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  #11  
Old 09-16-2012, 04:14 PM
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Bionic Modeler Bionic Modeler is offline
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Great start. Looks like you are off and running
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  #12  
Old 09-16-2012, 06:22 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetsailor1981 View Post
Now for a couple of questions.
First. I have been using aline's brand of glues (Sample set from Walmart) is there a way to thin the glue or can I use CA, or is there some other glue which is good?
Second. How can I get smooth cuts from straight to curves. On my straight cuts I use a metal T-bar made for sanding large areas on model planes. works like a straight edge but keeps my fingers out of the way. I have been following the 1/6 scale Ferrari builds his cuts look like a laser cut jut and my cuts look like I used a chainsaw. I need help. Please Thanks Gregg
Hi Gregg,

The aleene's sample glue packs are worthless. I tried them once, couldn't believe how bad they worked. Gave up on Aleenes tacky glue because of the sample pack for years!

The something happened to the brand I was using, either the formula or quality control went to the garbage dump fast.

I tried a full size bottle of Aleenes tacky glue. What a difference. Now I understand why so many here like it. It works and works very well!

Cutting is a learned technique.

For long straight cuts I use a "quilting ruler" (thick plastic type found in the sewing section; the thickness guides my blade quite well). I use a hobby knife sometimes, mostly rely on a rotary cutter found in the sewing section.

I did apply spray glue to the back of the quilting ruler sticking some non-slip mat (drawer liner) to the back. It grips and doesn't move around, so you don't have to worry about it slipping.

The hobby knife (xacto, fiskars) is used to cut inisde circles, places where a rotary blade won't fit.

For circle cuts I use a pair of very sharp scissors.

Not just one tool for everything, many different ones for different areas to be cut.

Forgot to mention about pre-shaping the part before you use it. Paper tubes and cones need preshaped. I use a dowel and roll the parts around it to form a pre-curved shape. If you use cardstock for your builds, it wants to lay flat unless you pre-roll it. Lots of ways to acomplish the shaping, some use the back of a mouse pad and wood dowel, some use their hand and form over the muscle in the thigh.

The pre-shaping helps with the gaps as the part more naturally wants to fit the curved area.

Hope this helps.

Mike

Last edited by mbauer; 09-16-2012 at 06:49 PM.
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2012, 02:41 AM
kahoody kahoody is offline
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Congrats! Your start in papermodelling and your questions mirror mine - I've just been too shy to ask them! all the best!
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2012, 12:50 AM
fleetsailor1981 fleetsailor1981 is offline
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Guys thanks for all of the advice. I needed some inspiration to get back into modeling, I sort of fell into depression after my wife passed away in July of 2009, I had been introduced to paper modeling in 03 by Dennis Brooks a member of the model boat club that we were in. He made beautiful paper models but the few I tried looked awful. My wife knowing that I loved WWI aircraft bought me the Fiddler’s Green CD and like a lot of rookies I printed every one of them. (they are still in the folder that I put them in back in 04) I cut out one of the Fokker Tri planes (Kempf) about 90% trimmed. A few months ago I started trying to get motivated again and back into modeling (Both plastic and paper). The sub was my first try after stopping in 06. Next is the F105 from I believe Paragon followed by their F86 these are both low part count kits which I feel I can work my way through, then my dream model a 1/24 Ferrari 312pb which I want to enlarge to 1/12 scale. Milan Paulus with his Ferraris, Doris with her HMS Victory & Sovereign of the Seas, and others with armor and aircraft have sparked the fires in me again and I hope to keep them going. I will turn 50 this year so still have a long way to go. So once again thanks for giving me something to look forward to when I get off work.
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