permanently affixed to the bottom of the case because any movement whatsoever inside the case will result in damage, the case will literally have to be cut away from the case to retrieve and repair the model.

Once the title strip and model are in place, "mechanical fasteners' ' (staples) are required because you will find that due to its properties, no adhesive will adhere to it.

It is a very rigid material so supporting the fasteners is not an issue.

In this example, the staples were then covered by a reflective, vinyl tape that will accent and facilitate the trim pieces that come next.

[Michael Mash]

Looks great in its display case.
Where will this be permanently displayed?

[FRD]

Michael, I don't think that it will be permanently displayed as its intent is mobility.