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  #21  
Old 09-18-2011, 03:11 PM
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murphyaa murphyaa is offline
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Pff. All this being worried about that part, and it unrolled without a problem.
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  #22  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:42 AM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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It would be nice if you posted a before and after pic. It is hard to be specific, also, it takes all of .05 seconds to unroll a part?
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  #23  
Old 09-22-2011, 02:26 PM
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murphyaa murphyaa is offline
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I'll try. My slow connection at home makes uploading pictures difficult. Even though I can check email, read the forum and do research, I still have to go to the public library if I want to upload anything larger than a 100kb's.

Question for Rhino users-rhino.jpg

The yellow highlighted part is the part in question. On the drawing, and unrolled. It fit perfectly on the beta build.
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  #24  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:00 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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O.K., that explains everything. I was trying to show you that in Post number 16. If you want to unfold the other parts, go to Curve/Curve from Objects/Duplicate Edge, when your done, join the sides and the top into one "Open Curve", proceed to the next edge, repeat the previous step, the put a straight line "Snapping to the Ends using "Osnap", the select, "Surface/Sweep 2 Rails, select the two duplicated edges and select the straight line for the "Profile Curve". Press O.K. when the Dialogue Box, up in where you type dimensions, you could select explode. Yes/No, and Label Yes/No, I would not select explode but Label will tell you were the edges go, and the Labels are easily deleted. They also make for the basis of good instructions. if you proceed with the method, you should easily be able to bang out 99% of the models you make, and increase their complexity exponentially. I make models in halves, then join them. It is easier to work this way.
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  #25  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:06 PM
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murphyaa murphyaa is offline
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That brings up a question. How do you delete the labels once you're done with them? I've tried clicking and pressing delete, but that deletes the part too.
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  #26  
Old 09-23-2011, 07:39 AM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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The labels are"Grouped" with the part, just go into "EDIT' and Press "UnGroup", and the labels themselves will be grouped together, you can delete them as a group, or, "Ungroup" them, move them out of the way, and use them for instructions like I did for Jr. (See Pic below). Rhino hands the information needed for instructions to you on a dish!

(I am completely re-doing that Hull in light of new data)




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  #27  
Old 09-23-2011, 01:07 PM
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murphyaa murphyaa is offline
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Cool, I'm starting to like Rhino more and more.
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  #28  
Old 09-23-2011, 03:42 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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I am not good at explaining myself, and if you could understand what I am trying to explain, you are a better man than I!
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:56 PM
Golden Bear Golden Bear is offline
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With some trepidation, I'll chime in with my own view.

As Gil said somewhere in there, I don't care about "unrolling" when doing the CAD model. I care about getting it to look "right" to me. I rely on the tools that Rhino gives me to get from model to flat.

Unroll is super for parts that are planes or warped planes. If you want to design and layout a surface curved in 2 dimensions you can pretty much make the decision whether you want to do the splitting yourself up front or take a chance on Rhino's "Squish" routine.

My choice of this depends on a lot of things, mostly based on experience. How big do I want the part to be? How good do I want the seams to be? I personally need to be thinking of what I want the part to look like on paper and where the interfaces are before I decide how I'm going to even design the part.

For instance, I see mentions of sweep rails here. To me, those are simple things and will result in nice unrollable surfaces. I work more with doubly curved surfaces, and intentionally, with the idea that I will get them to work when they are laid out. An example might be seen in my ventilators. There are several "tricks" in the design of them but in the end the "cone" part was laid out by splitting the thing in half and doing a "squish". I took the result (Oh, I put points on the interstices before doing the command), drew new edges between the points and then mirrored. I did a series of "trial and error" mirrors to get the angle correct between the two flats. In the end, it worked really, really well for these parts.

I guess that I don't really know what my point is here except that I myself wind up needing to try something on paper and go back to a tweak in Rhino before it works. Also take in mind that it has been pointed out before that I am not good at this, which I accept.

[e] Forgot to add this... Card/paper is not strictly a rollable surface. It can be forced into double curved surfaces, if handled carefully. Just part of the decision process during design.

Carl

Last edited by Golden Bear; 09-23-2011 at 07:30 PM.
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  #30  
Old 09-23-2011, 07:39 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golden Bear View Post
With some trepidation, I'll chime in with my own view.

As Gil said somewhere in there, I don't care about "unrolling" when doing the CAD model. I care about getting it to look "right" to me. I rely on the tools that Rhino gives me to get from model to flat.

Unroll is super for parts that are planes or warped planes. If you want to design and layout a surface curved in 2 dimensions you can pretty much make the decision whether you want to do the splitting yourself up front or take a chance on Rhino's "Squish" routine.

My choice of this depends on a lot of things, mostly based on experience. How big do I want the part to be? How good do I want the seams to be? I personally need to be thinking of what I want the part to look like on paper and where the interfaces are before I decide how I'm going to even design the part.

For instance, I see mentions of sweep rails here. To me, those are simple things and will result in nice unrollable surfaces. I work more with doubly curved surfaces, and intentionally, with the idea that I will get them to work when they are laid out. An example might be seen in my ventilators. There are several "tricks" in the design of them but in the end the "cone" part was laid out by splitting the thing in half and doing a "squish". I took the result (Oh, I put points on the interstices before doing the command), drew new edges between the points and then mirrored. I did a series of "trial and error" mirrors to get the angle correct between the two flats. In the end, it worked really, really well for these parts.

I guess that I don't really know what my point is here except that I myself wind up needing to try something on paper and go back to a tweak in Rhino before it works. Also take in mind that it has been pointed out before that I am not good at this, which I accept.

Carl
My God if you're not good at this, then none of us has a chance! I worked mostly with/in halves. I find it very interesting that in the end, you also just have to really try out different techniques and see what works, and ultimately, by printing the part out and seeing how it fits, if it comes together.

This might be a carry over from my "mold making, CNC" days, but I always noticed that the tool path ends up being a curve. It may wander and meander, it may go straight ( and be a straight line) but, the tool path always follows this path of the curve.

That is how I look at parts in Rhino in regards to paper. Since the end result is a flat parts tweaked as much as possible, how will the final lines look. This post offers not trick or technique, but sometimes, the thought process is just as important. Just as is taking a shape and seeing what Rhino will do to it, by trying out everything Rhino does.

I also think there is a big difference between the Homage that Goldenbear's models make to their subject, and the countless hours of experience that enable these wondrous creations, or deciding that you want to bang out 100's of models. I don't know if the 2 can go hand in hand. For some reason, I don't think they can.

Even if Gil or Goldenbear bang out a model in an hour. That model did not take an hour to design, it took all the prior experience gained that leads to the final outcome. Unless of course, they choose to make a box. Then again, I bet it would be one Helluva box!

Here's a tip! How do you get a 9' arc out of a 1" end mill?.............You divide the smaller diameter by the larger diameter, and tilt the head of the "milling machine" (why else would you need this) or other cutting machine by the sin of the quotient relative to the part which should have previously been located 90 degrees from the side of the FLAT bottomed tool. Simple, Eh! (works really well on parts less than an inch wide that have to fit onto a 9' radius).
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