Lamination Question

[Glendwr]

This post is cross-referenced on the Model Ship World and Paper Modelers sites.

Hi, first time poster here. For Christmas I received from my Amazon.com wishlist a book by Edwin Leaf entitled: Ship Modeling from Scratch: Tips and Techniques for Building Without Kits. I have always wanted to build wooden ship models, but the more I looked into it, the more it seemed to be expensive, kits were expensive, woodworking tools expensive, etc. Then I found Model Ship World and Paper Modelers and find that paper and cardstock is much more affordable and potentially as satisfying. I played around with several techniques learned on these forums, made a lot of mistakes, bought new tools, new glue, made some more mistakes, and now have some questions.

My goal is to make the Brockley Combe from the drawings in Leaf’s book from scratch. Here are some links to some pics:

A historical photograph:
WRECK SITE

A model that someone else made:
DSC_0002+copy.JPG (image)

I am using cardstock and 3 x 5 index cards for most of my materials. I like the 3 x 5 index cards because they are cheap and already have little lines drawn on them for to assist with measuring and cutting. I just want to increase their strength. I read in Leaf’s book and on several sites that you can laminate two 3 X 5 cards together for a stronger card. Naturally I used Elmer’s glue (it is what I had on hand) first. As predicted the cards warped horribly.

My current technique is to brush on UHU glue evenly onto one card, place the other card on top and the press down on a flat surface (I prefer Jane’s Fighting Ships as a suitably heavy weight). After drying they are still sort of warped, so after reading another post online, I actually ironed the cards with my wife’s clothes iron (with her permission and under her supervision). This is supposed to melt the UHU glue and help flatten the surface again. I then press them flat under my Jane’s Fighting Ships book again. This has helped a bit, but they are still sort of warped.

I think this technique will probably work out for me, but I thought I would ask and see if any of you have any better ideas on how to laminate cardstock together for strength and flatness. Also, am I being too obsessed with getting perfectly flat cards?

Thank you


Jon Benignus

[GreMir]

Jon,
First, welcome to the forum

To answer your question - no, you are not too obsessed as any warpage on the index card will be even more pronounced on the model itself. It will also complicate your work as no two cards will be exactly the same due to this warpage.
I would suggest using other glue to laminate them. In my builds, when I neeed to laminate cardstock, I use Beacon's 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue. Fast and strong bond and there is no warpage when used.
Here is more info 3-IN-1 ADVANCED CRAFT GLUE Adhesive Product Details
Glue is readily available Michael's or JoAnn stores.

[Glendwr]

Originally Posted by GreMir

Jon,
I use Beacon's 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue. Fast and strong bond and there is no warpage when used.
Here is more info 3-IN-1 ADVANCED CRAFT GLUE Adhesive Product Details
Glue is readily available Michael's or JoAnn stores.

How do you apply Beacon's 3-in-1 glue? Do you use a brush or simply the applicator nozzle? Since it is quick dry glue do you have to rush to place and adjust the 2nd card to the first before the glue dries? And finally, do you need to flatten the cards under books?

Thank you for your quick reply.

Jon Benignus

[GreMir]

Jon,
Applicator nozzle works perfect.
Glue grabs fast, but you don't have to rush with applying parts and you shouldn't have any problems with 3x5 index cards. There is no need to stuck them under your copy of Jane's, unless you think that it would be beneficial to assure that glue grabbed uniformly on the entire surface - I usually just run palm of my hand over the part.
Some people also use 3M (or similiar) spray glues to laminate parts, but I never tried it myself.

[bagpiper]

Hey guys not sure if this would help but thought I would throw it out there anyway. I don't know if card has a random fiber layout or if it is in line with the card. So I was thinking, have you tried gluing one card long ways and the other one upright. Perhaps the fiber in the card would cross against each other and help prevent the warp - such as in plywood with the cross grain. You would end up with a 3 x 3 square but if it works it would at least be flat.

Again not sure if this is even an option but thought it worth mentioning.

Cheers
Jim

[Fishcarver]

Jon:

I use "YES" All-purpose stick-flat glue, applied with a brush. "Yes" is basically bookbinder's paste, and is available thru Dick Blick and Art Supplie online. What Mike suggests is probably similar.
Info here:
ArtSuppliesOnline.com - Yes Paste
Jim

[Zathros]

When glue is applied it sets off a cascade of events that lead to warping. This is true in all types of mold, fiberglass, etc. types of works. I take flat stock that is to be laminated and place in under heavy books. I don't go near Elmers glue unless I wish to dissolve parts. I have not had that need yet. Heavy books, that are still valued, can be saved from ruin by using plastic wrap as a barrier. The added benefit is that the weight causes the glue to penetrate further, almost like cold molding. Paper glue does not stick to plastic. You will also find that this produces much better lamination. Scoring (providing the necessary relief) on the inside of a bend also allows the pieces to be folded at 90 degrees without much accrued intolerance or delamination. I prefer UHU glue myself.

[SCEtoAUX]

Another method would be to use a spray adhesive like 3M or Duro.

[mbauer]

Elmers makes a craft spray glue that works great. Can be used as a permanet or temporary stickem.

mike

[temejin]

Try photographic drymount tissue and a houshold iron at 180 deg for 2 minutes, no mess, no warping, no delamination. Just buy the permanent bond not the repositionable tissue.