A few questions for new modeler

[fleetsailor1981]

well after many bad starts i have finaly finnished a paper model, it is by no means a good job because there are gaps in the joints and part of the conning tower did not line up the way it should have, but I now known how to prevent some ov the problems. As I said this is the first of many attempts at building a paper model. (somewhere around 20 ) like many other first timers I chose models way over my ability, and also printed out loads of free kits (about 800 pages worth) all before finding out about A4 size paper so I have about 800 sheets of scratch paper. Oh well live and learn. I will post some photos later when I figure out how of my model (one of Olli's Easy to Build models Acula)
Now for a couple of questions.
First. I have been using aline's brand of glues (Sample set from Walmart) is there a way to thin the glue or can I use CA, or is there some other glue which is good?
Second. How can I get smooth cuts from straight to curves. On my straight cuts I use a metal T-bar made for sanding large areas on model planes. works like a straight edge but keeps my fingers out of the way. I have been following the 1/6 scale Ferrari builds his cuts look like a laser cut jut and my cuts look like I used a chainsaw. I need help. Please Thanks Gregg

[Miles Linnabery]

Dear Gregg:
How sharp is your Knife? the of saw from the woodcarvers also works here with cardstock, If you can shave withit you can cut with it other wise sharpen it. also a good pair of sissors workswell on curves I like fiskers 4 inch micropoint with their sharpener. Post pictures so we can see the problems also. Try using less glue and spread it over the tab.
Hope this helps,
MILES

[Bionic Modeler]

Also CA glue (super glue) comes in different formulations. Make sure that paper is listed in it's applications. If not it won't stick. However it will work to strengthen thin parts. Also be very careful when using it as it tends to bleed a lot and can ruin the printed part if you are to generous.

A sharp blade is essential for clean cuts. I sharpen my own but for a newbee I recommend changing the blade regularly especially if you are cutting formers. Then get a very fine grit sharpening stone and learn to sharpen your own.

[Tim Crowe]

I mainly use any generic white glue I can find. Usually by in litre bottles and decant it into a smaller bottle.I also use a bit of CA. Thick, medium and runny, depending on application. Finally a bit of UHU clear glue for glazing.

Smooth cuts - a really sharp blade. Straight cuts, always use a metal ruler to guide the blade. Large curves I do free-hand. Really small circles and curves I chisel cut.

A lot of what you are after will come with experience and time. I find every build is a learning curve.

Tim

[Jim Nunn]

I use Gap filling Ca glue to glue wire parts to paper. Thin CA is good to stiffen up tiny parts so that they don't fall apart. My preference in glues is Elmer's Glue-All not the old formula the new formula which is sometimes marked as "New Stronger Formula". I like it because it is thinner then Aleene's Tacky Glue. You can thin some PVA glues with water but watch out some will turn into silly putty when you add water. Keep in mind PVA glues are like CA the less you use the faster it dries. Also it helps to apply PVA glue to booth sides of the joining parts.

Fine cutting comes with practice I use scalpels which are cheaper then hobby blades and I can easily trim a straight cut by .01 inch. Round cuts require a very good set of scissors, the Fiskars Softouch Micro-Tip scissors are highly recommended. I also use sanding sticks that I make with 200 and 600 grit sand paper to sand the part round. Lastly I use a set of 4X magnifiers.

Magnifiers

http://www.harborfreight.com/head-strap-magnifier-with-work-light-95890.html


Fiskars Micro-tip
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76/ref=s9_al_bw_g86_ir06?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_ s=center-6&pf_rd_r=06M6CPFXDRVJQN0WP043&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p =1272378162&pf_rd_i=2400261011

Jim Nunn

[Darwin]

Gregg, just use water to thin Ailene's glue...I think all of those glues are water-based. As a word of precaution, a little bit of water goes a looooong way as a thinner....very little is needed to thin the glue. Depending on where you live, it might be better to use distilled water rather than tap water.

[SCEtoAUX]

Cutting curves and circles by hand takes practice. Try leaving the tip of the blade in the paper then rotate the paper to continue the cut. Take your time. Pay heed to the advice about using sharp blades. That always helps. The scissors mentioned work too.

CA glue will sometimes discolor the graphics so be careful when using it.

[Bionic Modeler]

I believe Ailees tacky glue is best. It won't wet your work and it can be rolled off the paper if you get any on the printed surface. Also if you get any on your fingers you can roll them together a few times and it comes right off so you don't get glue on your model. Plus if if you get it all over your cutting mat just soak it in the tub and it melts off. I have tried all the glues mentioned and this is my preference. I haven't found anything it won't stick to yet, even canopies.

Oh yeah, for those small really curved parts I use curved cuticle sheers.

[Zakopious]

The Aileens glues tend to be thick.
Rather than trying to thin with water, use Elmer's White Glue which is already thin.

I use Ailleens for edge to edge gluing.
Elmer's for flat surfaces, such as tabs.
Water resistant UHU glue for thin struts which will be touched up with water based acrylic paint.
UHU glue is also good for gluing plastic prop disks to pins for airplanes.

[fleetsailor1981]

Thanks guys for the advice, I will try to add photos to this post of the tools I am using and the model I built. I know about the gaps in the conning tower nd when I try this kit again I am gping to add so taps on which to rest the upper parts.