PaperModelers.com

Go Back   PaperModelers.com > Papermodelers' Bar and Grill > First Cuts; A Lounge

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-09-2009, 09:00 AM
TXVanguard TXVanguard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 26
Total Downloaded: 0
Lines or no lines

In general, should I try to cut the parts of a model so the edge lines are included or not included?
Reply With Quote
Google Adsense
  #2  
Old 04-09-2009, 09:04 AM
dansls1's Avatar
dansls1 dansls1 is offline
Aviation Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mt. Prospect, IL
Posts: 3,271
Total Downloaded: 0
Send a message via Yahoo to dansls1
In general, I believe the answer is it will depend on the kit. For computer designed kits, I would say that the middle of the edge line would be the optimum cut line. Otherwise it will often depend on the designer.
__________________
-Dan
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-09-2009, 09:05 AM
rickstef's Avatar
rickstef rickstef is offline
ETERNAL ADMINISTRATOR
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lake Wales, Florida
Posts: 9,776
Total Downloaded: 683.37 MB
Send a message via Yahoo to rickstef Send a message via Skype™ to rickstef
there are 3 schools of thought on this subject

1. Cut on the outside of the line
it will give you some extra paper, but you could trim it off to fit

2. Cut in the middle of the line
this will be very close to what the designer had in mind when he made the model

3. Cut on the inside of the line
this will be the most tricky, as you will not have any room for error. not too many designers I know use this method in designing their models
__________________
"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors"
International Paper Model Convention Blog
http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/
"The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-09-2009, 11:25 AM
THE DC's Avatar
THE DC THE DC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: On a small planet orbiting a yellow star in a galaxy named after a candybar.
Posts: 2,352
Total Downloaded: 3.68 GB
Excellent feedback, but remeber....

Good feedback there. I should add not to stand in line!


Seriously, when possible, try test fitting parts. This is helpful not only for fit, but also to consider what the final product will look like.

Sometimes you can measure the loss of paper with a replacement strip and get better visual effect. For example if working with a top piece, like if the decking of a hull, it would fit well with some of the line remaining but look unrealistic. A thin strip of paper may be close to the width of the line but add a perspective of realism of fitting plating that would not have worked with the black [cut me here] line.

This extra strip process can also offer extra support to the original model when the piece your attaching has to bear more weight.

I just did this on a kit with good results, but unfortunately it was done tightly enough that its not visible! I'll send a pic next time I do it, if you'd like?


Cheers!


The DC
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-10-2009, 12:32 AM
Art Deco's Avatar
Art Deco Art Deco is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,382
Total Downloaded: 0
To my thinking, each of the three "where to cut" schools of thought has a significant drawback ...

Cut on the outside of the line - most likely what the designer intended (if they even thought about it), but results in each part being outlined in black, which detracts from the appearance of the model.

Cut on the inside of the line - no black lines, but the part will possibly be too small, as most of us (including, probably, the designer) intuitively consider an outline to be the outer edge of an object, not part of the space surrounding it. If every part is one pixel narrower on each side, fit problems can rapidly accumulate (at 150 dpi, a paper thickness is something like 1.5 pixels)

Cut down the center of the line - the worst of both worlds, you get parts outlined with fine black lines, and every part is possibly one pixel too narrow in every dimension.


The basic problem with outlines is that the designer is asking the builder to separate three fields into two pieces. The three fields are (1) the part, (2) the paper, and (3) the black area between the two. The black line is inescapably too wide, because printers cannot print a line narrower than one pixel, and even if they could, the line must be easily visible to the human eye (including middle-aged eyes ...)

To me the solution seems obvious: don't use outlines!

Use edges!

With edges, you have only two fields to separate, the part, and the paper. The cutting is intuitive: you simply cut along the edge of the part. No questions. No black lines on the model. Parts are the size the designer intended.

But what if the part is light in color? The edge will be hard to see if the contrast is not high with the surrounding paper.

No problem. In that case, the designer simply changes the color of the surrounding paper, either by placing the part inside a grey box, or adding a dark "cloud" around the light edge of the part. Either way, the builder is still separating two fields, instead of trying to figure out how to separate three.

Examples below:
- part with no outline (the edge is clear)
- light-colored part in a high-contrast gray box
- a dark "cloud" helping to to make part of an edge more clear
Attached Thumbnails
Lines or no lines-no-outlines.jpg  
Reply With Quote
Google Adsense
  #6  
Old 04-11-2009, 07:53 PM
whulsey's Avatar
whulsey whulsey is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Miami, AZ
Posts: 8,843
Total Downloaded: 65.34 MB
Elegant solution there, Art Deco.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-11-2009, 08:28 PM
Papercut's Avatar
Papercut Papercut is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,019
Total Downloaded: 0
I agree with all the above, but I tend to leave the black line on the part. The only time I see this being a real problem is in the construction of a gloss model. Since most of what I build is military, primarily ships, the thin black line is not really a problem.. I too know full well cutting too much results in a part too small for the area it is to attach to. I believe this is one of those area of paper modeling that is up to the builder!:DRick
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-12-2009, 01:41 AM
Lex's Avatar
Lex Lex is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: London, Britannia
Posts: 1,691
Total Downloaded: 70.75 MB
Send a message via MSN to Lex
I normally go down the middle, that way a half-pixel line is almost invisible, and some models place their cuts on panel lines which nicely gets rid of the problem. I tried what's said above with my first design and got negative feedback because one of the testbuilders have trouble identifying the edge. Now I use a lighter grey color for my edges when I design to make it less visible, but your idea of having a dark box around a lighter part is ingenius!
__________________
"The world is big"
On hold: Fuyuzuki, Zao, Zara, Akizuki,
Past works: XP55 Ascender, CA Ibuki, Seafang F32, IS-3, Spitfire V, J-20
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-12-2009, 02:05 AM
Tim Crowe's Avatar
Tim Crowe Tim Crowe is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Wellingborough, U.K.
Posts: 4,719
Total Downloaded: 316.45 MB
I think it's more easy to take off then to add back on

Tim
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-14-2009, 10:59 AM
THE DC's Avatar
THE DC THE DC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: On a small planet orbiting a yellow star in a galaxy named after a candybar.
Posts: 2,352
Total Downloaded: 3.68 GB
Pending the model

The model plays an important role here. A wooden ship deck can look enhanced by removing the line and reinforcing any gap with a similarly colored paper; this adds texture and dimension. I like to trace planking anyway to enhance texture, if the scale is large enough.

On some kits, the edges are supposed to be seamless wholes, like the hull of a an advanced spaceship or piece of curved, tempered metal. You have to lose the line for certain or you have something where there should be nothing [a real problem in Congress, but that’s another thread].

I'd rather experiment with shading than leaving the line, when I’m trying to pronounce the difference between two points, even employing wear and weathering techniques. It looks too two dimensional for me to just have a straight line on a model, unless it was supposed to be a painted feature. I try to black lines them as much as possible. This is why I always advocate pre-fitting. It the designer meant the line to be part of the edge, you have to fill a gap with spare or even creative seeming.

Much of it depends on what you wanting to make and how you want it to appear in the end. The more detailed and seamless will take more time and creative shaping.


Cheers,


The DC
Reply With Quote
Google Adsense
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Parts of this site powered by vBulletin Mods & Addons from DragonByte Technologies Ltd. (Details)
Copyright © 2007-2023, PaperModelers.com